What's been your bigest game changers? And why?

Eldorado2k said:
This right here, is the best tire cleaner I’ve ever witnessed. Today I bought a used Vogue whitewall tire because I’d been wanting to replace 1 and it was super dirty.

So dirty you could bearly see the whitewall. I would’ve taken a picture but some guy was being annoying and waiting for me to be next at the coin op and that’s why I didn’t take a pic.

I went to the coin op to use their power washer. Spray this foam on and let it dwell for a couple of min. and hit it with the nozzle and you’ve got perfectly clean whitewalls. Unbelievable how good this cleans without agitation. Nothing comes close. Not even Tarminator.

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I'm going to try this!
 
Finding this place 4 or so years ago and getting a solid setup for paint correction pretty early in the game had been a huge advancement for me.

More recently i would say rinseless wash. Been doing that with 1 towel per panel method for about a year and half now i think, and it has kept my paint "defect free". Not to mention quicker thatn a bucket wash. Mckees 37 is my go to

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I would have to say moving to high solids ceramic coatings was the game changer for me. I went from having to do an in-depth detail (i.e. something requiring an LSP application) of my cars every six months to doing it every 2~3 years. With the schedule I'm on, I rarely have to do that type of a job on more than one car in a single year. Not only that, but upkeep is remarkably easier. Washing is easier, drying is easier, and in some ways I don't have to wash as often with a little help from a good rain.

From a tool perspective, moving up to actually using a DA polisher might have been the closest thing to a game changer. I went from simply trying to keep things looking good by washing and applying a good LSP to actually being able to correct defects and improving the appearance of a vehicle.
 
Using a De-Ionizer with a PW is the most labor-saving combo I've used, making washing two cars alot less tiring. It'a a pleasure not having to chase water spots.
 
DanaDetailingPros said:
How did you hear about it? Or did you just give it a whirl? Also is it just an apc spray or made for engines tires etc.? If you ever did want to buy a pressure washer without spending a few hundred? I recommend the $99 Ryobi at Home Depot. I love mine and still keep it as a back up.
Amazon.com
I use a 2.5 tip and get plenty of water.
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About 10yrs. ago this guy made this video… Ever since then everyone and their mother copled him but this dude here is the originator. Nothing really wrong with copying him because it’s become worldwide knowledge among Vogue tire owners on the proper way to clean them.

If you ever need to clean whitewalls, this is the best way hands down. Check out this video.

BEST WAY TO CLEAN VOGUES / HOW TO CLEAN VOGUES - YouTube


Thanks for the PW recommendation. That’s what I’ve been looking for. Something simple that works.
 
opie said:
More recently I would say rinseless wash. Been doing that with 1 towel per panel method for about a year and half now I think, and it has kept my paint "defect free". Not to mention quicker than a bucket wash.
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Prange said:
Using a De-Ionizer with a PW is the most labor-saving combo I've used, making washing two cars alot less tiring. It'a a pleasure not having to chase water spots.
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Well, there's two different viewpoints on the same problem.

Desertnate said:
I would have to say moving to high solids ceramic coatings was the game changer for me.
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The Gyeon coatings you have mentioned recently (Mohs, Pure) are considered high-solids? The only brand I've been hearing that term used around is Armour.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
The Gyeon coatings you have mentioned recently (Mohs, Pure) are considered high-solids? The only brand I've been hearing that term used around is Armour.
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I've used the term for any of the coatings that come in a little glass bottle in order to distinguish them from the myriad of other products on the market calling themselves a "coating". I couldn't think of a better term.

Companies like CarPro and Gyeon might not use it in their product copy like Armour Detail does, but I think it fits since the products in those bottles will have far more "solids" in them compared to a product that's really just a spray sealant with some SiO2 mixed in.
 
Desertnate said:
I've used the term for any of the coatings that come in a little glass bottle in order to distinguish them from the myriad of other products on the market calling themselves a "coating".
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Well, that's interesting because I guess I was a coating "early adopter" back in the OC 2.0 day, also Opti-Lens and a little Gloss Coat. The application of the Optimum coatings were more like a WOWA, and any wiping was just to remove high spots that didn't flash off completely (at least I thought that's how you were supposed to apply it, thin). I also used the Duragloss coating once I think (I was looking at the kit the other day and the coating is still liquid, unlike the M37 that I bought when they were closing out the products here, which was solid). The only glass bottle coating I've used is DLux, and I think I only used that on trim (my DLux is still liquid too, even though I haven't used it in a long time and I think the expiration date is 2017).

