What LSP to use after Megs #7 and M80?

spike

spike

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I will be working on an '82 Mercedes Benz, and I want to bring the poor oxidized paint back to life. I will be using Mike P's method of saturating the paint with Megs #7, then using M80 speed glaze by hand (too afraid to use my Flex...don't want to burn through the paint accidentally). I'm looking for the most durable LSP to use after the M07 and M80 that would be compatible with this system. I would like to keep the car looking great for as long as possible before the paint starts to re-oxidize and look lousy.

Any suggestions from ones with experience with single-stage paint?

:cool:
 
spike said:
I will be working on an '82 Mercedes Benz, and I want to bring the poor oxidized paint back to life. I will be using Mike P's method of saturating the paint with Megs #7, then using M80 speed glaze by hand (too afraid to use my Flex...don't want to burn through the paint accidentally). I'm looking for the most durable LSP to use after the M07 and M80 that would be compatible with this system. I would like to keep the car looking great for as long as possible before the paint starts to re-oxidize and look lousy.

Any suggestions from ones with experience with single-stage paint?
m80
:cool:
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If the paint is acceptable, in your professional opinion, after the initial saturation with #7, and the light-polishing/oils-depositing/glossing effect of #80, I'll suggest the use of #26 as the LSP....to stay within the "family".

Side Note:
I have applied another coat #7 after the polishing steps of: either/and #83/#80 were completed, to add more "oils" to the paint, before the application of #26 as the LSP.

Just a couple of ideas for your consideration.

BTW: M80 is :cool:...IMO

:)

Bob
 
#7 and #26 is my favorite combo .. give it a go.
 
If you wanna stick with Megs #26 YTW or for sealants NXT Tech Wax 2.0, Ultimate Wax, and M21 which are all 100% synthetic sealants.
 
I am gonna differ. The polishing oils in #7 and 80 tend to make the durability of most LSP's very weak. If durability is an issue I would go with a LSP that is kinda high in solvents such as 845. That will give you a durable protection layer. If looks are the only concern, I usually reach for souveran or Dodo Rainforest Rub on SS paints because the oily nature of theae waxes really help add gloss.
 
what color is the car? just letting you know those older cars usualy have more paint on them compared to cars of this era, so i doubt you will eat through the paint. will get more gloss anyways and be faster just tape off all hard edges and you will be fine, me personally i would have used m7 to put oils back into paint then use m105 then m205 and then do a alcohol wipe down and apply the LSP of choice, for durability i would use collinite 845,meguiars m16,wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant/dp poli-coat. i have single stage paint on my toyota and i get some awesome gloss using m205/megs #9 swirl remover every 6 months or so then apply a nice coat of 845 or WGDGPS then top the wgdgps with 845 or top the 845 with some megs 16 then let it sit for 12 hours after wiping off haze then do a nice quick layer of xmt360 spray wax and looks so damn glossy which as you know is hard to get with white.i have not tried megs 26 but i do know 845 is some really really great wax that can compete with the really high end waxes at a turtle wax price, really beats most waxes hands down in terms of durability.m16 adds some awesome shine along with some 845 as its low in solvent compared to 845 so its a great topper but i go overboard sometimes as i enjoy waxing, even more now that i have a DA.another reason why i dont want to opti-coat my car..however, i really would just take the flex to the paint. if your worried about burning through use a different machine such as a DA, of course everyone worry's about burning through but wont stop me from picking one up knowing the results i can achieve and the speed at which i can get it done.time = money...minds well take the paint to its maximum potential and really floor your client of how well it turned out from a oxidized mess to a shiney showroom ready car.
 
Thanks everyone for your advice. I have 845, so I'll definitely use it as my LSP. The car is a dark blue, and the owner believes that it has been re-painted. To me the paint job looks cheap and crappy...that's why I want to do all the work by hand. And since I don't have a paint thickness gauge, I want to be safe...

Here's a pic:

82_Benz_before.JPG


You can totally see that the owner doesn't really know how to take care of his car. There is a ton of dried, caked-on old wax everywhere, and lots of cleaning up to do with it. But if I can just bring the paint back to life, he will be very happy...
 
