What speed for correction on the FLEXPE14?

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rauljimenez

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Mike and everyone else reading this forum , when you do correction work using the new FLEX rotary, what speed should I be aiming for the 1st step with either the wool or orange pad???

I will be using my DA Meguiar v2 for my 2nd-3rd steps to leave a hologram free finish , thanks !!!!!!!:buffing:
 
I do most of my compounding work on clear coats around 1400 RPM

I'm sure others will chime in with their prefernce...

Remember to clean your pad often, anytime you're cutting with a wool pad, a compound and a rotary buffer you're going to have both "Spent Product" and "Removed Paint" building up on the face of your buffing pad.

If you don't have a Spur... get one...

Pad washers are great too for wool pads if you do a lot of buffing...


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I do most of my compounding work on clear coats around 1400 RPM

I'm sure others will chime in with their prefernce...

Remember to clean your pad often, anytime you're cutting with a wool pad, a compound and a rotary buffer you're going to have both "Spent Product" and "Removed Paint" building up on the face of your buffing pad.

If you don't have a Spur... get one...

Pad washers are great too for wool pads if you do a lot of buffing...


:)
Click to expand...


Awesome !!! thanks for such a fast reply mike!!!! If you do the 2nd step say 205 on a white pad and leave 85RD for the DA , do you still do 2nd step on 1400RPM??


what is a SPUR?? :S

nevermind I found it !!!Duo Spur Wool & Foam Pad Cleaning Tool: Scrub dirty pads clean with this multi-pupose cleaning tool!
 
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The paint type, paint condition, pad and product combo and surface shape I am polishing will determine at what speed I will run the buffer at.

For an example I'd run a polisher up near 2000 on a large bed cover and down as low as 800-1000 on a side view mirror or A-pillar.
 
superior_shine said:
The paint type, paint condition, pad and product combo and surface shape I am polishing will determine at what speed I will run the buffer at.

For an example I'd run a polisher up near 2000 on a large bed cover and down as low as 800-1000 on a side view mirror or A-pillar.
Click to expand...

Great point Joe.

The bigger point is that as a detailer, you need to be flexible and able to adjust your technique, pads, products and tools for each project you're working on. Doing this requires experience and the only way to get experience is by buffing out more and more cars. You can flatten out the learning curve though by doing what you're doing and that's asking questions to a quality forum like AGO

:xyxthumbs:



rauljimenez said:
Awesome !!! thanks for such a fast reply mike!!!! If you do the 2nd step say 205 on a white pad and leave 85RD for the DA , do you still do 2nd step on 1400RPM??
Click to expand...

Depends on how the paint finished out after the M105 but assuming it finished out to the point that it looks like you just waxed the paint, not just compounded it, then if the car was "Special Interest", that is something I'm trying to put a show car finish on, then I would make one pass over the car with a polishing pad and M205 around 1300 to 1400 RPM, this will effectively cut out any swirls, seen or hidden left by the first step. Then wipe the paint down and either clean your pad really well or better yet, switch to a new pad, or a clean dry pad and re-buff at a lower RPM, usually as low as the polisher will go and do my finish polishing and finish passes with everything surgically clean and at a low RPM

Then hit it with the PO85RD if you want to finish out with a DA to ensure there are no unseen residual swirls left in the paint.

If this was more of a "Production Detail", then I wouldn't put this much time, or these many steps into the project.

See this article,

A few tips on starting a part-time detailing business



rauljimenez said:
what is a SPUR?? :S

nevermind I found it !!!

Duo Spur Wool & Foam Pad Cleaning Tool: Scrub dirty pads clean with this multi-pupose cleaning tool!
Click to expand...

You want a STEEL spur for cleaning wool pads, don't use a screwdriver, get a Spur, it works so much better.

The below picture was taken from this class, there are new classes coming up in May, consider attending.

Pictures & Comments from September 19th Detailing 102 Class


Use a Spur just like this, with your rotary buffer rested against your leg and the draw the spur across just the inner side of the pad like shown...

This is a Steel Pad Cleaning Spur and to use it you bring the Rotary Buffer RPM's up to speed and then run the spur back and forth across the face of the pad on the side that is rotating away from you...
Sept19ADVClass097.jpg
 
It does depend on the type and condition of the paint. I have compounded anywhere from 800rpm to 2000rpm with a wool pad. Generally things usually stay between 1400-1800, but it does all depend on what you are working on.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Great point Joe.

The bigger point is that as a detailer, you need to be flexible and able to adjust your technique, pads, products and tools for each project you're working on. Doing this requires experience and the only way to get experience is by buffing out more and more cars. You can flatten out the learning curve though by doing what you're doing and that's asking questions to a quality forum like AGO

:xyxthumbs:





Depends on how the paint finished out after the M105 but assuming it finished out to the point that it looks like you just waxed the paint, not just compounded it, then if the car was "Special Interest", that is something I'm trying to put a show car finish on, then I would make one pass over the car with a polishing pad and M205 around 1300 to 1400 RPM, this will effectively cut out any swirls, seen or hidden left by the first step. Then wipe the paint down and either clean your pad really well or better yet, switch to a new pad, or a clean dry pad and re-buff at a lower RPM, usually as low as the polisher will go and do my finish polishing and finish passes with everything surgically clean and at a low RPM

Then hit it with the PO85RD if you want to finish out with a DA to ensure there are no unseen residual swirls left in the paint.

If this was more of a "Production Detail", then I wouldn't put this much time, or these many steps into the project.

See this article,

A few tips on starting a part-time detailing business





You want a STEEL spur for cleaning wool pads, don't use a screwdriver, get a Spur, it works so much better.

The below picture was taken from this class, there are new classes coming up in May, consider attending.

Pictures & Comments from September 19th Detailing 102 Class


Use a Spur just like this, with your rotary buffer rested against your leg and the draw the spur across just the inner side of the pad like shown...

This is a Steel Pad Cleaning Spur and to use it you bring the Rotary Buffer RPM's up to speed and then run the spur back and forth across the face of the pad on the side that is rotating away from you...
Sept19ADVClass097.jpg
Click to expand...


Thanks Mike and everyone!!! , I am moving into the rotary world and Ive seen a lot of DA videos tutorials in here from mike that I've followed to the T , but when it comes to Rotary I feel kind of NUDE !!!

the only post I could find is the one on the rotary forum called , IS THE FLEX PE14 REALLY WORTH IT, so that helped out a lot MIKE, I'll keep polishing now :buffing:
 
For a beginner, I'd start my RPM on the lower end of the scale. Just so you can get use to how the rotary reacts to different body panels.

That's just my .02 cents
 
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