I notice with the current coatings, you apply heavy, then wipe it off after a minute or two. That's how I got screwed up when I bought OPT Hyper Seal to use on a friends new car, a year or so ago, I wiped it on expecting it to flash off like OC 2.0 used to...and it didn't, so I waited too long to wipe and wound up with a sticky mess. Unless that's never how you were supposed to apply the OPT coatings, I always understood you applied them thin, they would flash and disappear, and any areas that didn't disappear you had to wipe or it would harden into a high spot.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Well, that's interesting because I guess I was a coating "early adopter" back in the OC 2.0 day, also Opti-Lens and a little Gloss Coat. The application of the Optimum coatings were more like a WOWA, and any wiping was just to remove high spots that didn't flash off completely (at least I thought that's how you were supposed to apply it, thin). I also used the Duragloss coating once I think (I was looking at the kit the other day and the coating is still liquid, unlike the M37 that I bought when they were closing out the products here, which was solid). The only glass bottle coating I've used is DLux, and I think I only used that on trim (my DLux is still liquid too, even though I haven't used it in a long time and I think the expiration date is 2017).

I notice with the current coatings, you apply heavy, then wipe it off after a minute or two. That's how I got screwed up when I bought OPT Hyper Seal to use on a friends new car, a year or so ago, I wiped it on expecting it to flash off like OC 2.0 used to...and it didn't, so I waited too long to wipe and wound up with a sticky mess. Unless that's never how you were supposed to apply the OPT coatings, I always understood you applied them thin, they would flash and disappear, and any areas that didn't disappear you had to wipe or it would harden into a high spot.
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I've found Hyper Seal to take much longer to flash away than GC and OS. BUT - it was designed to be sprayed on and wiped off.

The sprayer releases quite a bit of product. I've put some in an old GC syringe, which allows for a more GC lokd application process. I've been really happy with tha6 product too. I have it on my mom's car, by best friend's mom's car, the passenger side of my truck, and on my cousin's car. All of them are super glossy under any dirt on the surface, and they all repel water well. I've also used it at work. I even got high spots when attempting a second coat on a customer vehicle.
 
dlc95 said:
I've found Hyper Seal to take much longer to flash away than GC and OS. BUT - it was designed to be sprayed on and wiped off.
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That's what I was saying--back in the OC 2.0 days, if you had to wipe anything off you put on too much. But today it seems like you have to wipe off, and expect to throw out your wipe-off towel, or a few of them. Maybe not with the sprays, but with the "glass bottle" coatings. I've always applied Gloss Coat the way I did OC 2.0 or Opti-Lens. Anyway, back to game changers.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Well, that's interesting because I guess I was a coating "early adopter" back in the OC 2.0 day, also Opti-Lens and a little Gloss Coat. The application of the Optimum coatings were more like a WOWA, and any wiping was just to remove high spots that didn't flash off completely (at least I thought that's how you were supposed to apply it, thin). I also used the Duragloss coating once I think (I was looking at the kit the other day and the coating is still liquid, unlike the M37 that I bought when they were closing out the products here, which was solid). The only glass bottle coating I've used is DLux, and I think I only used that on trim (my DLux is still liquid too, even though I haven't used it in a long time and I think the expiration date is 2017).
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The history of some of these products is interesting. I never used the original Optimum coatings, but I did use the original Blackfire Coating and the second gen McKee's coatings. Neither came in a glass bottle, but both would harden up an applicator due to all the solids on the product. The McKee's would spray onto an applicator, flash like most coatings today after a couple minutes, and then wipe off. The Blackfire product was a nightmare and I think some of it was because it didn't come in a bottle to properly seal up. It hardened while spreading it on and nearly impossible to remove. Both lasted about two years.

Some of the bottle products will last quite a while in the bottles if you keep the lid on tight. I've got a bottle of 2~3 year-old CQUK and a 1 year-old MOHS EVO left over from other applications. They do have some solid crystals forming around the top when I take the lid off. One thing I noticed from those when I use them on something like wheels years after being opened is they flash really fast and/or are harder to spread around.

To me all of these are symptoms of the chemistry and the amount of solids. It helps my brain distinguish them from something that sprays on and only lasts a few months vs years.

