What would you start with on a friend's car

Centexhokie

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A friend of mine just got a Lunar Blue 2006 Z06 which has probably lived an average life body wise. The paint is highly swirled, but otherwise looks pretty good and the paint feels really rough with the baggie test. He has asked me to help him clean up the outside (the interior looks pretty good). I am planning to start with a wash, followed by iron X, followed by claying the car, but I am not sure what pad and product to start with to polish the body.

I have a GG6 wool, orange, white, gray, blue, red, and gold pads along with Menz 400, 1500, 2500, 3500, and 4500 along with Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover. What combination would you start with for the test passes?
 
Orange pad and Menz 400 would be the starting point...

Finish with White Pad and Menz 2500..
 
I'd try Menz IP2000 first. If that removed all of the swirls, I'd go once more with Menz 4000 or 4500 before LSP.
 
Orange pad and Menz 400 would be the starting point...

Finish with White Pad and Menz 2500..

I was thinking about that, but I am not sure I would start with it not knowing if I needed to go that aggressive.


I'd try Menz IP2000 first. If that removed all of the swirls, I'd go once more with Menz 4000 or 4500 before LSP.

I don't have IP2000 it would have to be 1500 or 2500. What pad would you suggest?
 
I was thinking about that, but I am not sure I would start with it not knowing if I needed to go that aggressive.




I don't have IP2000 it would have to be 1500 or 2500. What pad would you suggest?

I usually use Green or white pads for polishing. If that doesn't work I step up to an orange pad and or a more aggressive polish or compound. Try the SI 1500 with a white pad and see if it gets you where you want to be. Do you have 4000 or 4500 to finish with?
 
I usually use Green or white pads for polishing. If that doesn't work I step up to an orange pad and or a more aggressive polish or compound. Try the SI 1500 with a white pad and see if it gets you where you want to be. Do you have 4000 or 4500 to finish with?

So maybe to be conservative use a white pad and the 2500. If that comes close, but doesn't do it would you up the pad or the polish first?

I have 4500 to finish the car.
 
So maybe to be conservative use a white pad and the 2500. If that comes close, but doesn't do it would you up the pad or the polish first?

I have 4500 to finish the car.

I like the white pads so I personally would use a more aggressive polish or compound. If the 2500 didn't work for me, I would go straight to the FG400 and then finish with the 4000.

You may also want to try the orange pad with the 1500. I think that might be what will work best for you based on your description of the condition of the paint. And don't forget to post pics! :-)
 
Keep in mind that most C6 Corvettes have a "hard" CC.
Still...Use the least aggressive first...for your test spot.

As mentioned by others {especially Just02896}:
I usually work up-the-ladder by going with an increase in product (abrasives'-level) first.

BTW:
If your friend's 2006 ZO6's is Leman's Blue Metallic...
there were only 671 of those produced. Cool color!!

:)

Bob
 
Friends car ?
Well for a friend I'd use UC with an orange pad and UP using a white pad:)
Non friend then yes the good stuff as mentioned. Lol
 
I like the white pads so I personally would use a more aggressive polish or compound. If the 2500 didn't work for me, I would go straight to the FG400 and then finish with the 4000.

You may also want to try the orange pad with the 1500. I think that might be what will work best for you based on your description of the condition of the paint. And don't forget to post pics! :-)

Thanks. I will. I am hoping for nice weather over Christmas week to do it.

Keep in mind that most C6 Corvettes have a "hard" CC.
Still...Use the least aggressive first...for your test spot.

As mentioned by others {especially Just02896}:
I usually work up-the-ladder by going with an increase in product (abrasives'-level) first.

BTW:
If your friend's 2006 ZO6's is Leman's Blue Metallic...
there were only 671 of those produced. Cool color!!

:)

Bob

Thanks. Yes it is Leman's Blue Metallic and it has quite a bit of HP mods so it dyno'd at 625 at the wheel. It is a fun car all around. The first time he took me for a ride you could tell the traction control was giving up.

Friends car ?
Well for a friend I'd use UC with an orange pad and UP using a white pad:)
Non friend then yes the good stuff as mentioned. Lol

He's a good friend who has helped me with mods on a couple of cars I have had, so I'll use the good stuff. :xyxthumbs:
 
Sounds fair to me:dblthumb2:

Thanks. I will. I am hoping for nice weather over Christmas week to do it.



