tpr1634
New member
- Apr 23, 2012
- 1,160
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:iagree: great combo....:buffing:
Which wax to make flake pop and add depth!!
- Thread starter EVOlved
- Start date
:iagree: great combo....:buffing:
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
- 21,057
- 1
Have you not ever experienced the:
SON1C Wax's: CARNAUBAVORE WAX-Sensation?
SON1C Wax Carnaubavore
Bob
richzak
New member
- Jan 13, 2014
- 35
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I have a Shadow Grey Metallic Jaguar and a Platinum Silver Porsche.
Both are metallic. I use Meguiars NXT Generation 2.0 Paste Wax for $22.00 for an 11 oz. can.
I suggest that you give this new technology Polymer wax a try. The results are very impressive and it's a low cost expense for a premium product.
Both are metallic. I use Meguiars NXT Generation 2.0 Paste Wax for $22.00 for an 11 oz. can.
I suggest that you give this new technology Polymer wax a try. The results are very impressive and it's a low cost expense for a premium product.
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
- 21,057
- 1
New technology?
The first batch of NXT GENERATION 2.0 was in December, 2007.
Though when considering the long history of Meguiar's...
That really is just a drop in the bucket!
Bob
-What is Gloss?
Gloss is where light is allowed to pass through a substance/material, so the light illuminates and reflects the substrate.
(Such is the relationship between a "perfected", polished CC, and the BC. The reflected color dazzles the eyes!!)
What is Shine?
-Shine is where the light is reflected before it reaches the substrate. (The reflected light dazzles the eyes!!)
Many more variables can be further discussed/debated at later time.
For now:
I won't go as far to say that any given LSP does...or doesn't: add (or subtract) gloss, or shine.
That explanasion about the reflection... I love it!
Gloss is where light is allowed to pass through a substance/material, so the light illuminates and reflects the substrate.
(Such is the relationship between a "perfected", polished CC, and the BC. The reflected color dazzles the eyes!!)
What is Shine?
-Shine is where the light is reflected before it reaches the substrate. (The reflected light dazzles the eyes!!)
Many more variables can be further discussed/debated at later time.
For now:
I won't go as far to say that any given LSP does...or doesn't: add (or subtract) gloss, or shine.
That explanasion about the reflection... I love it!
michelliot
New member
- Jun 5, 2013
- 98
- 0
+1 for Pinnacle's Signature II. Makes my silver flake reflect so much that in the sun the car appears almost white from a distance. The flecks give the finish an impression of depth when viewing up close.
The Maroon metallic paint on my other car reflects light that, from a distance, it almost appears black due to the contrast. Up close the same feeling of a deeper finish is transmitted by the flake and rich color background.
Very pleased with the results.....
elliot
But we all know that the "shine" emanates from the paint and the wax is only protection. The wax might be filling in micro scratches to reduce scattered light reflections/refractions. Seems I've heard that before.
The Maroon metallic paint on my other car reflects light that, from a distance, it almost appears black due to the contrast. Up close the same feeling of a deeper finish is transmitted by the flake and rich color background.
Very pleased with the results.....
elliot
But we all know that the "shine" emanates from the paint and the wax is only protection. The wax might be filling in micro scratches to reduce scattered light reflections/refractions. Seems I've heard that before.
PA DETAILER
Well-known member
- Mar 5, 2011
- 6,003
- 236
DP MAX WAX left unreal reflections and depth. :xyxthumbs:
CDot
New member
- Aug 8, 2013
- 1,010
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One of the most underrated paste waxes; I tried some for the first time last week and it was freakin' great. I also use Colli #845--I might try them layered.
dcjredline
New member
- Mar 26, 2012
- 3,340
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Soeey, I never used the paste version. I have the liquid version and never had a complaint or concern on longevity. It is a carnuba so it wont last months on end and you have to set expectations as such. I thought we were talking more about shine than durability thats why I suggested the souvern :xyxthumbs:
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 6
Here's my take....
Making the Metallic Flake Pop! - Popping versus Muting
One of the goals everyone has that owns a car with a metallic finish is to figure out how to make the metalflake pop.
The way you maximize the clarity of a clear coat finish is you remove as many of the topical and sub-surface defects as possible without compromising or abrading through the clear layer finish.
This is done through a combination of the below,
The way you maximize the smoothness of the clear coat finish is by removing any above surface bonded contaminants as possible and if you have enough paint on the car, then to remove as much orange peel or surface texture like mottling as possible without compromising or abrading through the clear layer finish.
Keep in mind, anytime you wetsand paint, which removes paint, you're then going to have to compound and polish the paint and both of these procedure will also remove paint, so it's vitally important that you are working on a custom paint job or you have the experience, skill and confidence to carefully wetsand a factory finish.
Maximizing the smoothness is done through a combination of the below,
Wetsanding paint should be reserved for custom paint jobs where the top coat of clear paint is purposefully sprayed on thicker by the painter because he knows the paint will be wetsanded. Wetsanding can be used by professionals and serious enthusiasts for factory paint jobs if and when the desire is strong enough to overcome the hardness and thinness factors that make sanding factory paint risky.
