What to do first wax 2012 Fusion

ediddy

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Joined the site a couple of weeks ago. Spend all spare time reading here. I love the site but am experiencing information overload. Here's question. I have a white 2012 ford fusion that I've had one year. I wash it regularly but need to do the first wax. What would you pro's recommend?
Thanks,
Eddie
 
I'm no pro, but I'd recommend Collinite 845. It's a solid wax for $16. Just remember, that your cleaning/prepping process is just as important. What processes/products are you currently using?
 
Make sure you have your process down first, the rest will come with it.
 
Hi and congrats on the new car. Like everyone is saying prep work is really important. I'd start by Iron -xing the whole car. Then wash and clay it. After that depending on if your going to polish or not I'd do a couple rounds of polishing, followed by a good sealant like BFWD. If your not going to polish by machine might want to look into a paint cleaner like p21 to apply by hand just to brighten the paint up a little before sealing it in. Good luck
 
I have just been washing and drying. I didn't now about using clay and compound until joining this site. Wondering what you all would recommend.
 
I'm no pro either. But I'm going to figure some things, and hopefully I might be right about these thoughts. I'm guessing your car has been in your ownership a full year already? If so, you're most likely going to need something more that these other two products mentioned to get your paint back into a pristine shape first.

The other's suggestions are some good ones. Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is an outstanding product, especially considering the price. That very same Wax is sitting on my White Tahoe (in my Avatar) as I type this.

It lasts a long time, is easy to apply, and remove, and truly gives an outsanding beautiful look. But, it contains no polishes, and only cleans the paint by the solvents that are in it. Which in truth is sort of lacking, compared to products that specifically clean, or clean-polish-shine up the paint itself. Your piant will look very nice, but the Collinite 845 will only actually "hide" some of any swirling or fine scratches. not permanently remove them.

The Opti-Coat as well, a highly durable synthetic sealant will not correct the paint finish, only seal what's already there as far as paint condition.

A simpler route, would perhaps be to at least Clay the vehicle after a good washing. Clay Bar Kits are easy enough to obtain, even places like Walmart usually sell either Mother's, or Meguiars Kits, which include a Spray Detailer-Clay Lube.

At least do this first to remove dirts, contaminants from the paint surface.

You might actually be better served at first by an All In One Product, that is a Cleaner, a Polish and a Wax-Sealant. I would first concentrate on getting youe paint into a nice shape first.

A really quite nice all in one product that I have recently used, and bought online from (dare I say it, "autopia!!) is Optimum GPS, which stands for "Glaze-Polish-Sealant".

This product can be used either by hand, or by machine, it is very easy to use, easy on, easy off, apply like a wax, and would be virtually impossible to get in trouble with, either by hand, or DA Machine.

I did my entire 6'x12' White Cargo Trailer with this product last week. A Trailer that hasn't seen any care products in close to two years. The finish was oxidized, looking pretty sad. Other than permanently etched bird bombs in the finish, which won't come out with any product, the Trailer now has a finish that looks like brand new.

I estimate I used a total of about 5 oz of product with the Porter Cable DA Machine, which I figure this trailer is probably about the equivalent of two Ford Fusions in Paint Area. A little goes far.

There are of course other very good all in one products available, either here online, or in stores. I myself would probably take this route first, just to sort of get "caught up" with your paint finish for the time being.
In any case, do indeed get some sort of protection on it. Mark
 
I have just been washing and drying. I didn't now about using clay and compound until joining this site. Wondering what you all would recommend.

At the heart of detailing a car there are 4 steps:

1) Clean
2) Decontaminate
3) Polish
4) Protect

The recommendations are based on what YOU want.

If you're looking for a nice shine, without spending too much time:
1) Wash
2) Clay
3) Wax

If you're looking to get a detailed look:
1) Clean wheels
2) Wash
3) Iron X
4) Clay
5) Wax
6) Trim/Tire Dressing

If you're looking for a VERY detailed look

1) Clean wheels
2) Wash
3) Iron X
4) Clay
5) Polish
6) Wax
7) Trim/Tire Dressing

If you're looking for perfection:
1) Clean wheels
2) Wash
3) Iron X
4) Clay
5) Compound
6) Polish
7) Wax
8) Trim/Tire Dressing
 
My wife has a white 2012 Edge. I clayed it, cleaned the paint with Pinnacle Paint Cleansing Lotion, and then sealed it with Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. It looks great, is slick to the touch, and anything that gets on the surface (bird poop, etc.) wipes off easily when I wet it down. I am very impressed with WDGPS.
 
