What the heck did the dealer spray on my car

Those lazy bums painted something quick outside of booth and you got paint over spray for free.
 
I'd definitely ask the Dealer what the hell did they do to your car to get like this? You "might" get a truthful answer. Notice I say might. 99% of the time, most will likely try to lie their way out of shouldering any responsibility, and deny any such happenings occurred there.
 
MarkD51 said:
Since you say you've coated the car previous to this mishap, you might find claying on the paint to go easier than on the Glass. Unsure what you had on the glass, but likely not as durable and protective as the paint coating.
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Bingo! I was focus on trying to fix the glass first before trying the paint. Today I gave the clay bar a shot on the paint. Where the clay maybe removed 5% of the overspray off the glass, it removed 95% of it off the paint. It took a little more effort than normal clay bar work, but it worked well enough that I think I can clean up the paint to be bearable.

gonna try clay the rest on the weekend, then wash again to see how well the CQUK 3.0 holds up. I’m gonna assume Gliss will be gone.

glass had nothing protecting it.
 
mrmarkmac said:
Bingo! I was focus on trying to fix the glass first before trying the paint. Today I gave the clay bar a shot on the paint. Where the clay maybe removed 5% of the overspray off the glass, it removed 95% of it off the paint. It took a little more effort than normal clay bar work, but it worked well enough that I think I can clean up the paint to be bearable.

gonna try clay the rest on the weekend, then wash again to see how well the CQUK 3.0 holds up. I’m gonna assume Gliss will be gone.

glass had nothing protecting it.
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Very good to hear. As mentioned above, some glass cleaner and a razor blade should clear up the glass.

I'd still pitch a b!tch at that dealer. At the very least you may be able save the next poor guy from the same hell you experienced......
 
mrmarkmac said:
Bingo! I was focus on trying to fix the glass first before trying the paint. Today I gave the clay bar a shot on the paint. Where the clay maybe removed 5% of the overspray off the glass, it removed 95% of it off the paint. It took a little more effort than normal clay bar work, but it worked well enough that I think I can clean up the paint to be bearable.

gonna try clay the rest on the weekend, then wash again to see how well the CQUK 3.0 holds up. I’m gonna assume Gliss will be gone.

glass had nothing protecting it.
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Glad to hear you've made some progress.

I know others have suggested Razor Blades on the glass, and while such might work quickly, I'd also be apprehensive to trying a fast way out. Can Razor Blades scratch and damage Glass? I myself would rather not find out the hard way. Same with 0000 Steel Wool, not the best choice either IMO.

I know in the olden days, I used to be able to buy Brass Razor Blades, a wax factory that catered to professional detailers used to have these, but not sure if they are made anymore? Brass being a softer metal is less prone to scratch the Glass.

Harsh chemicals might be another way, I might be inclined to carefully try Denatured Alcohol on an Applicator (wear Nitrile Gloves) for kicks and see what the results are? Otherwise I would then perhaps rely on Claying.

The hardest areas of all possibly if they are contaminated might be any-all Plastic Trim, and Rubber. Things like Headlight-Tail Light Lenses, which can scratch and be damaged very easily.
 
PaulMys said:
In my opinion, no. Not if used in a gentle manor with a lubricant such as glass cleaner.
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Yeah, I'm aware that Single Edge Razor Blades have been used for eons for such uses, and is the common choice for painters, glass shops, detailers. Agreed, and if you must, use some form of liquid, a glass cleaner, a detailing spray, or waterless wash to help as a lubricant.

Strop the blade first on a piece of leather to remove any slight ragged micro-burrs first would be a good idea.

I know especially with the Windshield, nasty glass with overspray will be hell in the rain and on Wiper Blades.

As something I might add, I might even try something like Rain-X as well as a cleaner. This stuff can cut some nasties, and might cut the overspray? I'd say worth a try.
 
I would try 0000 steel wool on the glass or a glass polish and a Rayon pad. If you are not happy with the paint, perhaps you can try a light polish on a test spot.
 
MarkD51 said:
Glad to hear you've made some progress.

I know others have suggested Razor Blades on the glass, and while such might work quickly, I'd also be apprehensive to trying a fast way out. Can Razor Blades scratch and damage Glass? I myself would rather not find out the hard way. Same with 0000 Steel Wool, not the best choice either IMO.

