When you do a detail, do you always claybar the glass in addition to the paint?

JoeHotRod

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Just curious to see how many out there clay bar the glass in addition to the paint when doing a detail job for a customer?

Also do you put any type of protective product or wax over the glass if you are one that does in fact clay it?

Thanks
 
Yes I always clay the glass. It takes so little time and invariably pulls off so much crud that the customer will notice the difference in water behavior.

I will also usually put a water repellent type product on. Over here in South Africa a cheap yet effective product is called Wynns C-Thru and my other alternative is a product called Insta Finish Bead Off.

The water repellent product, especially on the front and rear windows not only improves safety, but is a real WOW factor for most customers....
 
Yes I always clay the glass. It takes so little time and invariably pulls off so much crud that the customer will notice the difference in water behavior.

I will also usually put a water repellent type product on. Over here in South Africa a cheap yet effective product is called Wynns C-Thru and my other alternative is a product called Insta Finish Bead Off.

The water repellent product, especially on the front and rear windows not only improves safety, but is a real WOW factor for most customers....

I agree with claying glass when polishing, but are you saying you clay glass with "every" wwash?
 
^ LOL no.... I am saying every time I do a detail on a customers car (almost all of my details are full corrections, and only 1 per weekend) I will clay the glass as well.

On my own car, I will periodically clean/clay/polish/seal the glass, as is needed.
 
^ LOL no.... I am saying every time I do a detail on a customers car (almost all of my details are full corrections, and only 1 per weekend) I will clay the glass as well.

On my own car, I will periodically clean/clay/polish/seal the glass, as is needed.

oh thanks
 
I always clay the glass. Hover you ever felt the rear window of an SUV? Loaded with contamination.

I offer glass coatings
 
•Just like auto-paint...auto-glass also gets "The Baggie Test" prior to ever being clayed by me.

•When auto-glass claying is needed, I usually opt for one
of the many differently-"branded": Rubberized-clay-blocks.
-IMO: They seem to provide for a more efficient "claying process" on auto-glass than regular auto clays. And:
-Since auto-glass is much harder than auto-paint:
There's less trepidation of marring-up their surfaces.

Other auto-glass "decontaminators" I'll use:
•Meguiar's M04
•Bon Ami
•Barkeeper's Friend
•Glass stovetop cleaners. Note: These glass stovetop cleaning products also leave a RainX-type of water repellant on auto-glass...at a much lower price-point!
_______________________________________________

Keep in mind that:
•Decontamination of auto-glass will not improve upon, or remove, any existing blemishes that are in the auto-glass surfaces...
-That usually takes dedicated auto-glass polishes/pads,
and a polisher.


Bob
 
Generally, I wash them, then just polish without claying them if they are not too bad. This is only because it's glass and not softer paint/clear coat.
This method is cutting a corner, however sometimes there is a time crunch.
 
alway decon the glass and trim. I use Speedy Prep as i wash. I apply a spray wax to glass on all of my details
 
I decon glass anytime I decon paint. Only takes a couple minutes with the nanoskin autoscrub pad and the difference in beading is immediately noticable.
 
I decon glass anytime I decon paint. Only takes a couple minutes with the nanoskin autoscrub pad and the difference in beading is immediately noticable.

JoeHotRod,

I run a Nanoskin pad lubricated with Nano Shock on all of the glass. Makes it slick and decontaminated.

If you try Nanoskin and N Shock, I'm pretty sure you will throw the clay in the trash. IMO, one of the most amazing of the new products that has been introduced in a long time.
 
If your claying the car there is no reason not to clay all the windows.
 
Claying the windows takes very little time, so it's worth it imo. If you're doing wholesale or fleet work where every minute counts I would only clay the rear window; this is where a lot of contaminants actually bond on SUVs and wagons.
 
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