What product/ Color pads

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Yoshi94

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Im going to be using my PC 7424xp this weekend on my camaro. Its my DD, & has intermediate swirls and light scratches. I ordered the Intermediate Swirl remover kit from Pinnacle. Was wondering if I wet sanded , would any of the kit products remove the wetsanding marks? Or should I order the m105/205 combo for that?

With it being my DD and no more garage ( will be detailing inside buddys garage)

I really need something to lock everything in & hold up to the DD weather abuse. So I ask what products & color pads to use with them.
 
i doubt a foam pad can eliminate sand marks, but i read the surbuf pads can take care of that. You can add that to your order. If you're more interested in protection, then you're best bet would be sealant than a wax.
 
I'm not too sure I would go through the whole wet sanding thing for a DD that sits outside 24/7.
 
If you have to ask, then you shouldn't do it. You can do ALOT of damage while wetsanding if you don't have the proper equipment and exerience.


Don't take that the wrong way, just heed the advice.
 
Not taking it the wrong way. I'm still learning so its cool. Ive wetsanded before but was helping my friend with his nissan, but that was years ago. I didnt do anything more than wetsand though.

What would be a good sealant to use for a DD. I ts a Polo Green Metallic camaro
 
zinc02gt said:
If you have to ask, then you shouldn't do it. You can do ALOT of damage while wetsanding if you don't have the proper equipment and exerience.


Don't take that the wrong way, just heed the advice.
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I couldn't agree more wetsanding is a whole new ball game when it comes to paint correction.As far as the PC you should be able to remove 2500/3000 sanding marks but won't be able to do it using the XMT line of products.IMO the best way to remove sanding marks is good old wool and a rotary.
 
XMT #3 should be able to remove 2500/3000 sanding marks with a DA no problem. #4 is a much heavier cut, up there with compounds like Power Gloss and will laugh at 2500 grit sanding marks.

With that said, I don't recommend wet sanding..
 
I ALWAYS use Collinite 845 for DD status cars. I'll top that with a Natty's wax for added protection most of the time.
 
[email protected] said:
XMT #3 should be able to remove 2500/3000 sanding marks with a DA no problem. #4 is a much heavier cut, up there with compounds like Power Gloss and will laugh at 2500 grit sanding marks.

With that said, I don't recommend wet sanding..
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Yeah, that #4 is wicked. You can hear it grinding on the paint when you spread it around. I had a little fling off the pad onto a test section I had completed. It left significant scratches in the finished paint. I would not use it unless you are spot compounding a specific scratch or compounding BADLY damaged paint.
 
Yea I wont wetsand then.

How long does the Collinite & Natty's hold up?
 
Sticking with the "start with the least aggressive product, and work your way up" theory, I wouldn't even consider wet-sanding as an option untill I have already tried some of the more aggressive pad/product combos. If you're trying to get an order together, I would consider the 105/205 combo plus an assortment of pads from finishing, up to atleast orange light cutting, or the purple foamed wool from LC.

You might be surprised what can be accomplished with the PCXP, and some of the products that AG carries.

As far as protection after you get it polished out nice, I would recomend either Collinite 845, Wolfgang DGPS, or the Klasse twins. They all have pretty good durability, and also really nice looks. I would use DG Aquawax as a maintenance wax. I used it for the first time this past weekend, and I was blown away at how well one quick application beaded and how smooth it made the paint feel!
 
Yoshi,

I had been polishing with Griots ploishes for years. I founf AG and watched some videos. XMT was what they were using, so, I gave it a try. It is OK. #4 has a role for severe stuff. Otherwise, After trying the Megs 105/205, XMT just does not compare IMHO. The Megs is so much easier to work with and get good results with. Read Mike's DAT vs SMAT article. SMAT products rule.
 
845 is very durable. I use it on my work truck for that very reason. Normally I see 4 months of good protection before it's time to re-up. On a truck that wears red clay on a daily basis, I'd say that's pretty good.

I can't speak for Natty's or Natty's Red, but I reapply Natty's Blue every 5-6 weeks on my Mustang. Isn't a true DD, but does see it's fair share of weather.

I say grab them both. Neither are all that expensive and are worth every penny.
 
Yoshi94 said:
Yea I wont wetsand then.

How long does the Collinite & Natty's hold up?
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So far it has held up very well in the harsh southern Alabama humidity/rain/heat/pollen. So far it has held up for about 2 months and still beads great. I try to wash my car at least once a week. It is also a DD.
 
What year is your Camaro? What condition is the paint in? The areas you are attempting to fix, can your fingernail catch them? You really need to assess your paint, take into consideration the environment, and think about what results you are looking for such as 70% correction, 80% correction, etc. With that being said, my vote is for M105/M205 and flat pads. I am not a seasoned pro, I just know what worked for me over the weekend on my wife's black car that is only 3 years old. My process was M105 with a 5.5" LC Cyan HT pad, then M205 with a 5.5" LC Tangerine HT pad, and finally PO85RD on 5.5" LC gray CCS pad.

Make sure you start out with the least aggressive method first on a test section, not the whole car.
 
I'm liking what I'm seeing with the #845. Since I just ordered some car parts & already ordered the XMT I'll just use that for now. So heres the plans

XMT #3 / CCS orange
XMT #1/ CCS white
XMT Finishing glaze/ CCS Grey
Collinite 845 (what color CCS pad?)

Does that sound about right? Can the #845 be applied with the PCXP?
 
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