The hardest areas of all possibly if they are contaminated might be any-all Plastic Trim, and Rubber. Things like Headlight-Tail Light Lenses, which can scratch and be damaged very easily.
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thanks. I may rail on the dealer to fix the glass, now that I can deal with the paint I hope. If they scratch the glass they can replace it.

for the trim, I have not tried yet, but it was all coated with DLUx. Hopefully that helps like CQUK is helping the paint.
 
mrmarkmac said:
Where the clay maybe removed 5% of the overspray off the glass, it removed 95% of it off the paint.
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Glad to hear that. I've been stressed on your behalf about this! I hope the rest turns out well.
 
Foaming glass cleaner for lubrication and use a razor blade held as parallel to the window as your fingers will allow. Stainless steel blades are less likely to scratch the window than carbon steel.

Window fixed in less then 10 minutes. I worked at a car dealer with an onsite body shop. Body shop would bring cars with overspray and that's how we fixed every window.

Window tinters will also clean the inside with the same method before applying window tint.


This is what I use for lubrication on the window when using a razor blade.
Sprayway Glass Cleaner, glass cleaner, aerosol glass cleaner, sprayway clenaer

I like its properties of sticking to the window so every swipe is lubricated and I can see what I've already cleaned. Dont use a dry razor blade on the window or you will most likely scratch it. Use common sense when handling a razor blade.
 
Spent a few hours today with clay and lube. Some areas needed two passes to get it all, but so far, so good on the paint. The glass is still a mess. Even after clay it’s excessively rough when running my hand across it.

I’m so glad I had the ceramic on the paint now. I can’t imagine if the paint was not protected and the overspray on the paint was like it is on the glass. That would be a nightmare.

CQUK 3.0 and Gliss paid for itself in my case for sure. I put them on back in Feb.
 
They make razor blade holders for use with ceramic stove tops - they hold the blade at the correct (slight) angle so as to prevent damaging/scratching the surface. Try one of these on your windows, along with a form of lubrication.
 
Just wanted to follow up in case anyone needs advise in the future after a dealer cots your car for free with overspray.

Spent nearly my entire Sunday finishing off the removal. Overall the paint came out great, and I believe it’s 100% due to CQUK3.0 and Gliss. Using clay bar I’d say the paint went back to nice and smooth. I applied a coat of reload when done.

For the windows, that was a nightmare and took most of the day. I stuck with the clay and did. Few more attempts. I decided to switch from the Ech2o clay line mix of 1:40 and mixed waterless wash ech2o at 1:15 and it made it easier.

While the paint is 99% smooth, I’d say the glass is 95% but it was a hell of a job to just get that.

I guess next trip to the dealer (will be a new one) I’ll need to babysit the car like an over protective parent.
 
mrmarkmac said:
Just wanted to follow up in case anyone needs advise in the future after a dealer cots your car for free with overspray.

Spent nearly my entire Sunday finishing off the removal. Overall the paint came out great, and I believe it’s 100% due to CQUK3.0 and Gliss. Using clay bar I’d say the paint went back to nice and smooth. I applied a coat of reload when done.

For the windows, that was a nightmare and took most of the day. I stuck with the clay and did. Few more attempts. I decided to switch from the Ech2o clay line mix of 1:40 and mixed waterless wash ech2o at 1:15 and it made it easier.

While the paint is 99% smooth, I’d say the glass is 95% but it was a hell of a job to just get that.

I guess next trip to the dealer (will be a new one) I’ll need to babysit the car like an over protective parent.
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Very good to hear.

At the next dealer, open with your experience from the previous one, and let them know that you will not tolerate the kind of carelessness you received there to your prized ride.

It's common sense to us AutoGeeks. But, sadly has to be emphasized to [insert bad word here] dealers.
 
Same as others have said most likely paint overspray. We had to remove overspray on about 10 vehicles at a local car dealership last week that had the similar issue. The vehicles were parked close to where they were renovating the showroom. We foamed, washed & clay bar to correct. Some vehicles that had lots of over-spray we had to polish.
 
Follow up on this. This weekend I prepped and did 2x CQUK to my wife’s new car. It’s brand new so did the wash, ironx, and clay before essence xtreme. Before I polished, the paint felt really smooth after the clay, but I grabbed a baggy and ran it across the paint and felt a fair amount of contaminants. Re-did clay with a little less lube to make it more ‘grabby’ and it is pretty good, but still feel a few bumps here and there, but not worth a third clay round.

So, I grab the baggy and run across the mustang that I spent the weekend cleaning overspray. To the touch the paint feels nice and smooth, with the baggy I still feel contaminants. Guess I’m a sucker for punishment as it just winds me up again.

So my question is whether you should not feel anything at all with the baggy test? Perfectly smooth? Even the brand new car after two clay bar rounds, I still feel a few bumps. It feels super smooth to the touch with bare fingers. Maybe I’m being OCD now.
 
mrmarkmac said:
Just wanted to follow up in case anyone needs advise in the future after a dealer cots your car for free with overspray.

