What makes MF get a bit crunchy over time

I use this Liquid Tide detergent. It works great. I used 3D Towel Kleen for years. I went through 2 gallons of Rags to Riches.
I switched to this Tide and will never go back. This does everything those others do if not better + unscented and only $12 bucks per bottle. [96oz. 50 loads]

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chefwong said:
Bill D - Isn't your method just as much as a contact wash and exposure to skin/shampoo just the same...
For me, which I think we've discussed, while I don't do rinse less and I need plenty of water....I could never get the method of foam fun in hand and running a mitt down the panel.
Just too cumbersome with my 3/4" Hose that is Uber thick and almost as heavy and thick as a 1" hose. I would probably cause more damage having the hose touch the panel for the umteeth time doing your wash style
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I risk getting dry hands only if I'm using mitts in a contact wash for a prolonged time

I'm sorry you've had trouble washing via foam gun and mitts. I can tell you it took me many attempts before I got efficient at it
 
Eldorado2k said:
I use this Liquid Tide detergent. It works great. I used 3D Towel Kleen for years. I went through 2 gallons of Rags to Riches.
I switched to this Tide and will never go back. This does everything those others do if not better + unscented and only $12 bucks per bottle. [96oz. 50 loads]

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I use TIde Hygienic too but not the hypoallergenic type yet. I'm glad it's working so well for you
 
One thing that Griots preaches is using both. A free and clear detergent which is great for dirt and grime.

They say a MF detergent does a better job getting Sealants(sio2 ones too), waxes and polishes out.

Made sense to me and I have to say when I started using theres mixed with a free and clear my towels have stayed like new for last 4 years.


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Coatingsarecrack said:
Not to many dryers will get hot enough to melt the polyamide (the nylon/plastic) in MF.
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The polyamide and polyester in MF are semi-crystalline polymers and could soften above their glass transition temperature (impacts the non-crystalline region). That's much lower than their melting point. Not sure exactly what happens in a dryer above the glass transition temperature but it seems possible that you could distort the fibers some and then they would stay like that when they cool off. I still use low heat.
 
MisterSnoop said:
The polyamide and polyester in MF are semi-crystalline polymers and could soften above their glass transition temperature (impacts the non-crystalline region). That's much lower than their melting point. Not sure exactly what happens in a dryer above the glass transition temperature but it seems possible that you could distort the fibers some and then they would stay like that when they cool off. I still use low heat.
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I have used normal (high) with no ill effects but I never dry to completion. I’ve forgotten sometimes and they have dried to completion and all my towels are 4-5 years old.

I probably got 10+ drying towels (mostly PFM’s) drying towels, 40 EE 350’s 20 EE 500’s and another 50+ from multiple sources of same quality (speed masters, clean garage and such) brand new waiting on the wings that I got on multiple BF sales expecting the current ones to ware out.

I’ve either been lucky or the MF are tougher than peeps give them credit for…


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Coatingsarecrack said:
I have used normal (high) with no ill effects...I’ve either been lucky or the MF are tougher than peeps give them credit for…
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MisterSnoop said:
The polyamide and polyester in MF are semi-crystalline polymers and could soften above their glass transition temperature (impacts the non-crystalline region). That's much lower than their melting point. Not sure exactly what happens in a dryer above the glass transition temperature but it seems possible that you could distort the fibers some and then they would stay like that when they cool off. I still use low heat.
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You sound like you know something about this. I was with Crack and always dried on hot without any problems, but I have some shaggy edgeless towels from MFT/AF (I can't remember what the name was, they don't sell them anymore) that got permanently changed after I washed them in my (then) new washer which has like a 4 million RPM spin speed, and dried them on hot. Or did I wash them on the "sanitize" cycle? I can't remember, I talked about it over on Autopia. If somebody else had told me the story, I would have called BS, but since then I have been a little more conservative in my MF washing. I never figured out exactly what part of the process was responsible, and it was only those specific towels, not any others in the load, that were affected.

Now that I'm thinking about this, didn't someone have a thread recently about some Eagle Edgeless or similar that the fibers got bunched up?
 
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