custmsprty
New member
- Apr 11, 2012
- 7,496
- 0
Go with the HD line, it's the most noob friendly product line you will ever find and it's the most economical.
Which product will better suit my needs?
- Thread starter JoeGT
- Start date
BadgerRivFan
Member
- Aug 28, 2015
- 886
- 5
GG6
HD Adapt (more flexibility for swirl removal and finish polishing on a black vehicle)
HD Poxy
Orange, white, and red/black pads
HD Adapt (more flexibility for swirl removal and finish polishing on a black vehicle)
HD Poxy
Orange, white, and red/black pads
Cabrio
Member
- Sep 8, 2014
- 312
- 0
Hey JoeGT - not sure if you pulled the trigger on the polisher or if you are still researching. But here's a recent post I thought you might be interested in reading.
rops:http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...rbital-polisher/97344-blown-away-results.html
Detail-Impressions
New member
- Aug 22, 2011
- 327
- 0
I would try this as a starting point: CarPro Essence Polish
CarPro Essence Xtreme Gloss Enhancer 250 ml
Match with this pad:CarPro Flash Spot Repair Pad
CarPro Flash Spot Repair Pad - 6 1/4 inch
Also have a few of these:Gloss Pads
CarPro 5.5 inch Gloss Pad
I have no idea your backing plate size, so adjust as needed. You may like to try a 5" backing plate: lake country 5 inch backing plate, 5 inch backin plate, 5 inch hook and loop backing plate
Top with: CarPro Reload Spray
Reload Spray Sealant, spray paint sealant, spray wax, CQuartz Reload
CarPro Essence Xtreme Gloss Enhancer 250 ml
Match with this pad:CarPro Flash Spot Repair Pad
CarPro Flash Spot Repair Pad - 6 1/4 inch
Also have a few of these:Gloss Pads
CarPro 5.5 inch Gloss Pad
I have no idea your backing plate size, so adjust as needed. You may like to try a 5" backing plate: lake country 5 inch backing plate, 5 inch backin plate, 5 inch hook and loop backing plate
Top with: CarPro Reload Spray
Reload Spray Sealant, spray paint sealant, spray wax, CQuartz Reload
TTQ B4U
Well-known member
- Jan 20, 2016
- 5,504
- 70
You'll get as many opinions as replies so here's mine. I've owned a dozen or so black cars including the two I have now and can say I know your pain.
As noted above you'll get great results from any number of products out there. I am a creature of habit but do experiment with new things a lot too if not for anything other than just having first hand experience. Like I've said most will do exactly what you want.
I can say on my Pure Brilliant Black Audi, the best combination for it has been pretty simple.
Meguiar's Ulitmate Polish will get you a beautiful smooth swirl free finish. Can't say without seeing pics of your paint condition for sure, but likely an orange pad to start.
I personally like to finish polishing with Menzerma SF4500 and a white pad. It really helps the paint depth on a pure black car and insures a spectacular finish.
Here are a couple quick pics prior to my LSP. There I love BLACKFIRE BlackICE Hybrid Montan Sealant Wax. It's pricey but I love it. I have also been using and love Collinate 845 too as it's winter here and I'm very confident in it's protection. I don't think either will cause you to wish for another option.
http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah133/PDQS4/Hood 3_zpshmbvzw07.jpg
http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah133/PDQS4/Hood 1_zpsw7sxtuq4.jpg
http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah133/PDQS4/hood 2_zps56iv0qft.jpg
My ultimate and most favorite gloss enhancer after drying that I use all the time is BLACKFire Wet Diamond Spray. I buy the gallon size and use it religiously. ZERO Streaks when used with a clean cloth.
Key to maintaining a perfect black car is to touch it as little as possible when using a gloss spray, hit it very very lightly with pressure and never with a dry cloth. I dn't care how soft it is. Micro abrasions are a PIA.
As noted above you'll get great results from any number of products out there. I am a creature of habit but do experiment with new things a lot too if not for anything other than just having first hand experience. Like I've said most will do exactly what you want.
I can say on my Pure Brilliant Black Audi, the best combination for it has been pretty simple.
Meguiar's Ulitmate Polish will get you a beautiful smooth swirl free finish. Can't say without seeing pics of your paint condition for sure, but likely an orange pad to start.
I personally like to finish polishing with Menzerma SF4500 and a white pad. It really helps the paint depth on a pure black car and insures a spectacular finish.