Besides wetsanding though, the majority of us can safely do the following relatively safely,
Below are the results from the Test Spot I performed to an all original 1968 Firebird Convertible except that it has been repainted with a basecoat/clearcoat finish.
When the car arrived I inspected the paint and documented with video and hi res pictures that the clear layer was in fact filled with swirls and scratches and this was clouding the clear layer hiding the beauty and definition of the metallic flakes in the basecoat.
My Test Spot not only was used to prove my paint polishing system but to also show the owner what the paint could truly look like and in the process make the metallic flake pop.
If you have a metallic or metal flake paint job on your car, truck or suv, you can too can get the metallic finish to pop by evaluating the finish and then doing the practical and safe procedures appropriate to your car's finish and your skill level and maximize the clarity and smoothness of the clear coat.
For this project we used,
Optimum Hyper-Compound
Optimum Hyper-Polish
Optimum Car Wax
Lake Country 5" Hybrid Pads
Lake Country 5.5" Hydro-Tech Pads
Flex 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher
Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher
Porter Cable 7424XP
Any quality compounds, polishes, pads and tools will create the same results.
Test Spot Results
I taped off a section in front of the 400 emblem on the air scoop and then buffed on each side of it.
Restoring clarity makes the metallic flake pop
The left side is the before side, the right side is the after side. Millions of fine swirls and scratches act to make the top clear layer of paint hazy and opaque, this hides the metallic flake in the basecoat.
In the below shots you can see by where the overhead florescent lights are reflecting on the paint where the paint is hazy and where the paint is clear.
Here's the high resolution pictures of the hazy, swirled-out paint before we duplicated the process used for the Test Spot.
Here's the high resolution pictures of the paint after we maximized clarity and smoothness. Now the metalflake in the basecoat pops!
So if you want to really make the flake in your car's finish pop, focus on maximizing clarity and smoothness to the top, clear coat layer of paint.
This can be done by hand but it's best done by machine.
You can find the full write-up, process and pictures in the below thread,
Video and Pictures: 1968 Firebird Detailing Class at AutogeekOnline.net
Making the Metallic Flake Pop! - Popping versus Muting
One of the goals everyone has that owns a car with a metallic finish is to figure out how to make the metalflake pop.
Pop Definition
By the word "pop", people mean make the pretty, reflective shiny flakes in the basecoat easy to see through the clear coat.
Because the majority of all cars with a metallic paint job have a clear coat over them, there's no way to physically affect the actual metallic flakes under the clear layer of paint. So to get the metallic flake to POP you want to do two thing, the first is the most important.By the word "pop", people mean make the pretty, reflective shiny flakes in the basecoat easy to see through the clear coat.
- Maximize the clarity of the clear coat
- Maximize the smoothness of the clear coat
The way you maximize the clarity of a clear coat finish is you remove as many of the topical and sub-surface defects as possible without compromising or abrading through the clear layer finish.
This is done through a combination of the below,
- Wetsanding to remove defects and orange peel
- Compounding to remove deeper below surface defects like swirls, scratches and water spots
- Polishing to either refine the results from the compounding step or remove shallow below surface defects like swirls, scratches and water spots where a true compound isn't needed.
The way you maximize the smoothness of the clear coat finish is by removing any above surface bonded contaminants as possible and if you have enough paint on the car, then to remove as much orange peel or surface texture like mottling as possible without compromising or abrading through the clear layer finish.
Keep in mind, anytime you wetsand paint, which removes paint, you're then going to have to compound and polish the paint and both of these procedure will also remove paint, so it's vitally important that you are working on a custom paint job or you have the experience, skill and confidence to carefully wetsand a factory finish.
Maximizing the smoothness is done through a combination of the below,
- Claying the paint or using a product like the Speedy Surface Prep Towel to remove above surface bonded contaminants
- Wetsanding or dampsanding to remove orange peel, surface texture, mottling
- Compounding to remove and/or level surface imperfections
- Polishing to either refine the results from the compounding step or remove shallow below surface defects like swirls, scratches and water spots where a true compound isn't needed.
Wetsanding paint should be reserved for custom paint jobs where the top coat of clear paint is purposefully sprayed on thicker by the painter because he knows the paint will be wetsanded. Wetsanding can be used by professionals and serious enthusiasts for factory paint jobs if and when the desire is strong enough to overcome the hardness and thinness factors that make sanding factory paint risky.
Besides wetsanding though, the majority of us can safely do the following relatively safely,
- Claying or using a product like the Speedy Surface Prep Towel to remove above surface bonded contaminants.
- Compounding.
- Polishing.
Below are the results from the Test Spot I performed to an all original 1968 Firebird Convertible except that it has been repainted with a basecoat/clearcoat finish.
When the car arrived I inspected the paint and documented with video and hi res pictures that the clear layer was in fact filled with swirls and scratches and this was clouding the clear layer hiding the beauty and definition of the metallic flakes in the basecoat.
My Test Spot not only was used to prove my paint polishing system but to also show the owner what the paint could truly look like and in the process make the metallic flake pop.