Spent nearly my entire Sunday finishing off the removal. Overall the paint came out great, and I believe it’s 100% due to CQUK3.0 and Gliss. Using clay bar I’d say the paint went back to nice and smooth. I applied a coat of reload when done.

For the windows, that was a nightmare and took most of the day. I stuck with the clay and did. Few more attempts. I decided to switch from the Ech2o clay line mix of 1:40 and mixed waterless wash ech2o at 1:15 and it made it easier.

While the paint is 99% smooth, I’d say the glass is 95% but it was a hell of a job to just get that.

I guess next trip to the dealer (will be a new one) I’ll need to babysit the car like an over protective parent.
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We used Body Bar (Body Shop grade clay bar) and isopropyl alcohol/water mix in spray bottle after the vehicle was dried off from wash. Like you said, it took time to remove. Time frames will vary based on where the vehicle was positioned to where the painting occurred. (Some required more effort than others including some light polishing.) I believe we corrected close to 10 vehicles at the dealership that had this issue! Not a fun job.
 
The Mustang has been in the garage pretty much since Ford coated it with Overspray and after I spent two weekends claying. Today I had it out and washed it, then did an elixer wipe down.

I did the same wash and elixer to my wife’s car which had the same ceramic coatings applied. It was very noticeable how much more slick her car feels, but I think it’s because my days of clay have taken the GLISS coat off the mustang. By hand both feel slick, just more on her car.

I took a plastic baggy again, and the paint still feels bumpy. By hand the mustang feels pretty good, but when checking with a plastic bag it’s evident there’s still overspray.

Am I right in assuming that I shouldn’t feel anything with the baggy test? Even on my wife’s car which only has 1,000 miles on it, and I did the full clay, ironx, polish, CQUK and GLIsS on, I still feel random bumps, just not nearly as many as the mustang with the remaining overspray.

Just trying to determine if I rewind and polish off the CQUK and assume overspray with it, and start over. Visually and to the bare hand, car looks and feels great. Or leave it be? Just not sure if the overspray will be harder to polish off months/year from now.

i watched the Autogeek video on removing overspray, and Mike just did clay and then wax. He noted after clay it didn’t have the sandpaper sound, but that was bare hand and not a plastic baggy.
 
mrmarkmac said:
I had my mustang into the dealer for a few mechanical items and they had it a week. I told them not to wash it, and from the look of it, they did not. It was clean when I dropped it off, and I know they had it parked outside and there were rain spots.

I washed it after getting it home, using normal routine.
Spray down.
Spray foam with reset.
Rinse.
two bucket method with reset.
rinse
Pat dry with PFM
after dry, I went to start applying Merlin Elixer and that’s when everything went downhill.

paint is (or was) perfect as I did polish and 2xCQUK and Gliss when brand new. Have been using Merlin for quick detail and always looks amazing.

After this wash, water beaded as normal. Very little water to pat dry, and car looked great. However when I sprayed elixer and wiped, it was pulling hard and leaving hundreds of micro dots. when I lightly ran the back of my hand across the paint I almost fell over, as it feels like grit, or a dirty car before clay. It’s weird as I can’t see anything on the paint until I wipe with elixer. and it’s on the hood, roof, trunk and top of doors/sides. When I run my hand along the bottom rocker portions of the door, they are glass smooth as expected, and as the rest of the car was when I dropped it off.

today when I was parking, the sun hit the window just right and I could see the same scatter of micro dots of whatever this is. I tried to take a pic into the sun.

i tried cleaning the glass with Blackfire glass cleaner. Nothing, not even one dot removed. I tried again with more force, nothing. Zero improvement. I then moved to a household glass cleaner, and again, zero change. The glass was never treated other than Hydr2O

given how much force and rubbing I’m doing on the glass, I don’t even want to try and clean the paint until I find a solution for the glass.

any ideas on how to start from a least aggressive approach, and work up? I feel like going back to the dealer and blowing up, but I don’t want them to touch it again now. God knows what they would try.
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God only knows what could have gotten on to the paint. I just want to give you a tip about the spots that you can't see until wiping them with something wet. Whatever they are, stains on the coating? The IGL precoat took them off my car and it's the only thing that ever has.

Its a prep spray but it uses a citrus that I think probably makes it a more powerful cleaner then other prep sprays. It seems to do a nice deep clean on the paint. I'm actually about to buy more because it cleaned the paint so well and had lots of lubrication.
 
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