What's your pre-wax preferance?

I know it's off topic for this thread but thought you all would like to know I got a package in the mail! Yay. I got some Griot's Wheel Cleaner, Opti-bond, UTTG, 12 black microfiber towels and they threw in a bonus of 2 christmas microfibers! Thanks for the extra towels guys! :props:

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It is perfectly fine under sealants. CG EZ creme is an acrylic based sealant so it is a perfect base for either a sealant or wax. The same for AG as it is a AIO sealant with lots of fillers. I haven't had the opportunity to try the new Glossworkz. In fact, I didn't even know it was available already. Where did you pick it up?

I stopped by their warehouse store in LA in November. I have not seen it on their website except in one of their packages.
 
I want something with "polishing oils", e.g. Menzerna or Meg's Mirror Glaze finishing polishes before applying a carnuba

For sealants I use an AIO type product, e.g. KAIO or OPS as a base

Meguiar's #7 or 3M Imperial Hand Glaze

Many years ago, I bought into the concept of using a hand glaze to "nourish" the paint and add oils with a hand glaze before applying a wax. I used Megs #7 and OG Omega Glaze to add gloss, nourish the paint and fill minor defects. I never got around to trying 3M Imperial Glaze even though some would say it's one of the best.

Since this "nourish the paint" concept seems "on topic" for a pre-wax preference thread and in my mind IPA removes these "oils", does "nourish" make sense in a clear coat world?
 
I think that glazes were originally meant for single stage paint finishes

Though I've used them on clearcoat finishes with good results, but when using a sealant after Megs #7, wont the sealant have bonding issues??
 
I think that glazes were originally meant for single stage paint finishes

Though I've used them on clearcoat finishes with good results, but when using a sealant after Megs #7, wont the sealant have bonding issues??
Check out this thread, sohail. I have SS paint so do you think I should use a glaze such as EZ creme?
 
Yea! I read it, but since the glaze starts to wear off quite quickly lead me to believe that it somehow didnt let the sealant bond and everything was just washed off.

Glazes which have a acrylic sealant in them are better and dont have bonding issues with sealants IMO(Such as EZ creme glaze, Prima Amigo etc.)
 
Yea! I read it, but since the glaze starts to wear off quite quickly lead me to believe that it somehow didnt let the sealant bond and everything was just washed off.

Glazes which have a acrylic sealant in them are better and dont have bonding issues with sealants IMO(Such as EZ creme glaze, Prima Amigo etc.)
So after removing swirls and scratches and such, I should polish, IPA, then glaze with EZ creme, seal, and wax? Or should I skip the IPA?

Here's products I have picked:
XMT Intermediate Swirl Remover 3
Menzerna PO85RD
EZ Glaze
DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant
Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue
 
Generally, if you've polished the surface to perfection, you don't need a glaze and you can straight away seal the paint.

Glaze are basically oil rich fillers which mask minor swirls or haze and make the surface look glossy and just polished.

They should be used in place of final polishing or if you want, you can final polish the paint with PO85RD and then use EZ glaze.

IPA will be needed to strip all the oils left behind by polishing.

Again, you can directly go to LSP after you've achieved a totally swirl and haze free finish.

But you can always experiment with EZ glaze to see if it does make a difference in appearance of the paint (apply on one panel as per directions, and after removing, compare for any differences between the glazed paint and bare paint.

EDIT - I haven't used EZ creme glaze on a SS paint finish. As far as I've read, it should make quite a difference on SS paints!
 
Well I've read that glazes are good for them. I think I'll remove swirls and stuff, polish, use some IPA, then glaze to give it gloss. Afterwards, use paint sealant and use Natty's LB as the icing on the cake!:buffing:
 
EDIT - I haven't used EZ creme glaze on a SS paint finish. As far as I've read, it should make quite a difference on SS paints!

I own CG EZ creme glaze and use it because it's nearly effortless, but honestly I don't see that it adds anything.

Another product (along with its cousin ... DWG) that didn't live up to its hype
 
^Perfect!!

Do post pics!! :D
Will do sir! Once it gets spring time I'm breaking out the DA! Making an order soon probably as I just got a 20% New Year's discount email!
 
I own CG EZ creme glaze and use it because it's nearly effortless, but honestly I don't see that it adds anything.

Another product (along with its cousin ... DWG) that didn't live up to its hype
Do you use it on SS paint?
 
no ... just an intermediate step between polishing & applying a wax, usually #26
Well from what I've read, glazes were originally meant for SS paints, which is what I have. You may not get great results on clear coat with a glaze but that doesn't necessarily mean that you'll get those same results on single stage paint. Am I right?:confused:
 
Thanks for posting that seajay, it had a lot of good info. Now I'm kinda confused on what to do lol. I think I'll do ipa wipedowns followed by p21s paint cleaner.



I have been told that an IPA is not great for the paint. Check with Mike.
 
I like Meguiars myself, I have had no problems using any of their Products
 
So after removing swirls and scratches and such, I should polish, IPA, then glaze with EZ creme, seal, and wax? Or should I skip the IPA?

Here's products I have picked:
XMT Intermediate Swirl Remover 3
Menzerna PO85RD
EZ Glaze
DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant
Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue

Generally, if you've polished the surface to perfection, you don't need a glaze and you can straight away seal the paint.

