What's the best Clay bar?

Another vote for the Nanoskin Mitt and block. I also used the Glide for the lubricating agent.
 
brehkop said:
I am looking for the best and easiest Clay bar to use. Any suggestions my fellow car enthusiast?
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Are you claying to remove a specific type of contaminate or just the typical road and airborne fallout?

The best clay bar is the one that doesn't get dropped on the garage floor, but you'd likely want a mild clay bar if it's just for routine claying. If on the other hand, you'd be removing heavy contamination like paint overspray etc. you might be better suited with a medium or aggressive clay bar.
 
HD.Detailing said:
In the USA, a clay bar is a clay bar. the only difference is the grade. It does not matter if a certain company sells it.. All companies buy from the same place and label it their own.
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I don't think that statement holds true anymore since the clay patent expired. To the best of my knowledge Ricardo wasn't available in the U.S., and Optimum didn't start offering their clay bar until after the patent expired. That tells me that there possibly are some differences besides the aggressiveness.

As far as the Nanoskin Autoscrub and the S.M. Arnold towels, stick with the fine grade. And make sure you have plenty of lubrication, and don't apply more pressure than necessary. This will help mitigate marring. For soft clear coat, dark paint, and doing small area decontamination, I usually reach for Pinnacle's ultra fine poly-clay. I haven't used any other brands' fine grade to compare it to but, for me on maintained vehicles, I prefer it over rubberized clay alternatives. I also like the ability to feel the surface become smooth and see what contamination is coming off the paint onto the clay; the autoscrub and S.M. Arnold towels don't allow you to feel the paint as well IMO.
Now if you are doing larger, flatter, heavily contaminated panels then there is now beating the Autosrub on a DA. Or if you have some very stubborn bonded contaminates, like oxidized iron particles, then again the Autoscrub is going to be the best choice.
If you have the money then maybe a fine/ultra fine clay bar, a fine S.M. Arnold towel or a Nanoskin product, and a Optimum eraser.
 
Since my cars are never heavily contaminated, I have only used mild clays up till now.

The two clays that I have found to be the best are:

Pinnacle’s Ultra Poly Clay is the single finest clay composition available today. Use auto Detailing clay to deep clean car paint, glass and chrome.
Riccardo Yellow Detailing Clay

HD.Detailing said:
In the USA, a clay bar is a clay bar. the only difference is the grade. It does not matter if a certain company sells it.. All companies buy from the same place and label it their own.
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Even before the patent expired this wasn't exactly true: companies had clay designed to their own specifications and those could vary a bit.
 
Yeah, that seems like what Meg's and Mother's had done for their clays.
 
ShaunD said:
I don't think that statement holds true anymore since the clay patent expired. To the best of my knowledge Ricardo wasn't available in the U.S., and Optimum didn't start offering their clay bar until after the patent expired. That tells me that there possibly are some differences besides the aggressiveness.

As far as the Nanoskin Autoscrub and the S.M. Arnold towels, stick with the fine grade. And make sure you have plenty of lubrication, and don't apply more pressure than necessary. This will help mitigate marring. For soft clear coat, dark paint, and doing small area decontamination, I usually reach for Pinnacle's ultra fine poly-clay. I haven't used any other brands' fine grade to compare it to but, for me on maintained vehicles, I prefer it over rubberized clay alternatives. I also like the ability to feel the surface become smooth and see what contamination is coming off the paint onto the clay; the autoscrub and S.M. Arnold towels don't allow you to feel the paint as well IMO.
Now if you are doing larger, flatter, heavily contaminated panels then there is now beating the Autosrub on a DA. Or if you have some very stubborn bonded contaminates, like oxidized iron particles, then again the Autoscrub is going to be the best choice.
If you have the money then maybe a fine/ultra fine clay bar, a fine S.M. Arnold towel or a Nanoskin product, and a Optimum eraser.
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Nanoskin products are more expensive upfront but wayyyyy cheaper in the long run if you think about how many uses you get out of them.
 
Thanks everyone for all your input. I'm definitely trying the mitt and need to find somewhere that carries Clay magic.
 
I use the Nanoskin mitt, and still use clay as well for wheels and lower valences where you tend to have a lot more contaminants.
 
ShaunD said:
I don't think that statement holds true anymore since the clay patent expired. To the best of my knowledge Ricardo wasn't available in the U.S., and Optimum didn't start offering their clay bar until after the patent expired. That tells me that there possibly are some differences besides the aggressiveness.

As far as the Nanoskin Autoscrub and the S.M. Arnold towels, stick with the fine grade. And make sure you have plenty of lubrication, and don't apply more pressure than necessary. This will help mitigate marring. For soft clear coat, dark paint, and doing small area decontamination, I usually reach for Pinnacle's ultra fine poly-clay. I haven't used any other brands' fine grade to compare it to but, for me on maintained vehicles, I prefer it over rubberized clay alternatives. I also like the ability to feel the surface become smooth and see what contamination is coming off the paint onto the clay; the autoscrub and S.M. Arnold towels don't allow you to feel the paint as well IMO.
Now if you are doing larger, flatter, heavily contaminated panels then there is now beating the Autosrub on a DA. Or if you have some very stubborn bonded contaminates, like oxidized iron particles, then again the Autoscrub is going to be the best choice.
If you have the money then maybe a fine/ultra fine clay bar, a fine S.M. Arnold towel or a Nanoskin product, and a Optimum eraser.
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Excellent - Thank you! :)

fwiw:
When I used the Nanoskin Autoscrub on very dark green (Emarald Mica 18J), I used the fine grade and applied NO pressure, very low speed (1 maybe?). It worked fine. I used lots of lube on the pad and on the car. I have the small manual medium grade Nanoskin pad, and it is too aggressive, imo, leaves some marring. Maybe I'll try it in the shower stall sometime, but regardless, it was way cheaper, so no worries.

I used Clay Magic and loved it compared to Meguiar's and Mother's. I said earlier that Mother's was softer than Meg's, but I think I got that backwards - last fall - can't remember. Regardless, Clay Magic rocks and I found it at the local NAPA Paint Supply store. Their regular auto parts store didn't carry it, and it was cheaper than online by a lot.
 
brehkop said:
Thanks everyone for all your input. I'm definitely trying the mitt and need to find somewhere that carries Clay magic.
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I found Clay Magic at the local NAPA Auto Parts and Paint Supply store. The NAPA Auto Parts store didn't carry it. (see my post above)
 
artofdetailing said:
Nanoskin products are more expensive upfront but wayyyyy cheaper in the long run if you think about how many uses you get out of them.
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i bought the 6 inch on the da. used it once and loved it. how many cars do u think u can do with it? and when will u know its time for another one?
 
Bilt Hambler..........you can use water as a lubricant.
 
The insert with the Nanoskin Autoscrub says 50-80 uses. I haven't worn one out yet, but I'm assuming that when it gets worn down to the point there's no texture, and the edges around the circumference is showing the foam underneath, then it's probably time to replace it. As long as there is some polymer rubber there it will probably work, just not as efficiently as when there was more material.
 
ShaunD said:
The insert with the Nanoskin Autoscrub says 50-80 uses. I haven't worn one out yet, but I'm assuming that when it gets worn down to the point there's no texture, and the edges around the circumference is showing the foam underneath, then it's probably time to replace it. As long as there is some polymer rubber there it will probably work, just not as efficiently as when there was more material.
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You guys are really selling me on Nanoskin...got some links to the products?
 
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