Here are a couple quick pics prior to my LSP. There I love BLACKFIRE BlackICE Hybrid Montan Sealant Wax. It's pricey but I love it. I have also been using and love Collinate 845 too as it's winter here and I'm very confident in it's protection. I don't think either will cause you to wish for another option.
http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah133/PDQS4/Hood 3_zpshmbvzw07.jpg
http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah133/PDQS4/Hood 1_zpsw7sxtuq4.jpg
http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah133/PDQS4/hood 2_zps56iv0qft.jpg
My ultimate and most favorite gloss enhancer after drying that I use all the time is BLACKFire Wet Diamond Spray. I buy the gallon size and use it religiously. ZERO Streaks when used with a clean cloth.
Key to maintaining a perfect black car is to touch it as little as possible when using a gloss spray, hit it very very lightly with pressure and never with a dry cloth. I dn't care how soft it is. Micro abrasions are a PIA.
cardaddy
New member
- Nov 20, 2012
- 3,937
- 0
First... :welcome: to AGO! 
Ahhhh... thought going in that you *already had* the PC. If not... then YES get the G6!:dblthumb2:
Advance Auto Parts has a 30% off coupon code that'll work on it, getting it down around a hundred bucks. Autogeek will honor that code!
Now that that's out of the way.
Two words.....
TEST
SPOT
I've not worked on black Ford paint, but I have laid hands on a 2013 blue GT500 and it was SOOOOOFFFFFTTTT.
(Or at least it surely didn't want to hide swirls.)
You mentioned filling swirls.... that's just not practical. It'll also not end up with you being satisfied in the long run.
Removing CC isn't that big of a deal. Working with a modern DA type machine really isn't going to have you end up with bare metal at the end. The amount of CC that you'd remove in a paint correction shouldn't be a big issue either. While YES... you're 'leveling' the paint a bit, you are not sanding it.
The KEY issue is that you stay away from sharp body lines, and edges of long sharp lines (like fenders and hoods). Not that you can't buff those areas, just that you don't go all hammer down on them.
As far as working with your newfound DA. You'll need a few things.
Mainly... PADS, and don't think getting only 6 pads, 1 of each color, (as many do when getting a "kit") is the way to go. I'd say get 6 orange, (or at least 4). Then 4 white, and 2 blue. That'd be a MINIMUM number of pads so you'll know that you have enough pads to work with whatever your paint may be calling for.
Next you'll need towels, LOTS of towels, and GOOD towels. Thankfully Autogeek has *finally* seen the light and offered a good quality 365GSM towel for a price that matches many of our favorite microfiber towel vendor prices.
I'd get a couple dozen of those. Autogeek also has a nice drying towel, the Cobra Guzzler (foam core) that'll seriously suck up some water. REMEMBER... you don't want to 'wipe' a towel when drying, rather... you place it flat, then gently pad (or rub) the back of it with your open hand.
I'd also look at a 470GSM Korean edgeless (actually the ones I'm thinking about are just over 500GSM, but they're listed at 470) towels, and get a dozen of those. While you're at it... the 530GSM all purpose towels can't be beat. Might also do a search for a Korean drying towel, (they're one of the only ones that can compete with the Guzzler's).
Going back to the TEST SPOT.
It's hard to say, without both seeing, and feeling the paint exactly what you'd need to correct it. Then of course we talk about what level of correction you'll be willing to accept, THEN what Autogeek levels of OCD-ness you're willing to put up with to maintain it once you've got it corrected (to your preferred level). :lauging:
Were it me....
I'd spend the first hour on the wheels and wheel wells.
Next I'd do the first wash.
Follow with a rinse.
Next I'd IRON-X it.
Follow that with a rinse.
Next I'd do a quick second wash... rinsing as I go. THEN... use a splash of clean lightly soapy water (read LIGHTLY soapy) and move to the next step.
Next I'd break out the Nanoskin pad and sponges and go over the entire thing.
Follow that with another rinse. (Actually you rinse each Nanoskinned section as you go.)
NOW.... it's time to dry it. Break out the blower, break out the towels, get it all dry.
Time for a thorough inspection prior to paint correction.
TAPE OFF EVERYTHING that you don't want compound getting on!!!