Thanks. Yes it is Leman's Blue Metallic and it has quite a bit of HP mods so it dyno'd at 625 at the wheel. It is a fun car all around. The first time he took me for a ride you could tell the traction control was giving up.



He's a good friend who has helped me with mods on a couple of cars I have had, so I'll use the good stuff. :xyxthumbs:
 
Wait, doesn't IronX come after claying? to remove the embeded contaminants that claying can't get?
 
And don't forget pics! I LOVE metallic blue on a vette! :-)

I'll do the pics. Just hoping for nice weather when we do it. Fortunately, I have a 4 post lift to save my old back because this vette is also lowered.
 
I would do a "test spot" to determine the best pad/polish combo, using the least aggressive to get the job done. Sounds like a nice car!
 
A friend of mine just got a Lunar Blue 2006 Z06 which has probably lived an average life body wise. The paint is highly swirled, but otherwise looks pretty good and the paint feels really rough with the baggie test. He has asked me to help him clean up the outside (the interior looks pretty good). I am planning to start with a wash, followed by iron X, followed by claying the car, but I am not sure what pad and product to start with to polish the body.

I have a GG6 wool, orange, white, gray, blue, red, and gold pads along with Menz 400, 1500, 2500, 3500, and 4500 along with Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover. What combination would you start with for the test passes?

Menz will cut good that first trip over, but it'll drop off fairly quickly. It does however tend to finish better in the last passes than the equivalent cut of say Megs. Where the DAT products will break down and finish slicker, the SMAT ones will get you TO the finish quicker. ;)

That being said; do NOT just hit it with orange and 400. I've seen 1500 finish out a lot of different paints from start to finish making it totally LSP ready. :) Now I would say you can use an orange pad and 1500 as it'll only cut hard that first pass. Keep the speed up to 5 or so at the beginning with medium arm speed and medium hard pressure. Then after about 4 passes you'll be able to spritz it with DI water and turn the speed up to 5.5 as well as lighten the arm pressure a bit and go over it 2~3 more times before it'll all be worked down. Then do a GOOD pad cleaning! Both with a spur/brush and a terry towel.

It's critical that you keep the pad clean and don't' overheat it. Remember that with Menz you're going to have extended working times so the pads are working a lot longer to get the best of the product. (To make it work like it's made to work.) I'd use 2 pads for the hood EASY if not 3. Keeping them clean and rotating them out as you go you may get by with only 4 to get the entire thing done. That's *IF* during the rotation(s) the first one will cool down so you can go back to it.

IMHO, unless you're looking for that 'show car shine', keeping it garaged as well as going with a coating 4500, even 3500 just is something you don't need (or want) with Corvette paint.

If were me, I'd do the compounding with 101 as Vette's generally have hard clear. You might be able to do it with a white pad even. ;) I just like the SMAT compounds a lot better on hard paint. Gets the job done a lot quicker and uses less product. Not that SMAT uses drastically less pads than DAT, but it is possible to cut faster, using less passes, IE less heat in the pad. That can equate to 1 or 2 less compounding pads over the entire vehicle (although it just depends on other variables such as surface temp as well as ambient temps).

For that matter, I'd polish it with 205 and a green pad, at least first time by. Or, switch to Menz 2500 with a white pad to start and get it to start breaking down, then switch to a green pad to finish it down. It's harder though as if both pads are primed then one has product that hasn't started it's work cycle yet, where the other would have partially worked down product in it. Once you get the hang of it though you'll begin to 'feel' where they need to be where the product is picking up on the final stage pad where the first stage left off.

Orrrrrrrrr....... just do 205 all over and knock it out. Then to make that puppy really pop use a pair (at least) of broken in green CCS pads with 3500 as your finessing stage and it'll scream 'shine'. Honestly, I'm not sure that 3500 will do much cutting at all on Vette paint and may not even be worth the effort. Especially considering how well 1500 finishes down.

