What polish for good paint

solman

solman

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My car is fairly new and I have been careful with the paint on it. I don't really have any swirls or correction to do. I just want to polish it up for the fall before I put a wax on it. What are some recommended products?
Would a aio be recommended? I am thinking a two step process would yield better results.
Thanks,
Solman
 
Has the car been clayed? If not, I recommend you clay it first. Then follow with a light polish like M205. Then apply your sealant. If you have a harsh winter season, I'd go with something like Collinite 845 for sealant.

If you want to do an AIO and just need to clean the paint like you say, then BF Total Polish and Seal would be a good option.
 
wdmaccord said:
Has the car been clayed? If not, I recommend you clay it first. Then follow with a light polish like M205. Then apply your sealant. If you have a harsh winter season, I'd go with something like Collinite 845 for sealant.

If you want to do an AIO and just need to clean the paint like you say, then BF Total Polish and Seal would be a good option.
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All good posts above. Do the baggie test after washing while it's still wet to see if you need to use clay. Since it's swirl free BF Total Polish and Seal will give you a great finish and long lasting protection with very little time involvement. Touch it up occasionally with BF Wet Diamond Polymer Spray and you're all set.
 
solman said:
My car is fairly new and I have been careful with the paint on it. I don't really have any swirls or correction to do. I just want to polish it up for the fall before I put a wax on it. What are some recommended products?
Would a aio be recommended? I am thinking a two step process would yield better results.
Thanks,
Solman
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Better off using a paint cleaner, something like Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite.
 
solman said:
I don't really have any swirls or correction to do.
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What light source are you using when you examine your paint for swirls or other defects that may need correction?

- Read this article by Mike Phillips.

- Take some pictures and add them to this post



I would be surprised if even your new car is totally swirl free.

If there is not correction needed and it passes the "Baggie Test"....just wax it now.
 
I have been using the florescent lighting in my garage to judge the finish. I don't have a swirl finder light at this point. While there is some minor swirls the finish it is in overall good shape. I figure to give it the full treatment in the spring regardless as I anticipate another rough winter here in NJ.
I will try to get pictures posted.
 
If you are going to do a full detail in the spring and just want to get some protection for winter, then I would IronX, clay, and seal/wax for now. I'd maybe wait about another month though. If you wait until late Sept/early Oct, a good sealant will get you to March/April.
 
I got Griot's Machine polish set couple of years ago (Birthday gift), so I already had it, when I got my new car (Last year) paint was in very good condition, so I used #4 and the results are excellence.
 
Any "jeweling" polish would work well. I would think Menzerna SF4500 would be excellent.
 
If it already looks good enough to you, why polish? You're just removing valuable clearcoat and UV protection.

Clay the car and hit it an AIO on a finishing pad, followed up by a layer of sealant from the same brand.
 
The Critic said:
If it already looks good enough to you, why polish? You're just removing valuable clearcoat and UV protection.

Clay the car and hit it an AIO on a finishing pad, followed up by a layer of sealant from the same brand.
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HMMM...
You want the OP to use Clay, which is an abrasive tool; then use an AIO, which has abrasives in the product: Both which will remove clear-coat paint to a degree...

Yet you're questioning why he is asking about using a polish?


Bob
 
If you don't have swirls than a 2 step polish is overkill IMO.

I would: Citrus wash, nanoskin autoscrub to get all the embedded gunk off (easier than clay bar and must be done before polishing), then use HD Polish (or HD Adapt) on a DA polisher with a white pad.

Then you can put whatever protection wax or coating you want on it.
 
FUNX725 said:
HMMM...

You want the OP to use Clay, which is an abrasive tool; then use an AIO, which has abrasives in the product: Both which will remove clear-coat paint to a degree...



Yet you're questioning why he is asking about using a polish?





Bob
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Bob,
I think you're perfectly aware of the different levels of clearcoat removal with these various tools.

While clay is somewhat abrasive, you are not going to remove much clearcoat if at all.

Likewise, a light AIO on a finishing pad should not do much more than removing any embedded dirt on the surface; I'd be surprised if it removed any swirls.
 
If it was me (and it's not) - I'd use Optimum Finish Polish on a finishing pad. This is a very fine polish that will likely not even remove a measurable amount of clear coat if used correctly.

I really don't get using an AIO, then following it up with another LSP. Just use a dedicated polish and follow with an LSP.

You will have to clay first.
 
swanicyouth said:
I really don't get using an AIO, then following it up with another LSP. Just use a dedicated polish and follow with an LSP.

You will have to clay first.
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I used to think that way - but there are a couple of good reasons to use an AIO followed by a dedicated sealant.

1) AIOs are generally more friendly to short-cycling.
2) AIOs can be easier to wipe-off on finicky paint, and tend to be a bit more friendly to warm temperatures
3) There is generally less cut with AIOs than finishing polishes, so this allows you to provide even less cut.
4) Some AIOs contain chemical cleaners that finishing polishes do not.
 
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