this seems to be the most in-depth comment so i am going to adress this. Can the flex damage a car that im working on if i do not know what im doing originally? Should i get a rupes instead? Also i have plenty of microfiber towels (microfiber madness) and wax and sealant, do i need to get new towels, wax and sealant just for polishers?
You can damage a car even polishing by hand, if you're not careful enough. The conventional DA (free spindle machines) like PC, GG, Megs will be less likely to damage paint because it'll stop spinning ~on edges and when not using proper technique, also are less likely to generate too much heat.
It's way less dangerous than a rotary indeed, but for sure, any machine can damage paint. It's not machine problem, but user's fault (when not an accident).
I've damaged paint with a DA once (Meguiar's G220v2 DA), but never with my Flex 3401. Totally my fault, sure, wrong products, and technique.
No, you don't need to buy wax and sealant for polish, I just tried to give a complete setup to do the entire work with quality products. Every item in my list can be switched to, in example, flat pads like suggested above by someone. Same goes for MF, but it's better to have plenty of great towels to remove polish residue.
You polished the paint flawless, you should use the best towel to remove residue to avoid inputing back defects into paint.
The flex 3401 is a forced rotation machine, which means the pad will spin ALL the time while oscillating, turning it into a very powerful, but safe to use machine.
It's an all around machine, can tackle pads from 4" to 6.5" or even a bit larger. Can handle wool pads.
It's very user friendly, comfortable to use. It has way less vibration and noise than PC style machines.
The Rupes (I have both 3401 and Rupes 21) is a beast, wonderful machine, very ergonomic, a pleasure to use. However, it's not an all around tool like the 3401, which will put you in a situation you may need to order a secondary machine to tackle 4" spots.
For sure you can do it by hand, but at least in my work, I use the 4" plate on the flex ~70% of an entire detail, even on large cars.
The 5" hybrid pads (recommended) gives you precise detailing in fenders, curves, intricate hoods and other designs,...
I may say I love my Rupes, and grab it every time I can (because it's a pleasure to use), generally on the remaining ~30% or to do a finishing polish (it covers large areas fast, mainly and better over flat parts but works in everything).
For the Rupes, if you can afford a 21 and a Mini, or a 15 and a mini, or a Duetto and a Mini, this can be an alternative to the Flex setup I've recommended above.
However, the Flex is a forced rotation DA, even if in the future you order a Rupes Machine, you will always have a use to it.
Regarding Power and Damaging paint, I feel more 'scared' about damaging paint with the Rupes 21 than with the Flex 3401.
The Rupes 21' throw is huge, which makes the pad spin crazily fast. The larger throw can also be dangerous on edges, when pad is spinning at high speeds (generally 5-6), and using a MF disc.
That said, if you inform yourself, watch plenty of Mike Phillips (and others) videos, you're set.
I've demonstrated the Flex 3401 + 4" plate and 5" hybrid to a guy one time, and let he try, he was able to do the whole section for the first time, with perfection.
Start on slow speeds, to feel the machine.
Do a light polishing, try to get the pad flat.
Spread product correctly over surface, etc, I mean, learn (HERE AT AGO!) the proper technique, you'll get professional results using what I included in my list.
If you need further help, don't hesitate to ask.
Kind Regards.