Just make VERY SURE (especially with Menzerna products) that you do your wipe downs in between stages to both remove all the product/oils/etc. as well as check your work. Eraser is your very best and life long friend there dude! :)

Then PBL glass coat that puppy and he'll be your very best life long friend! :laughing:
(I'm trying to figure out what to top PBL with now.... figure Max will have something for us soon enough.) :rolleyes:
 
Menz will cut good that first trip over, but it'll drop off fairly quickly. It does however tend to finish better in the last passes than the equivalent cut of say Megs. Where the DAT products will break down and finish slicker, the SMAT ones will get you TO the finish quicker. ;)

That being said; do NOT just hit it with orange and 400. I've seen 1500 finish out a lot of different paints from start to finish making it totally LSP ready. :) Now I would say you can use an orange pad and 1500 as it'll only cut hard that first pass. Keep the speed up to 5 or so at the beginning with medium arm speed and medium hard pressure. Then after about 4 passes you'll be able to spritz it with DI water and turn the speed up to 5.5 as well as lighten the arm pressure a bit and go over it 2~3 more times before it'll all be worked down. Then do a GOOD pad cleaning! Both with a spur/brush and a terry towel.

It's critical that you keep the pad clean and don't' overheat it. Remember that with Menz you're going to have extended working times so the pads are working a lot longer to get the best of the product. (To make it work like it's made to work.) I'd use 2 pads for the hood EASY if not 3. Keeping them clean and rotating them out as you go you may get by with only 4 to get the entire thing done. That's *IF* during the rotation(s) the first one will cool down so you can go back to it.

IMHO, unless you're looking for that 'show car shine', keeping it garaged as well as going with a coating 4500, even 3500 just is something you don't need (or want) with Corvette paint.

If were me, I'd do the compounding with 101 as Vette's generally have hard clear. You might be able to do it with a white pad even. ;) I just like the SMAT compounds a lot better on hard paint. Gets the job done a lot quicker and uses less product. Not that SMAT uses drastically less pads than DAT, but it is possible to cut faster, using less passes, IE less heat in the pad. That can equate to 1 or 2 less compounding pads over the entire vehicle (although it just depends on other variables such as surface temp as well as ambient temps).

For that matter, I'd polish it with 205 and a green pad, at least first time by. Or, switch to Menz 2500 with a white pad to start and get it to start breaking down, then switch to a green pad to finish it down. It's harder though as if both pads are primed then one has product that hasn't started it's work cycle yet, where the other would have partially worked down product in it. Once you get the hang of it though you'll begin to 'feel' where they need to be where the product is picking up on the final stage pad where the first stage left off.

Orrrrrrrrr....... just do 205 all over and knock it out. Then to make that puppy really pop use a pair (at least) of broken in green CCS pads with 3500 as your finessing stage and it'll scream 'shine'. Honestly, I'm not sure that 3500 will do much cutting at all on Vette paint and may not even be worth the effort. Especially considering how well 1500 finishes down.

Just make VERY SURE (especially with Menzerna products) that you do your wipe downs in between stages to both remove all the product/oils/etc. as well as check your work. Eraser is your very best and life long friend there dude! :)

Then PBL glass coat that puppy and he'll be your very best life long friend! :laughing:
(I'm trying to figure out what to top PBL with now.... figure Max will have something for us soon enough.) :rolleyes:

Thanks for the detail. I appreciate the advice.
 
Hello,

Looks like you had great advice. What I can add after reading it all, is that probably you'll have to go for FG400.

Some 'keywords' like Severely Swirled, Hard Paint makes me think about it...

If you would like to try a trick (I've not fully developed it yet), do the following:

Use FG400 on a cutting pad. In the end of the cycle (when abrasives are broken down), turn off machine and switch to an 'un-primed' gray pad. Yes, a 'virgin' gray (finishing) pad.

Work the diminished abrasives for more 2-3 passes with ~4-5 speed and low pressure.

I say for you to try the un-primed pad because you won't reintroduce full abrasives again (like if you primed the pad). You'll just work the diminished abrasives towards a brilliant finish.

I've tried this with Uber Compound and worked awesome. That can even save you time, without compromising the quality of your work.

Please, do a test spot before attempting to do any of those 'tricks' on any vehicle. See how it responds in your case.

Anyway, you have all you need to get there,

Kind Regards.
 
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