Spike,
I've used Mike's #7 paint restoration process on my original '87 El Camino and can't praise it enough. I use Meg's NXT as the base sealant on my hood since the paint on that panel is extremely sensitive to streaking. On other panels and as a topper for the hood, I've used Meguiar's #26, Meguiar's Gold Class, 845, Optimum Spray Wax and Dodo Juice double coat. It's a pick-em as far as results. All have worked great, but I can't speak for longevity since it's a garage queen from fall to spring.

Bill
 
How difficult is it to wipe off m80? I currently used #7 and than m80 and it was very difficult to wipe off. Did I let it dry for too long or not enough? Using by hand and I feel like it was impossible to wipe off the m80
 
Randy9 said:
How difficult is it to wipe off m80? I currently used #7 and than m80 and it was very difficult to wipe off. Did I let it dry for too long or not enough? Using by hand and I feel like it was impossible to wipe off the m80
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Those two products you mentioned are supposed to be removed wet. Work a small, wipe the area and repeat. If either dry, they can be difficult to remove. If some does dry on you just go over the area with some wet product then remove immediately.
 
Dr Oldz said:
Those two products you mentioned are supposed to be removed wet. Work a small, wipe the area and repeat. If either dry, they can be difficult to remove. If some does dry on you just go over the area with some wet product then remove immediately.
Click to expand...

+1
 
spike said:
Thanks everyone for your advice. I have 845, so I'll definitely use it as my LSP. The car is a dark blue, and the owner believes that it has been re-painted. To me the paint job looks cheap and crappy...that's why I want to do all the work by hand. And since I don't have a paint thickness gauge, I want to be safe...

Here's a pic:

82_Benz_before.JPG


You can totally see that the owner doesn't really know how to take care of his car. There is a ton of dried, caked-on old wax everywhere, and lots of cleaning up to do with it. But if I can just bring the paint back to life, he will be very happy...
Click to expand...

MAN Spike that thing looks rough! It looks like overspray all over the bottom of the window trim.

Might want to follow your plan with M21 as it's a good match over what you've already planned. Of course M26 is a good option and can be added right away, better yet if you let the 21 cure overnight. I haven't used 845 yet (for some stupid reason) but it is probably the best kept secret in wax today. Seems to be more durable than most and would likely make that older paint look about as good as it's gonna' get.
 
My El Camino has very thin, very fragile 27 year-old lacquer. Ever since I learned of Mike's SS paint restoration process, I've done the procedure every year for the last 3 years. I've applied the M07 by hand, using a mf cloth, and the M80 by rotary with a Meguiar's yellow pad. I've never been afraid of removing too much paint, except for peaks and ridges that were nearly buffed through already from the previous rotary work with a wool pad. I certainly wouldn't hesitate to machine polish with your Flex and M80. Working it in well by machine will make M80 nearly effortless to remove.

Bill
 
#7 and #80 are both rich in Meguiar's TS polishing oils. I actually have an article on this topic...


Which products need to dry – The Car Wax Mentality



Two excerpts from the above article...



Mike Phillips said:
Apply, work and remove
Once you are finished removing the defects you can and should remove the product. The benefit from using these types of correction and polishing products is created when these products are worked against the finish. Once you're finished with removing defects on a panel, you're finished with the product... wipe it off...
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Mike Phillips said:
Like dissolves like…
If by chance you ever find you’re self in a position where you or someone you know has let a non-drying product dry and the residue is now like trying to remove dried concrete of your car’s paint, you can usually remove the dried residue using an old technique, based upon the idea that like dissolves like, that is if you have let a compound dry on the paint and now you find it difficult to remove, re-apply the compound using it heavy or wet and the wetness of the product, because it’s compatible with the dried residue will often times re-wet it enough to make wipe-off easier.
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:)
 
cardaddy said:
MAN Spike that thing looks rough! It looks like overspray all over the bottom of the window trim.

Might want to follow your plan with M21 as it's a good match over what you've already planned. Of course M26 is a good option and can be added right away, better yet if you let the 21 cure overnight. I haven't used 845 yet (for some stupid reason) but it is probably the best kept secret in wax today. Seems to be more durable than most and would likely make that older paint look about as good as it's gonna' get.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is as bad as it looks. I was trying to help a friend out with his Benz, and also learn about single-stage paint and how to work with it (I'm just a rookie - detailing is just a hobby). Yes, M80 and M07 need to be wiped off wet...I found that out the hard way...

Never got a chance to work on his car for him, though...maybe I'll have another project like this one sometime...
 
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