Which polisher to invest on?

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jeanjaian

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Hello. My name is Jean and I'm detailing professionally for 3 months.

I've learned all my skills on rotary polishers. I use a Dewalt rotary buffer now. But I want a lighter and smaller one. So I'm going to buy a Flex PE 14-2, which I believe to be the best polisher nowadays.

However, some professionals say that it is better to buy a forced DA polisher (Flex 3401 or Rupes 21) because of safety (for high end cars with aluminum panels) and speed of cut (?)... But my teachers told me that even these top notch DAs cannot cut as fast a rotary and it is not possible to polish corners with a DA.

Considering that the investment here is really high (I have to choose one for now), which one would you advice me to purchase?

PS: my heart is telling me to buy a PE 14-2 for its light weight and size. And I'm confident with my skills to continue with rotaries...
 
Hi Jean - let me first start by saying that I've never used a rotary to polish cars and it's always been my impression that those who do use a rotary have crazy skills. IMHO if you are already skilled and confident with a rotary, then stick to what you do best. The conservative side of me says all it takes is a simple whoops, a loss of concentration and you are smelling burnt paint (of course I may be dramatizing here). But that simple whoops could cost you future business and potentially costly repairs. Not sure I helped......
 
Don't be so biased to try different things. Don't let those long throw das fool you, they correct like Miachel Jordan on a open court.

They do struggle on curved areas but with technique and certain pads you can manage.

However a different array of tools will still be desired.

If your a rotary guy you will enjoy the 3401.

There all great machines.

I never used a pe 14 and been wanting to !

Either choice.

Boss g21
Boss g15
Rupes 21 m2
Rupes 15 m2
3401
Pe 14

Your going to be happy
 
jeanjaian said:
However, some professionals say that it is better to buy a forced DA polisher (Flex 3401 or Rupes 21) because of safety (for high end cars with aluminum panels)
Click to expand...

You always want to be careful on high-end cars, but I disagree that aluminum panels pose a "safety" hazard, the heat dissipation of aluminum is higher than steel which is higher than "plastic", so I would argue that an aluminum panel is the "safest" to buff on as far as overheating paint.

That being said, I'd go with the PE-14 that you are dreaming of.
 
Professionally for 3 months? lol..
If you haven't already I would get the new Rupes Mark II. I use the Griots 21 and its great but more of the forced rotation would be nice, especially if it doesn't get hot like the Flex does. I've been detailing for 20 plus years and my next machine will be the Rupes Mark II, probably the 15 :)
 
Cabrio said:
Hi Jean - let me first start by saying that I've never used a rotary to polish cars and it's always been my impression that those who do use a rotary have crazy skills. IMHO if you are already skilled and confident with a rotary, then stick to what you do best. The conservative side of me says all it takes is a simple whoops, a loss of concentration and you are smelling burnt paint (of course I may be dramatizing here). But that simple whoops could cost you future business and potentially costly repairs. Not sure I helped......
Click to expand...

Well, I'm not sure if I have crazy skills but I'm taking that as a compliment :D

I really endeavor to concentrate my focus on the rotating pad and the speed I am at the time. And also I start on low speed and test it up to 1600rpm for cutting. And also I keep on checking the temperature by hand. So I'm pretty sure I cannot damage the panel.

My doubt was about the material (aluminum, carbon fiber). And, again, my teachers told me it is safe with the technique I've learned. But I'm never 100% sure about what one group of people say. So I research, ask, etc.

And what about corners? I have never polished with a DA and I have no idea how it is to polish corners with a DA. You know, in my mind, they oscillate and you can't really control them in tight areas (with a 5"+ pad).
 
OP the Rupes Mark II is NOT a forced rotation DA as are none of their tools.
 
DetailProDestin said:
Professionally for 3 months? lol..
If you haven't already I would get the new Rupes Mark II. I use the Griots 21 and its great but more of the forced rotation would be nice, especially if it doesn't get hot like the Flex does. I've been detailing for 20 plus years and my next machine will be the Rupes Mark II, probably the 15 :)
Click to expand...

Yes, 3 months. I lost my job last year so I'm investing in my own business to survive.

Through your vast experience, would you say that a Forced DA is as fast as a rotary for cutting? Or is it just safer?
 
NextLevelDtail said:
Don't be so biased to try different things. Don't let those long throw das fool you, they correct like Miachel Jordan on a open court.

They do struggle on curved areas but with technique and certain pads you can manage.

However a different array of tools will still be desired.

If your a rotary guy you will enjoy the 3401.

There all great machines.

I never used a pe 14 and been wanting to !

Either choice.

Boss g21
Boss g15
Rupes 21 m2
Rupes 15 m2
3401
Pe 14

Your going to be happy
Click to expand...

Thank you. I think I'm going to try them if possible. But I'm may bet my money on the PE 14-2, 'cause maybe I'd get disappointed with the others... go figure LOL. They can be a further investment. :)
 
Setec Astronomy said:
You always want to be careful on high-end cars, but I disagree that aluminum panels pose a "safety" hazard, the heat dissipation of aluminum is higher than steel which is higher than "plastic", so I would argue that an aluminum panel is the "safest" to buff on as far as overheating paint.