Then tape off the hood (or roof) into say 6 squares. Do not do but 4 or 5 section passes, PERIOD. That's not to say that a DAT product will not need more, but that a SMAT doesn't need more. You can always do more with a DAT based product, but with only 4~5 passes you'll get a GOOD LOOK at what pad and what compound is getting you closer to where you want to be without going too far. REMEMBER... you can always do more passes, but the point is to get correction with the least amount of work, least aggressive method, obtaining the best results.
Square 1: Orange pad, machine speed 5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - HD Speed
Square 2: White pad, machine speed 5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - HD Speed
Square 3: Orange pad, machine speed 5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - HD Adapt
Square 4: White pad, machine speed 5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - HD Adapt
Square 5: Orange pad, machine speed 5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - FG400
Square 2: White pad, machine speed 5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - FG400
If needed... meaning in the first 4 sections you didn't get the results close enough to what you were looking for.
Square 5: Microfiber cutting pad, machine speed 4.5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - Meguiar's D300
Square 6: Orange pad, machine speed 5~5.5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - Meguiar's D300
Bottom line is this.......
You may get exactly what you're looking for with one compound and an orange pad, or the same compound and a white pad.
May be that another compound, 2 more section passes, and an orange pad works.
Could be that your machine speed adjusted by only half a tick, or just a but more (or less) arm pressure.
You simply will not know until you do your TEST SPOT(s).
Make SURE you write down what you're using, what speed, what pad, what pressure, all of it, on WHICH area. Don't think you'll remember it later, because trust me... you won't! Once you have dialed down the process on your car, on that paint, at THAT temp, then you'll know what works. Remember though... if you're working in the 60's and suddenly it's in the 90's, that things will be different, A LOT DIFFERENT. They'll go a lot faster when it's 30° warmer.
I've been late to the HD products, but from what little I've used them, I like them. They absolutely DO NOT dust. But they WILL ball up (or pilling as it's called) and throw little white boogers all over the place if you use even a TOUCH too much product.
My favorite SMAT based compound these last few years has been Meguiar's D300, of course on the Meguiar's microfiber correction discs, as well as several foam discs. (Including Lake Country and Rupes). :dblthumb2:
Favorite DAT (heavy cut that is) compound is hands down Menzerna FG400.
Both of the above will dust if you work them long enough. Although that's really not an issue for me. They don't however "pill" like HD products. (Although HD stuff will work a looooooong time.)
Speaking of working a long time. Meguiar's Ultimate Compound (it was born from the perennial favorite M105) doesn't dry out like 105 does, (nor does it cut quite as much)
but it does do an excellent job! You can follow that with M205 or Ultimate Polish (in order of cut, from most to less). Of course UP was also born from M205 so you know you're getting that same technology along the way.
Ahhhh... thought going in that you *already had* the PC. If not... then YES get the G6!:dblthumb2:
Advance Auto Parts has a 30% off coupon code that'll work on it, getting it down around a hundred bucks. Autogeek will honor that code!
Now that that's out of the way.
Two words.....
TEST
SPOT
I've not worked on black Ford paint, but I have laid hands on a 2013 blue GT500 and it was SOOOOOFFFFFTTTT.
(Or at least it surely didn't want to hide swirls.)You mentioned filling swirls.... that's just not practical. It'll also not end up with you being satisfied in the long run.
Removing CC isn't that big of a deal. Working with a modern DA type machine really isn't going to have you end up with bare metal at the end. The amount of CC that you'd remove in a paint correction shouldn't be a big issue either. While YES... you're 'leveling' the paint a bit, you are not sanding it.
The KEY issue is that you stay away from sharp body lines, and edges of long sharp lines (like fenders and hoods). Not that you can't buff those areas, just that you don't go all hammer down on them.
As far as working with your newfound DA. You'll need a few things.
Mainly... PADS, and don't think getting only 6 pads, 1 of each color, (as many do when getting a "kit") is the way to go. I'd say get 6 orange, (or at least 4). Then 4 white, and 2 blue. That'd be a MINIMUM number of pads so you'll know that you have enough pads to work with whatever your paint may be calling for.
Next you'll need towels, LOTS of towels, and GOOD towels. Thankfully Autogeek has *finally* seen the light and offered a good quality 365GSM towel for a price that matches many of our favorite microfiber towel vendor prices.
I'd get a couple dozen of those. Autogeek also has a nice drying towel, the Cobra Guzzler (foam core) that'll seriously suck up some water. REMEMBER... you don't want to 'wipe' a towel when drying, rather... you place it flat, then gently pad (or rub) the back of it with your open hand.I'd also look at a 470GSM Korean edgeless (actually the ones I'm thinking about are just over 500GSM, but they're listed at 470) towels, and get a dozen of those. While you're at it... the 530GSM all purpose towels can't be beat. Might also do a search for a Korean drying towel, (they're one of the only ones that can compete with the Guzzler's).
