Wheel Help

DogRescuer

DogRescuer

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These are pics of my latest battle against grime. The first two pics are the wheels untouched. The second is after 2 scrubbings with an APC and 1 scrub with Iron x. Any tips on getting them real clean. d140?
 
I would hit it again with iron x. If it's pitted it will need to be refurbished. The paint seems to be in rough shape.
 
wheel brightener at 1:10 dilution (1 part wb:10 parts water), spray, wait 5 seconds, agitate, rinse off
 
1:4 dilution still gives and insanely strong mixture imo...i cleaned the wheels on a neglected 02 f350 and it took only 2 applications at 1:10 to get them 100 percent clean...i cant imagine every needing it a 1:4, let alone full strength.
 
cplchris said:
wheel brightener at 1:10 dilution (1 part wb:10 parts water), spray, wait 5 seconds, agitate, rinse off
Click to expand...
-Spray...how is any errant-mist controlled?
-Wait 5 seconds...OK.
-Then agitate...for how long? Before:
-Rinsing-off...To what location(s) does this effluent rinse-off?

Why no mention of PPE...?
Or braking system's components being "touched" by this product?



Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
-Spray...how is any errant-mist controlled? the same way it is dispensed...the trigger
-Wait 5 seconds...OK....i would've said longer but dwell time isn't necessary with wb
-Then agitate...for how long? as long as it takes to scrub all of the "dirty" areas of the wheel Before:
-Rinsing-off...To what location(s) does this effluent rinse-off? the ground, driveway, and eventually a storm drain...unless you have a filtration system in your garage to capture and purify the water/wb run off and pay for a company to come and pick up contaminated water the chemicals will end up on the ground at some point

Why no mention of PPE...?...PPE and warnings are on the product label
Or braking system's components being "touched" by this product?...usually when wheels are this bad i remove them from the vehicle for cleaning



Bob
Click to expand...

no need to write a book for this one, the OP asked what he could use...he didnt request a full write up.
 
cplchris said:
no need to write a book for this one, the OP asked what he could use...he didnt request a full write up.
Click to expand...
OK...So you don't want to fill-in the blanks.
That's when trouble, and possible undue harm, to the unsuspecting usually begins!

D140 is formulated for Professionals/Professional Use.
Your above response?

:rolleyes:

Bob
 
Thanks to everyone, (some things ) need common sense to use.
 
let me know how that goes. I kept one of my wheel cleaner bottles and have since put the WB in it so i can get the foaming nozzle. Works well!
 
Try Poor Boys Spray and Rinse. It is an acid base, but not as strong as WB. As Bob pointed out, it will be more user friendly for the OP. Also I haven't seen WB available for purchase in anything less than a gallon size (someone please correct if I'm wrong)
 
Andr3wilson said:
Try Poor Boys Spray and Rinse. It is an acid base, but not as strong as WB. As Bob pointed out, it will be more user friendly for the OP.
Click to expand...

+1. I just did an xterra last week with the same deposits and Pb's worked wonders. Whatever didn't spray off, I agitated with a Daytona brush and was finished.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using AG Online
 
Bob HATES Meguiar's Wheel Brightner...I think it works great if you use some common sense.

It's cheap too...$9.99 for 32oz that dilutes up to 10:1
 
From the looks of them you will probably be better having them repainted. So WB and some 000 steel wool followed by some IronX paste will probably get them clean enough for now.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online
 
I've also used LA's TA with good results. Keep it wet and prevent streaking for several minutes and the brake dust should budge at least a little more.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online
 
allenk4 said:
Bob HATES Meguiar's Wheel Brightner...I think it works great if you use some common sense.
Click to expand...
You're wrong there!

I dislike the fact that too often Professional product's warnings are not followed to the letter.
That's not common-sensible!!

All it takes is one "non-Professional mishandling" of D140 to realize that HF-acid is not a fluff product.

That's not my hating of this product.
That's my disclaimer from having first-hand knowledge.

And:
I'm not sorry for my being: HF-cautious...and attempting to make others aware, as well.
Sorry you find that to be not of your liking.

Bob
 
Using a foaming nozzle should help with any safety concerns. However, even with an atomizer I didn't notice anything terribly pungent.
 
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