That being said, I'd go with the PE-14 that you are dreaming of.
Click to expand...

Thank you so much! I think these "aluminum is bad for polishing" guys are just wanting to sell detailing classes, you know?!

I certainly dream to have a PE 14-2. It seems so RIGHT on a detailer's hands. I watch Mike Phillips 'jeweling' a paint and I go "WOW! I wanna polish like that"! Despite the fact that it is way lighter than a DeWalt (3kg x 2,2kg) and smaller! So it is better for the job and for my health.

Cheers!
 
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The flex 14-2 is a very good winner. Have not had any problems with the unit. It does get hot as noted. It can as with all rotary units over achieve.
 
jeanjaian said:
Hello. My name is Jean and I'm detailing professionally for 3 months.

I've learned all my skills on rotary polishers. I use a Dewalt rotary buffer now. But I want a lighter and smaller one. So I'm going to buy a Flex PE 14-2, which I believe to be the best polisher nowadays.

However, some professionals say that it is better to buy a forced DA polisher (Flex 3401 or Rupes 21) because of safety (for high end cars with aluminum panels) and speed of cut (?)... But my teachers told me that even these top notch DAs cannot cut as fast a rotary and it is not possible to polish corners with a DA.

Considering that the investment here is really high (I have to choose one for now), which one would you advice me to purchase?

PS: my heart is telling me to buy a PE 14-2 for its light weight and size. And I'm confident with my skills to continue with rotaries...
Click to expand...

What are you mainly working on? Do you need to cut heavy defects or sanding marks all day long or are you trying to achieve hologram free most of the time?

If I am required to remove heavy sanding marks day in day out, a lighter rotary makes more sense to me as I find it more efficient in doing so. Not that DA cant get the job done, but until a miracle polish is invented to complements a less powered DA, rotary just does it faster.

If you are offering hologram-free type of polishing services, I would go for a DA instead as I find it easier to achieve a wider range of balance between cut and finish. If i were you, i would go for a DA first since i already have a rotary, then upgrade to a better rotary or DA in future when circumstances allow.
 
No DA long throw or forced rotation can correct like a PE-14. Its the "Beasts" Big Brother!
 
if you want the best of both (rotary and DA) worlds in one polisher then the flex 3401 (forced rotation/gear driven) would be a great choice (can use pads from 4" - 6.5" with the appropriate backing plates). if you're looking for a large throw DA then the BOSS G15/G21 would be an excellent choice as well. having different tools in your arsenal will allow you to accomplish a variety of tasks...
[ame]youtube.com/watch?v=FtpgZV9vL1A[/video]
[ame]youtube.com/watch?v=i8eIKCHq72A[/video]
 
The PE14 is a more refined DeWalt, it weights less, better ergonomics and both start at 600RPMs.
To add something new to your arsenal, I would consider a Flex 3401.
On the other hand, if you start working with a PE14, your DeWalt will end up at Craiglist.
 
zoiman said:
The flex 14-2 is a very good winner. Have not had any problems with the unit. It does get hot as noted. It can as with all rotary units over achieve.
Click to expand...

I also think that way! :D thanks
 
dschia said:
What are you mainly working on? Do you need to cut heavy defects or sanding marks all day long or are you trying to achieve hologram free most of the time?

If I am required to remove heavy sanding marks day in day out, a lighter rotary makes more sense to me as I find it more efficient in doing so. Not that DA cant get the job done, but until a miracle polish is invented to complements a less powered DA, rotary just does it faster.

If you are offering hologram-free type of polishing services, I would go for a DA instead as I find it easier to achieve a wider range of balance between cut and finish. If i were you, i would go for a DA first since i already have a rotary, then upgrade to a better rotary or DA in future when circumstances allow.
Click to expand...

Actually, I am required to do all kinds of jobs. I work on my own studio. So I get very neglected paints all the time, specially because here the culture of detailing is not a habit.

So I cut with rotary, and also eliminate the holograms by using Menzerna 2500 and 4000, focusing on a perfect, spotless finish (all with rotary).

Some part of me tells me that a DA would be an unnecessary spend. And a PE 14-2 would be better when talking about ergonomics and health...
 
RPM_BR said:
The PE14 is a more refined DeWalt, it weights less, better ergonomics and both start at 600RPMs.
To add something new to your arsenal, I would consider a Flex 3401.
On the other hand, if you start working with a PE14, your DeWalt will end up at Craiglist.
Click to expand...

I was thinking on keeping the DeWalt as a backup... If something goes wrong with the Flex (which I believe hard to happen, but not impossible), I have the Dewalt ready to go.

Last month my Dewalt failed (Chinese made cable would not long last, had to repair the wire), and I had nothing to do the job...

Flex 3401 seems to be a great machine. But I don't know if it's good on very neglected paint (time for removing it). Now there's DA new models... XCE 9-8 I think...
 
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