I notice with the current coatings, you apply heavy, then wipe it off after a minute or two. That's how I got screwed up when I bought OPT Hyper Seal to use on a friends new car, a year or so ago, I wiped it on expecting it to flash off like OC 2.0 used to...and it didn't, so I waited too long to wipe and wound up with a sticky mess. Unless that's never how you were supposed to apply the OPT coatings, I always understood you applied them thin, they would flash and disappear, and any areas that didn't disappear you had to wipe or it would harden into a high spot.
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With many of the coatings today, it varies on how thick you apply them and flash is is all dependent on the coating. With CQUK (both 2.0 and 3.0) I apply it pretty thin. I can do a mid-sized sedan with only 15mL or so. However the Gyeon Pure EVO goes on pretty thick and I used nearly 20mL on my tiny BRZ. A mid-sized sedan might take the whole 30mL. However, I did our MDX with Mohs EVO and used about 30mL. I'd say Mohs is thicker than CQUK, but thinner than CQUK. Flash times are all over the place. Each generation of CQUK seems to have a longer flash time. Pure EVO flashes at the speed of CQUK 2.0, while Mohs EVO doesn't flash at all. It does this weird sweat bead thing almost instantly. It's essentially wipe on, wipe off.
 
Eldorado2k said:
About 10yrs. ago this guy made this video… Ever since then everyone and their mother copled him but this dude here is the originator. Nothing really wrong with copying him because it’s become worldwide knowledge among Vogue tire owners on the proper way to clean them.

If you ever need to clean whitewalls, this is the best way hands down. Check out this video.

BEST WAY TO CLEAN VOGUES / HOW TO CLEAN VOGUES - YouTube


Thanks for the PW recommendation. That’s what I’ve been looking for. Something simple that works.
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Can't beat the Ryobi. One of it's best features is that it doesn't take up a ton of space.

My first one made it just before the 3 year mark before it started cycling without you pulling the trigger (internal wear I'm guessing would cause enough of a pressure drop it would kick on to bring pressure back up); if I had been on top of things I shoulda sent it in since they do a 3 year warranty. Went another year or two still functioning perfectly fine (output wise), it's just annoying to have it cycle all by itself.

After debating if I get another "disposable" one ($), go mid-tier and get the Active($$), or go big boy and get a "forever" pressure washer you can maintain and replace parts ($$$), I decided to just re-up and get another baby Ryobi (now rated at 1800psi/1.2GPM, up from 1600/1.2, though YouTube dude said they test about the exact same). My first one is now at work for pressure washing belly pans and underbody panels when we de-grease underhood after repairs.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Well, there's two different viewpoints on the same problem.



The Gyeon coatings you have mentioned recently (Mohs, Pure) are considered high-solids? The only brand I've been hearing that term used around is Armour.
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Any glass bottle “ceramic” coating like CqUK3 and pure Evo are.

High solids means it has a high ceramic content. I’ve seen ones as high as 90%.

From what I understand doesn’t mean bottle is 90% but what is left behind after solvents evaporate is 90% ceramic.

Not sure if Mohs Evo is Ceramics c based. I believe polysilazne and fluorine do the heavy lifting in that one


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Here is an example of the Tornador max. I understand it's not practical for hobbyist detailers. It does taking getting use to if you do detail and your on the clock. Feel free to ask any questions If you might want to add it to your arsenal. If you feel it's not your cup of tea I get that:)
TMax - YouTube
Tornador Max - YouTube
 
I don't detail any cars except my own ....and they all are relatively clean. DDP. Watched the vid....all that atomized overspray......it would drive me nutz.

Mats are literally the dirtiest part of any car...I would have taken them out away from the interior and wash them away from the car with door closed...
Different strokes for different folks I suppose


Wipedowns, suction, extraction in the realm of all things interior detailing wise ...is more my thing
 
DDP -

No flame intended. As I was looking at the linked vid, all I saw was overspray and spotting the passenger side AC vent and just wondering how much of that atomized overspray was getting in and not getting out....those ducts are not going to clean themselves.
 
DDP. I missed the replies. Why takedown the original reply: replies or video.

I did say no flame. Maybe it was small constructive feedback I was trying to nudge. Or just my POV why the tornador is not my thing...

Now I look like the silly one with the edited takedowns
 
chefwong said:
I don't detail any cars except my own ....and they all are relatively clean. DDP. Watched the vid....all that atomized overspray......it would drive me nutz.

Mats are literally the dirtiest part of any car...I would have taken them out away from the interior and wash them away from the car with door closed...
Different strokes for different folks I suppose


Wipedowns, suction, extraction in the realm of all things interior detailing wise ...is more my thing
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Understand this was for demo and the camera was on a tripod. That's why I get so angry about the comments. I'm just doing a demo on the gun and not detailing a customers car!
 
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