Whats the Best Way to Fix This?

Josh@BR

Josh@BR

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I don't ever come across wheels this bad but when I do vigorous scrubbing with pure wheel cleaner concentrate doesn't do anything. I'm pretty sure a wire brush will scratch the clear coat pretty bad. I know this is caused from brake dust just sitting on the clear and becoming corrosive while exposed to heat. My question is what's the best and most cost effective way to fix this. Thank you!

IMAG0053.jpg
 
Acid wheel cleaner will be the easiest--you could try clay but it will be hard to get down into that corner.
 
Cool thank you! Does anyone know if AG sells any popular acid based wheel cleaners?
 
Check out this thread real quick, just so you know what you are getting into.

Acid is nasty stuff and I really think you should explore all other possibilities like the clay or some compound with a powerball first.

But, to be completely honest acid would be the "quickest". Kinda a quick and dirty approach, but sometimes that is all that works.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...d-not-always-bad-thing-still-hate-though.html
 
Ok, since tfuller brought it up...I sometimes get accused of being a weanie for decrying HF-based wheel cleaners. Many acid wheel cleaners are HF (hydrofluoric acid) based. Many will say they are not HF when in fact they contain a close relative, ammonium bifluoride. I would really discourage people from using these types of wheel cleaners, unless they have the proper chemicals to neutralize the HF.

There ARE non-HF acid wheel cleaners, and they don't work as well. Meg's used to have a citric acid-based that really didn't do much. I have been using a Valugard product that is non-HF acid that works pretty well.

I agree with tfuller that trying a plastic razor blade or clay or some compound on a polishing bob or what-have-you is worth a try. Hey..wait a minnit...sorry I didn't think of this...here's a safe(er) wheel cleaner that may do the trick! SONAX Wheel Cleaner, all wheel cleaner, chrome wheel cleaner, aluminum wheel cleaner, full effect wheel cleaner I really haven't had too much luck with it for etched-in brake dust, but it's worth a shot...maybe in combination with a plastic blade and a brush...
 
Thanks for the info guys! I was checking out the P21S gel that they say you can leave sit on wheels for a very long time. Maybe it could break it down if I leave it sit on there for a day lol
 
Griots makes a wheel clay bar you may want to look into that as well.
 
After my drive down here from New York, my wheels were in bad shape. Not as bad as this but pretty close. I had some good luck with the Griot's Wheel Clay. It requires some elbow grease but it got the job done.

I never really gave anything else a try like leaving a cleaner on for a long time. I would definitely give the Sonax Full Effect a try before stepping up to a harsh acid.
 
Josh@BR said:
Thanks for the info guys! I was checking out the P21S gel that they say you can leave sit on wheels for a very long time. Maybe it could break it down if I leave it sit on there for a day lol
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I wouldn't have too much hope that P21 is going to break that down. I'd try that Sonax, clay, plastic razor blade, and some time. Make sure to put some sealant on them when you get them clean and try to clean them regularly (just car wash soap should be ok after you get them clean and sealed, maybe at a little extra strength).
 
Hey Josh,

From here it does looks like brake dust. What may have happened it the dust particles became so hot they may have become embedded into the clear coat. While it may be possible to dislodge some you might find that the wheel needs to be refinished in order to completely repair it damage.
 
BobbyG said:
While it may be possible to dislodge some you might find that the wheel needs to be refinished in order to completely repair it damage.
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Yeah, that too. There's a corrosive effect from the brake dust and galvanic action that can occur between the ferrous brake dust particles and the aluminum wheels...which tends to pit the paint and etch the aluminum...so after you remove that stuff the finish may not look perfect underneath.
 
BobbyG said:
Hey Josh,

From here it does looks like brake dust. What may have happened it the dust particles became so hot they may have become embedded into the clear coat. While it may be possible to dislodge some you might find that the wheel needs to be refinished in order to completely repair it damage.
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Yeah I figured the clear coat has been damaged already but anything to make the dark black dust particles less noticeable would be great. I hate having to explain to customers why I'm unable to fix or clean the wheels perfectly. I know its not my fault or anything but its very noticeabe(to me at least) and looks like I did a half ass job on the wheels.
 
Josh@BR said:
Thanks for the info guys! I was checking out the P21S gel that they say you can leave sit on wheels for a very long time. Maybe it could break it down if I leave it sit on there for a day lol
Click to expand...

This is what I would do. Spray some P21S wheel gel on there for maybe 3-4 hours and then scrub the wheel again and see if it removed. I worked on some pretty bad old BMW rims with some caked on brake dust. It didnt come clean 100%, but the results were pretty substantial and the P21S was only dwelling for about 45 minutes. Here is a before and after.

DSC06698.jpg


DSC06839.jpg
 
Thanks VW 91 I may give that a try then. I have noticed that older BMW and SAAB wheels have this problem a good bit.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Ok, since tfuller brought it up...I sometimes get accused of being a weanie for decrying HF-based wheel cleaners. Many acid wheel cleaners are HF (hydrofluoric acid) based. Many will say they are not HF when in fact they contain a close relative, ammonium bifluoride. I would really discourage people from using these types of wheel cleaners, unless they have the proper chemicals to neutralize the HF.

There ARE non-HF acid wheel cleaners, and they don't work as well. Meg's used to have a citric acid-based that really didn't do much. I have been using a Valugard product that is non-HF acid that works pretty well.

I agree with tfuller that trying a plastic razor blade or clay or some compound on a polishing bob or what-have-you is worth a try. Hey..wait a minnit...sorry I didn't think of this...here's a safe(er) wheel cleaner that may do the trick! SONAX Wheel Cleaner, all wheel cleaner, chrome wheel cleaner, aluminum wheel cleaner, full effect wheel cleaner I really haven't had too much luck with it for etched-in brake dust, but it's worth a shot...maybe in combination with a plastic blade and a brush...
Click to expand...

What about a wheel cleaner that contains a low amount (1-3%) of 2 Butoxy Ethanol and Oxalic Acid with a pH 2-3 rating?
 
I had an 05 STi and the wheels were constantly getting covered like that if I didn't clean them weekly and keep them waxed or some sort of protectant on them(303). I found that whatever clay and wheel cleaner would not remove a red/maroon 3M Scotchbrite would get the brake dust and rotor metal off and out of the clear coat. Just make sure you use a lubricant when you get down to the small specs of contaminant, as not to scratch the wheel. Compounding afterwards should take away any marring. I never used any acids on mine, but did use a little brake cleaner and the Scotchbrite, and it seemed to work OK. Was the brake dust and metal particles from the stock brake and rotors settles in on those wheels it hard to get it all off. An aggressive clay does a good job but does take more elbow grease; but it is the safest method with no chemicals needed, just lubrication. What have you used to clean your Subie wheels? Looks like that car needs new pads by the way the caliper and wheels are coated. jmo
 
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rwright said:
Considering I quoted your opinion on acid wheel cleaners, what is your opinion about using this type of wheel cleaner?
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Those oxalic acid ones are fine (not that you want to play around with any acid; I once said something to someone about sulphuric acid being "safe" and he pulled up his sleeve and showed me a huge acid burn scar...but we're talking about industrial concentrations, not diluted like in your wheel cleaner). The thing about the HF and ABF cleaners is they are difficult to neutralize and require something with calcium in them to bond to the fluorine (calcium gluconate paste is the recommended thing to apply to an HF acid burn) otherwise the acid will go "hunting" in your body for some calcium, i.e., your bones.

Disclaimer: I may not have that exactly right since I'm not a ChemE, I only play one on TV.
 
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