Will defiantly give that thread read, So would you suggest the Hydro-techpads from LC? or the CCS pads?
If i go with LC pads would
Tangerine = Finishing Glaze
First... out of the 4 most CRUCIAL factors as it relates to buffing out car paint and getter GREAT resuls... and in the context of foam pads... the pad is the LEAST important. So don't get too hung up on pads.
This is something I type all the time... all my life I always see, read or hear other guys saying something like this,
Technique is Number #1
I say B.S.
Here's what I think....
Abrasive technology is number #1
You can have the best technique in the world but if the "stuff" actually touching the paint is junk then the best technique in the world still won't get you great or even good results.
So in order of their importance when it comes to buffing on paint and especially scratch-sensitive thin clearcoat paints....
1. Abrasive technology
2. & 3. Tool and Technique
4. Pads
I'm a flat pad kind of guy, it just makes sense. So I tend to use the Lake Country 5.5" Flat Pads when I use the PC, Griot's or Meguiar's G110v2
I show my normal go-to pads for when I use simple DA's in this thread and if you haven't read this thread then I recommend reading it as it has a LOT of good information. Be sure to scroll down, don't just look at the first picture.
Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation
Moving into the future I'll be using more of the new Meguiar's Foam Discs because thin pads simply rotate better than thick pads and as of today the new Meguiar's 5.5" foam discs are the thinnest foam pads on the market and I've been using them since Detail Fest and they work awesome.
Thin is in...
I coined that term years ago and now thin pads will be the
norm for da polishers moving into the future.
See my write-up on the new Meguiar's thin discs below. More pictures showing the new Meguiar's pads
in use with
more tools than any other thread in the forum world.
Also more pictures documenting the
before and after results and for the after results they are both in our studio
and in full sun
And the full son shots duplicate the same location I took the before shots in the sun.
(I have an article on this somewhere, maybe someone can dig it up?)
NEW! Meguiar’s Foam Buffing Discs
What color would be good for Swirl remover?
For the LC Flat or CCS go with Orange. For Hydro-Tech go with blue.
For Meguiar's go with the maroon discs.
And you said the glaze isn't really a glaze so would it do anything if i then after everything applied some black light from CG (glaze)?
The Wolfgang Finishing Glaze is a fine cut polish and it works amazing on all types of paint systems, (that means all types of cars because car manufacturers use different paint systems).
After you wipe off the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze I would go straight to your LSP and it shouldn't have any cleaners or abrasives in it. In other words you want to use a finishing wax or a show car wax. These types of products don't offer any cleaning ability.
See my article here,
The Difference Between a Cleaner/Wax and a Finishing Wax
Hope that helps....