Check out the Ultima brand products at Autogeek. Depending on how much effort you want to put into maintaining the vehicle, this might offer a happy medium for you.
 
Joined the site a couple of weeks ago. Spend all spare time reading here. I love the site but am experiencing information overload. Here's question. I have a white 2012 ford fusion that I've had one year. I wash it regularly but need to do the first wax. What would you pro's recommend?
Thanks,
Eddie

Also Ediddy, Just as all others here have extended a very warm welcome to myself, I would also like welcoming you to this forum!

This is a really super place to be, with all great people.

I see some following posts to mine, which are very well written, and do well explain the major processes of vehicle care.
Have fun! Mark
 
Great post!! I remember not too long ago when you made a similar thread as this one :) Btw, autopiacarcare is owned by the same company that AG is owned by (PBMG).

Your post, and guide was very well written, and lays it all out perfectly IMO. Mark
 
My wife has a white 2012 Edge. I clayed it, cleaned the paint with Pinnacle Paint Cleansing Lotion, and then sealed it with Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. It looks great, is slick to the touch, and anything that gets on the surface (bird poop, etc.) wipes off easily when I wet it down. I am very impressed with WDGPS.

I too am very satisfied with Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0. I applied this to my beater-mobile 2001 Magenta Red 2001 Kia about 3 weeks ago.

It got the WG Twins treatment beforehand with the PC7424XP.

I know it is often monetarily hard for many of us to go the whole route with the entire car care system from the likes of Wolfgang, Pinnacle, Blackfire, but these products I mention appear to have little to no peer.

If my vehicle was a new Porsche, Ferrari, BMW, Mercedes, etc, I'd no doubt be looking to one of these product lines to maintain the beauty, and value of my vehicle. Mark
 
Welcome aboard and welcome to more overload! The basics are always in order:

-clay bar
-polish (Meg's Ultimate Compound)
-Duragloss #101 w/ polish ponding agent mixed in
-DuraGloss #111 w/pba
-Black Fire crystal seal
-wait 45 minutes and apply another coat
-stand back and enjoy the glow!!!

You didn't say if its reg white or pearl but either way, the above combo would work great, no need for nuba on a white car IMO, stick with sealants as they're easy to apply and last a long time as well. Nuba gives depth and since the car is white you can't really get that, again, stick with sealants.

Welcome to AG!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
as a new member of the forum i was about to post almost the same question. however there is a twist. my Toyota Avalon is new, as in 500 miles. i keep it in a garage and am about to wash it for the first time. i have just learned about clay and while i see the importance i wonder if a brand new, basicaly clean car would need that step? my color is a pearl white and while not as deep as a dark color it is still very nice, especially in the sunlight. i have always kept my vehicles clean but have just assumed that the factory sealer was all that was needed. i want to start this one off right. thanks.
 
as a new member of the forum i was about to post almost the same question. however there is a twist. my Toyota Avalon is new, as in 500 miles. i keep it in a garage and am about to wash it for the first time. i have just learned about clay and while i see the importance i wonder if a brand new, basicaly clean car would need that step? my color is a pearl white and while not as deep as a dark color it is still very nice, especially in the sunlight. i have always kept my vehicles clean but have just assumed that the factory sealer was all that was needed. i want to start this one off right. thanks.

After you wash the car, do the baggie test. Take a plastic bag, put your hand inside of course and glide it across the car. Its magic! The plastic bag amplifies the surface contaminants. If the surface is not smooth, you need to clay. Most new cars need to be clayed because they have been transported via train or truck, then sat on railyard or dealer lot before we buy it. Plenty of opportunity for the paint surface to pick up things. I recently purchased a new car and it did need to be clayed. Fortunately, it was not already full of swirls and scratches. Due to that, all I did was clay and wax it.

It is recommended to keep the paint protected, no matter what you choose to do. If you really want to keep it great, pick up a trim sealant / protectant. There are lots of them to choose from as well. All my rubber and plastic trim is going to get protected with Car Pro Dlux which has gotten excellent reviews.

Lastly, dont forget to protect and care for the leather. Lots of different products and opinions on the best way to do that, but doing something is definitely better than nothing.
 
...
If you're looking for a nice shine, without spending too much time:
1) Wash
2) Clay
3) Wax

If you're looking to get a detailed look:
1) Clean wheels
2) Wash
3) Iron X
4) Clay
5) Wax
6) Trim/Tire Dressing
...

While I generically agree with your post, I think you only should clay if you are going to polish afterwards: claying isn't innocuous and same marring is going to occur.
 
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