Going back to the TEST SPOT.
It's hard to say, without both seeing, and feeling the paint exactly what you'd need to correct it. Then of course we talk about what level of correction you'll be willing to accept, THEN what Autogeek levels of OCD-ness you're willing to put up with to maintain it once you've got it corrected (to your preferred level).
:lauging: Were it me....
I'd spend the first hour on the wheels and wheel wells.
Next I'd do the first wash.
Follow with a rinse.
Next I'd IRON-X it.
Follow that with a rinse.
Next I'd do a quick second wash... rinsing as I go. THEN... use a splash of clean lightly soapy water (read LIGHTLY soapy) and move to the next step.
Next I'd break out the Nanoskin pad and sponges and go over the entire thing.
Follow that with another rinse. (Actually you rinse each Nanoskinned section as you go.)
NOW.... it's time to dry it. Break out the blower, break out the towels, get it all dry.
Time for a thorough inspection prior to paint correction.
TAPE OFF EVERYTHING that you don't want compound getting on!!!
Then tape off the hood (or roof) into say 6 squares. Do not do but 4 or 5 section passes, PERIOD. That's not to say that a DAT product will not need more, but that a SMAT doesn't need more. You can always do more with a DAT based product, but with only 4~5 passes you'll get a GOOD LOOK at what pad and what compound is getting you closer to where you want to be without going too far. REMEMBER... you can always do more passes, but the point is to get correction with the least amount of work, least aggressive method, obtaining the best results.
Square 1: Orange pad, machine speed 5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - HD Speed
Square 2: White pad, machine speed 5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - HD Speed
Square 3: Orange pad, machine speed 5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - HD Adapt
Square 4: White pad, machine speed 5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - HD Adapt
Square 5: Orange pad, machine speed 5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - FG400
Square 2: White pad, machine speed 5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - FG400
If needed... meaning in the first 4 sections you didn't get the results close enough to what you were looking for.
Square 5: Microfiber cutting pad, machine speed 4.5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - Meguiar's D300
Square 6: Orange pad, machine speed 5~5.5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure
Compound - Meguiar's D300
Bottom line is this.......
You may get exactly what you're looking for with one compound and an orange pad, or the same compound and a white pad.
May be that another compound, 2 more section passes, and an orange pad works.
Could be that your machine speed adjusted by only half a tick, or just a but more (or less) arm pressure.
You simply will not know until you do your TEST SPOT(s).
Make SURE you write down what you're using, what speed, what pad, what pressure, all of it, on WHICH area. Don't think you'll remember it later, because trust me... you won't!
Once you have dialed down the process on your car, on that paint, at THAT temp, then you'll know what works. Remember though... if you're working in the 60's and suddenly it's in the 90's, that things will be different, A LOT DIFFERENT. They'll go a lot faster when it's 30° warmer. I've been late to the HD products, but from what little I've used them, I like them. They absolutely DO NOT dust. But they WILL ball up (or pilling as it's called) and throw little white boogers all over the place if you use even a TOUCH too much product.
My favorite SMAT based compound these last few years has been Meguiar's D300, of course on the Meguiar's microfiber correction discs, as well as several foam discs. (Including Lake Country and Rupes). :dblthumb2:
Favorite DAT (heavy cut that is) compound is hands down Menzerna FG400.
Both of the above will dust if you work them long enough. Although that's really not an issue for me. They don't however "pill" like HD products. (Although HD stuff will work a looooooong time.)
Speaking of working a long time. Meguiar's Ultimate Compound (it was born from the perennial favorite M105) doesn't dry out like 105 does, (nor does it cut quite as much)
but it does do an excellent job! You can follow that with M205 or Ultimate Polish (in order of cut, from most to less). Of course UP was also born from M205 so you know you're getting that same technology along the way.
First... :welcome: to AGO!
Advance Auto Parts has a 30% off coupon code that'll work on it, getting it down around a hundred bucks. Autogeek will honor that code!
Thank you so much! I have been pulling my hair out trying to figure out if I was going to get the PC or GG and this savings makes it totally worth it now to get the GG. Thank you!
:buffing: :xyxthumbs: