What's the next step for better polishing results? 23 yr old ride

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jay23ls

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Whats up Autogeek. I've polished HALF of my car like this:


  • Griot's clay bar (didn't know about Iron SkunX until I joined forum)
  • Megs Ultimate Compound
  • Griots orange foam correction pad
  • Griot's random orb - 5.5 inch adapter (standard is 6 inch)
  • 3 to 3.5 speed, goes up to 5 or 6

So I chose a low speed bc its my first time polishin w/ a machine and I can't measure my clear coat. Those tools are really expensive for fiberglass body cars :cry: Got an old school Vette

The half of the car that is polished, I thought was 95ish% corrected, its more like 85/90. That's why I'm making this thread, I could use some advice before I hit the other half... :buffing:

This is the unpolished - same spot, same time of day but w/ light captured differently by the cam:


View attachment 53001

View attachment 53002

What do you guys think? Higher speed, more aggressive compound like M105, more aggressive pad? Aiming for at least 95% all around! Thanks
 
I am assuming that you haven't owned it the entire time or know the history and can't easily measure that paint thickness (perhaps there's a member near you that can).

You desire 95% correction but don't know the paint thickness. I think this is a question in and of itself, and the compound and machine speed are completely unrelated to this issue.

Some risk exists, and without the vehicle history, this risk is difficult to quantify. You'll have to judge for yourself if it is worth it. You could look at edges and raised body lines to look for thinned paint. You can look for rotary holograms to see if it has been hacked before. You could use a cheaper paint thickness gauge and measure a piece of painted metal (perhaps the hood or door hinges if they are body color) to get a feel for how much paint the car had originally.

But regardless, because fiberglass dissipated heat much slower than metal, I feel it's better to change products rather than machine, pressure or arm speed, which will all increase heat substantially in your situation.
 
Audios S6 said:
I am assuming that you haven't owned it the entire time or know the history and can't easily measure that paint thickness (perhaps there's a member near you that can).

You desire 95% correction but don't know the paint thickness. I think this is a question in and of itself, and the compound and machine speed are completely unrelated to this issue.

Some risk exists, and without the vehicle history, this risk is difficult to quantify. You'll have to judge for yourself if it is worth it. You could look at edges and raised body lines to look for thinned paint. You can look for rotary holograms to see if it has been hacked before. You could use a cheaper paint thickness gauge and measure a piece of painted metal (perhaps the hood or door hinges if they are body color) to get a feel for how much paint the car had originally.

But regardless, because fiberglass dissipated heat much slower than metal, I feel it's better to change products rather than machine, pressure or arm speed, which will all increase heat substantially in your situation.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I'll have to ask the guys on the corvette forum if the entire body is fiberglass.

And about that 95%, I've been looking at the polished half and honestly once the wax goes on (which I'll be replacing w/ a Mernz deep polish and coat or sealant), it hides the last 5% unless you're nose is almost at the car or you're at a perfect lighting angle. Love the car but its not a show car so I will probably be happy w/ the 85/90 I got. I'll see once this thread gets a couple more responses.
 
My thread was down for a week due to forum technical issues. Bumpy bump!
 
Sometimes when the history is unknown, it best to look at the Glaze products to fill some of the remaining swirls. Then top it with a quality sealant.
 
Stick with the Ultimate Compound. Crank that polisher up to speed 4.5-5 and apply med. downward pressure and move the polisher across the paint without staying in the same spot for too long.

Do 4 side to side passes, followed by 4 up and down passes, and 4 more side to side passes. Covering an area of about 20"x20"
Wipe off with a microfiber towel and check your results. If it goes as expected your paint should be where you want it. Once you've gotten that over with, that's as aggressive as you're going to get with your paint from here on out. And once you do, you'll see there's probably nothing to be afraid of. Good luck.
 
Based upon your original post I'm not sure what your experince level.

That being said, the most important first step of any correction process is to always start with a "TEST SPOT". This is a theme you will find posted on this forum many times over.

Is the second picture after you attempted to polish out the swirls?

This is a 1993 Corvette?

What's the overall condition of the vehicle?

So far as speed, correction speed 5-6 is what I always run at .

If I remember correctly Mike P did a write op on a Vette of that generation, try searching the froum under Vette or his posts.

Here's an 02 the guz did, it's a great detialed write up and an mazing job!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ck-c5-corvette-coated-optimum-gloss-coat.html
 
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