What should my next tool be?

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KirkH

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I am a part time detailer. During the warm months I detail 6-15 cars per month. I also have a nice car ('16 Camaro) and 2 beaters. The beaters need a lot of correction.

I have a PC7424XP and a Cyclo Pro 5. I have 5", 3", and 2" rotary buffer plates for the PC. I feel like I have mastered those tools.

Which tool would you recommend for me next? Forced orbital? Rotary? Flex, Rupes,

My goals would be faster correction, professional results, and learning new techniques. Price is not really a factor. Good tools cost what they cost.

Thanks in advance!


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I'm personally a big fan of the Rupes 21 with a 5" backing plate for correction and finishing.

Do you have a Paint Thickness Gauge? Mine has paid for itself many times over.
 
If most of your details are not in good condition and need a 2 step correction or more, get a Flex 3401. If most of your details are in pretty good shape and a one step is all it needs, get a big throw like a Rupes.

I agree with Mike, if your doing correction work, get a paint gauge.:xyxthumbs:
 
If you want old school get a 3401. If you want latest, greatest get a Rupes MKII. The MKII's have significantly more cutting power than any other freefloat or forced rotation DA, so whether you doing 1,2 or 10 steps they will out correct anything else out there and do so more comfortably. Take it from someone who owns 3 Flex's and 3 Rupes.
 
Thanks everyone. That's good info. I would say 95% of my details need at least 2 step correction. That's kind of what I sell. I mostly get referrals, but sometimes I set up my mobile hand wash n wax service at a gas station or parking lot, do cheap hand wash n wax and try to sell them on swirl removal.

Paint gauge getting ordered today. I know I need it.
 
What kinds of pads and products have you tried with your PC?

Sometimes simply experimenting with good product can make a major change in the performance of you and the machine.
 
KirkH said:
Thanks everyone. That's good info...

Paint gauge getting ordered today. I know I need it.
Click to expand...

Good choice...otherwise you are polishing blind! You'll find some paint is way to thin to polish.
I occasionally find a panel much thicker than others. To me this indicates paint shop/bondo etc.
But remember even with a PTG, it's only a tool. Nothing is 100% you still need good judgment.

I like to use Mike P's Vehicle Inspection form and document the paint all the way around first!
I use the PTG after it's washed & before claying to make sure there's room to polish the paint.
 
dlc95 said:
What kinds of pads and products have you tried with your PC?

Sometimes simply experimenting with good product can make a major change in the performance of you and the machine.
Click to expand...

I try to use only what is highly rated. In my arsenal:

Optimum hyper compound and polish
Optimum compound II and polish II
Pinnacle advanced swirl and advanced finishing polish
Meguiars 105 compound, 205 polish and ScratchX
Chemical Guys V 32, 34, 36, 38 and VSS
Wolfgang Uber All in one
CarPro Essence Plus

Pads:
mostly Hex Logic and Buf n Shine


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Side Note: Since I started using M101 I can't remember when the last time was I used M105.
 
KirkH said:
I try to use only what is highly rated. In my arsenal:

Optimum hyper compound and polish
Optimum compound II and polish II
Pinnacle advanced swirl and advanced finishing polish
Meguiars 105 compound, 205 polish and ScratchX
Chemical Guys V 32, 34, 36, 38 and VSS
Wolfgang Uber All in one
CarPro Essence Plus

Pads:
mostly Hex Logic and Buf n Shine


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app
Click to expand...

There's great products there for sure.

Those hex logic pads are made by Buff and Shine, so you're good there too.

Some Meguiar's D300 on their microfiber discs can really cut your time down. Follow with the M205 on a polishing pad (I like the blue), and you're set. They also offer an xtra cut disc for really stubborn defects. What I like about it, is that it was specifically designed for d/a, or random orbit tools.

That being said, the Flex 3401, and Rupes line of tools are excellent. I had a 3401, but because I was correcting faster with the PC, I sold it.

I do have a couple of Rupes polishers (Duetto/Mini), with their polishes and pads - absolutely love them. There is a slight learning curve, but once you get past that point, you'll be fine. I can't speak to the Griot's line, but so far they've been getting rave reviews.
 
dlc95 said:
There's great products there for sure.

Those hex logic pads are made by Buff and Shine, so you're good there too.