If you have a metallic or metal flake paint job on your car, truck or suv, you can too can get the metallic finish to pop by evaluating the finish and then doing the practical and safe procedures appropriate to your car's finish and your skill level and maximize the clarity and smoothness of the clear coat.
For this project we used,
Optimum Hyper-Compound
Optimum Hyper-Polish
Optimum Car Wax
Lake Country 5" Hybrid Pads
Lake Country 5.5" Hydro-Tech Pads
Flex 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher
Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher
Porter Cable 7424XP
Any quality compounds, polishes, pads and tools will create the same results.
Test Spot Results
I taped off a section in front of the 400 emblem on the air scoop and then buffed on each side of it.
Restoring clarity makes the metallic flake pop
The left side is the before side, the right side is the after side. Millions of fine swirls and scratches act to make the top clear layer of paint hazy and opaque, this hides the metallic flake in the basecoat.
In the below shots you can see by where the overhead florescent lights are reflecting on the paint where the paint is hazy and where the paint is clear.
Here's the high resolution pictures of the hazy, swirled-out paint before we duplicated the process used for the Test Spot.
Here's the high resolution pictures of the paint after we maximized clarity and smoothness. Now the metalflake in the basecoat pops!
So if you want to really make the flake in your car's finish pop, focus on maximizing clarity and smoothness to the top, clear coat layer of paint.
This can be done by hand but it's best done by machine.
You can find the full write-up, process and pictures in the below thread,
Video and Pictures: 1968 Firebird Detailing Class at AutogeekOnline.net
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 6
I could do this all day....
Making the Metallic Flake Pop!
Here's another example of making the flake in a metalflake finish pop by maximizing clarity and smoothness...
Before
In these before shots, you can barely see that this is in fact a multi-color metalflake finish.
After
We put this paint through a claying, machine compounding and polishing process using the Optimum Hyper-Compound and Hyper-Polish like we used on the 1968 Firebird but instead of using Optimum Car Wax for the LSP we used Opti-Coat II
Now the flake POPS!
Again, all we did was maximize the clarity and gloss of the clear coat and we were able to make the metallic flake pop.
You can find the entire write-up, process and pictures for this 1977 Can Am Corvette here,
1977 Can Am Corvette - Modeled by Amy and Janna - Pictures and Video!
Making the Metallic Flake Pop!
Here's another example of making the flake in a metalflake finish pop by maximizing clarity and smoothness...
Before
In these before shots, you can barely see that this is in fact a multi-color metalflake finish.
After
We put this paint through a claying, machine compounding and polishing process using the Optimum Hyper-Compound and Hyper-Polish like we used on the 1968 Firebird but instead of using Optimum Car Wax for the LSP we used Opti-Coat II
Now the flake POPS!
Again, all we did was maximize the clarity and gloss of the clear coat and we were able to make the metallic flake pop.
You can find the entire write-up, process and pictures for this 1977 Can Am Corvette here,
1977 Can Am Corvette - Modeled by Amy and Janna - Pictures and Video!
PrismDetailing
New member
- Feb 25, 2014
- 190
- 0
The metallic fleck on the Corvette looks incredible
EVOlved
New member
- Oct 2, 2013
- 1,128
- 0
- Thread starter
- #35
Sorry for bumping an old thread.
That is some crazy flake on that vette!!
And I am revisiting this again because I got lazy and went the Hydr02 route which does work fantastically. So I think I have my regimen set now and just need my nice wax to set the car off now for the summer months as of now I will be using Sonax PNS in the winter months and maybe a Hydr02 blast towards the end when it is wearing down.
So back to the wax for summer months I still have my work cut out for me as my list is big if anyone wants offer opinions to cut any out that may help because I can't buy them all as I would have them for 200 years!! So here's the ones I'm looking at now:
SON1C Phoenix (because of the great look I got with 93, although it didn't bead spectacularly)
Pinnacle SSii (based on the rec's in this thread)
Wet-Ice over Fire (just because I have been intrigued with this one from my beginning with this hobby)
Souveran (because everyone says the looks are always fantastic)
AF Illusion (just because?)
M26 (because Bob's recommendations are always interesting and seem to get the job done)
That is some crazy flake on that vette!!
And I am revisiting this again because I got lazy and went the Hydr02 route which does work fantastically. So I think I have my regimen set now and just need my nice wax to set the car off now for the summer months as of now I will be using Sonax PNS in the winter months and maybe a Hydr02 blast towards the end when it is wearing down.
So back to the wax for summer months I still have my work cut out for me as my list is big if anyone wants offer opinions to cut any out that may help because I can't buy them all as I would have them for 200 years!! So here's the ones I'm looking at now:
SON1C Phoenix (because of the great look I got with 93, although it didn't bead spectacularly)
Pinnacle SSii (based on the rec's in this thread)
Wet-Ice over Fire (just because I have been intrigued with this one from my beginning with this hobby)
Souveran (because everyone says the looks are always fantastic)
AF Illusion (just because?)
M26 (because Bob's recommendations are always interesting and seem to get the job done)
JHL88
New member
- Mar 17, 2013
- 1,137
- 0
lol