Glaze are basically oil rich fillers which mask minor swirls or haze and make the surface look glossy and just polished.

They should be used in place of final polishing or if you want, you can final polish the paint with PO85RD and then use EZ glaze.

IPA will be needed to strip all the oils left behind by polishing.

Again, you can directly go to LSP after you've achieved a totally swirl and haze free finish.

But you can always experiment with EZ glaze to see if it does make a difference in appearance of the paint (apply on one panel as per directions, and after removing, compare for any differences between the glazed paint and bare paint.

EDIT - I haven't used EZ creme glaze on a SS paint finish. As far as I've read, it should make quite a difference on SS paints!

If I may offer a comment. IPA may marr some finishes (it did with a black Porsche this summer) although a few vendors recommend a squeeky clean surface or their own special cleaner before adding a sealant. If I remember correctly, the DP sealant you plan to use has a cleaner built into it that preps the paint for the sealant to bond so the IPA step may not be necessary after PO85rd anyway.

Personally, I came full circle to only using IPA to check correction after compounding/swirl removal or in situations where I need more than a spray detailer to remove M105 after correction. I actually just bought mineral spirits this week after my experience with the Porsche and may further limit my use of IPA. I primarily use WG DGPS and Fuzion after my polish/finish polish step without any issue and it eliminated any micromarring or light hazing from the IPA step.

If you really are concerned about checking correction or residual oils, a quick soap and water wash or rinseless wash with ONR should be more than sufficient to remove any fillers and oils from the compounding or polishing step.

If DP Poli-coat does remove old sealants and chemically preps the paint for bonding, there may not be much EZ creme acrylic glaze left anyway.

It doesn't mean you shouldn't try or use a glaze, but you might want to test the EZ cream in one section to see if it makes a significant difference. Since you are working with SS paint, I sort of remember that Megs #7 was supposed to nourish older, dry single stage paint and would actually absorb the oils. I'm not sure if EZ glaze as an acrylic finish will do that to the same extent as #7 but it would be very interesting to hear how it works for you.

You won't know until you try it and god knows it's been a while since I played with SS paint.

Good luck and let us know how things work out for you!
 
If I may offer a comment. IPA may marr some finishes (it did with a black Porsche this summer) although a few vendors recommend a squeeky clean surface or their own special cleaner before adding a sealant. If I remember correctly, the DP sealant you plan to use has a cleaner built into it that preps the paint for the sealant to bond so the IPA step may not be necessary after PO85rd anyway.

Personally, I came full circle to only using IPA to check correction after compounding/swirl removal or in situations where I need more than a spray detailer to remove M105 after correction. I actually just bought mineral spirits this week after my experience with the Porsche and may further limit my use of IPA. I primarily use WG DGPS and Fuzion after my polish/finish polish step without any issue and it eliminated any micromarring or light hazing from the IPA step.

If you really are concerned about checking correction or residual oils, a quick soap and water wash or rinseless wash with ONR should be more than sufficient to remove any fillers and oils from the compounding or polishing step.

If DP Poli-coat does remove old sealants and chemically preps the paint for bonding, there may not be much EZ creme acrylic glaze left anyway.

It doesn't mean you shouldn't try or use a glaze, but you might want to test the EZ cream in one section to see if it makes a significant difference. Since you are working with SS paint, I sort of remember that Megs #7 was supposed to nourish older, dry single stage paint and would actually absorb the oils. I'm not sure if EZ glaze as an acrylic finish will do that to the same extent as #7 but it would be very interesting to hear how it works for you.

You won't know until you try it and god knows it's been a while since I played with SS paint.

Good luck and let us know how things work out for you!
Definitely don't wanna waste money on things I'm not gonna use or mess anything up. So, no IPA for me and I'm considering just ditching the glaze all in all. My paint I wouldn't consider "dry" It's been up kept since the day it came off the lot in '91. To save money and possibly just not needing it, I'm ditching the glaze and p21s both probably.
How's this whole process sound for a whole detail?

Wash with Dawn.
Dry.
Clay.
XMT Swirl Remover
Menzerna Polish
DP Paint Sealant
Natty's Blue
 
Now I'm confused, again. lol. I don't want to use IPA on a regular basis so how's this sound?

XMT Scratch Remover
Menzerna Finishing Polish
EZ Creme Glaze
DP Paint Sealant
Natty's Blue

When I don't have to polish or anything and am reapplying paint sealant and natty's blue both, use p21s before hand?

If the paint is in great shape, you should be able to keep it simple unless you are competing at the concourse level or the OCD affliction has totally overtaken you.
  1. Certainly you can use a total body wash like P21S. I use CG Citrus Wash and Gloss because it relatively cheap, removes the old wax and may not dry out the paint and plastic trim as much as dish soap has a reputation.
  2. Next, check to see if you need to clay (baby butt smooth, move on).
  3. Since you are using the DP sealant, you can then choose to either reapply your DP sealant which preps the paint for you or use a prewax paint cleaner if you want to remove any oxidation or contamination and add a little extra gloss.
    • P21s, Pinnacle, Dodo, Wolfgang, Four Star, Ultima, etc all make great prewax paint cleaners so you have many choices.
 
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