Some Meguiar's D300 on their microfiber discs can really cut your time down. Follow with the M205 on a polishing pad (I like the blue), and you're set. They also offer an xtra cut disc for really stubborn defects. What I like about it, is that it was specifically designed for d/a, or random orbit tools.

That being said, the Flex 3401, and Rupes line of tools are excellent. I had a 3401, but because I was correcting faster with the PC, I sold it. PC=Porter Cable..faster than a 3401??

I do have a couple of Rupes polishers (Duetto/Mini), with their polishes and pads - absolutely love them. There is a slight learning curve, but once you get past that point, you'll be fine. I can't speak to the Griot's line, but so far they've been getting rave reviews.
Click to expand...
:props:
 
dlc95 said:
There's great products there for sure.

Those hex logic pads are made by Buff and Shine, so you're good there too.

Some Meguiar's D300 on their microfiber discs can really cut your time down. Follow with the M205 on a polishing pad (I like the blue), and you're set. They also offer an xtra cut disc for really stubborn defects. What I like about it, is that it was specifically designed for d/a, or random orbit tools.

That being said, the Flex 3401, and Rupes line of tools are excellent. I had a 3401, but because I was correcting faster with the PC, I sold it.

I do have a couple of Rupes polishers (Duetto/Mini), with their polishes and pads - absolutely love them. There is a slight learning curve, but once you get past that point, you'll be fine. I can't speak to the Griot's line, but so far they've been getting rave reviews.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I guess before I buy a new machine I should practice with microfiber fads and the PC. Cool! Thanks!
 
With the new MF pads,Flash pads,Thin Pro's etc the PC can outcut a 3401 with Hybrids. The PC without loud has higher opm than the 3401(4800 opm) vs PC(6500 opm). Thats why some members are getting faster correction with a PC over the 3401. Now use those same pads on the new technology Rupes and the cut is insane.
 
Zubair said:
With the new MF pads,Flash pads,Thin Pro's etc the PC can outcut a 3401 with Hybrids. The PC without loud has higher opm than the 3401(4800 opm) vs PC(6500 opm). That's the problem..without load, can you cut without load? Dunno never compared the 3401 with wool pads compared to a PC with flash pads.Thats why some members are getting faster correction with a PC over the 3401. Now use those same pads on the new technology Rupes and the cut is insane.
Click to expand...
:props:
 
KirkH said:
I am a part time detailer. During the warm months I detail 6-15 cars per month. I also have a nice car ('16 Camaro) and 2 beaters. The beaters need a lot of correction.

I have a PC7424XP and a Cyclo Pro 5. I have 5", 3", and 2" rotary buffer plates for the PC. I feel like I have mastered those tools.

Which tool would you recommend for me next? Forced orbital? Rotary? Flex, Rupes,

My goals would be faster correction, professional results, and learning new techniques. Price is not really a factor. Good tools cost what they cost.

Thanks in advance!


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app
Click to expand...

I have been experimenting with the Rupes Nano and I would recommend it as "next tool".

It has so many applications I can't begin to list them here.

Main tool I like is the 1" rotary with both blue compound and yellow polish.

They both sling (blue more than yellow), but good results.

Have not used the DA tools much as most of my trials have been on small curved areas.

Today wet sanded 1500 grit some newly painted hubcaps.

They had quite a bit of fine orange peel from rattle can clear coat application by yours truly.

Did one spoke at a time (5 total) and really impressed.

Totally removed the the sanding marks with the blue pad and blue compound.

Did the yellow pad with yellow polish just to see and it even refined it more.

Sure it takes a long time and would not be practical for production detailing, but it gives great results.
 
Zubair said:
With the new MF pads,Flash pads,Thin Pro's etc the PC can outcut a 3401 with Hybrids. The PC without loud has higher opm than the 3401(4800 opm) vs PC(6500 opm). Thats why some members are getting faster correction with a PC over the 3401. Now use those same pads on the new technology Rupes and the cut is insane.
Click to expand...

Kevin Brown stated the even the 1st Gen 7424 under load was faster.

Honestly, my pads tend to load up before I can complete my buffing cycle sometimes. It's pretty frustrating.

Check out post #2.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...das-will-correct-better-than-flex-3401-a.html
 
Can someone recommend a paint thickness gauge? Thanks for all the responses!
 
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