White single stage problems. question?

C

Craddock

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Every week I seem to get something that messes with me. I restoring badly oxidized gelcoat for years and leaving zero swirls. Today I am trying to finish up a 94 white Mustang. So far I have been able to get majority of the major swirls ( extremely large radius swirls if they are even called swirls. Be a 6 ft + diameter swirl) with m100. I just can not seem to finish it down past that. I think I need some sort of finishing pad for the rotary but do not have it. Only wool and one orange pad. Have not tried that but today I am working in sun. I have m100, uc, boss correcting creme sample I got with last $150 order, and fine finishing compunds. M205, 3800, ect

I read Mikes article on white ss. I get what I am up against. Just wish I could finish it down better. Major correcting is done. This stuff is hard!

I would like to try and fill some swirls in with glaze or wax. Thinking of layering. Lots of debate of topping over #7 but it seems most is arguing on bc/cc systems. Love to know if I could top it after a good wipe down on ss. Products I have on hand are #7, nxt 2.0, liquid ultimate wax, collinite 845, and 3m ultra performance paste wax (marine carnuba but read it was the same as an auto marketed show car wax) Could get m21 local if needed. If any combo would help reduce even 20% remain light defects that would be awesome. This paint is exausting. Garage kept. Never driven in rain, stored winters.

Any help would be apreciated. Thanks
 
Maybe a flex or da would help your situation.The one orange foam pad with 205 should clean it up.wool is disastrous on ss or basecoat clearcoat and being out in the sun,those products are not working 100 percent.No matter if you top that car 90 times with waxes and glazes you can't hide halograms for long.I would invest in a forced rotation polisher for cars and boats it will make your job easier and halogram free.
 
If you have already corrected out at the wool and compound level and are left with pigs tails? Then IME you have a few options;
Scenario 1./
Switch to a Foam cutting pad still on the rotary, with the same compound and run a few passees and inspect, if the pig tails and marring are going and the finish is just a slightly hazey (or even polished but not crisp) but even finish then you are good..
Then go onto a DA with foam polishing pad and a moderate polish that deminishes (some finishing polishes struggle on hard single stage white.. break down quickly without correcting and do very little).., keep the work area small and clean / change pads regulary.. (to maintain its polishing rate)...

From your description you don't have nearly enough pads to work through which may introduce defects into your work.. respectfully suggest you supplement your stock....

Scenario 2./
The wool isn't getting out the defects and is leaving too much marring..
I had similar experence and switched out to a foamed wool (LC Purple) pads on the rotary and this improved matters drastically.. for heavier cut i used a SMAT non deminishing compound.. (eg M101) reason being it doesn't break down and allows sustained defect removal.. deminishing compounds cut well initially and start to finish down.. Its your call if you have heavy enough defects to remove as to which you select.. (test patch)
Note with the puple wool at low speed (<1000rpm) and a good quality deiminishing compound you can achieve a relatively high gloos with out marring on harder paints.... you could even go to LSP if you wern't too worried... (gives you an idea of what can be done).
For me after this i then jumped onto the DAT compound with foam heavy polish pad on rotary, then a finsihing polish on foam polishing pad with DA.
I then jewelled with rotary, finishing pads and carpro reflect..

I hope that gives you some sort of picture of the levels that can be worked through.. note cleanliness and regular pads and panel cleaning (with IPA are critical on white paint to allow you to actually see what you are really getting as many polishes will fill to a degree.. and then when you fonally wipe you see the truth.. ipa wipe a little more often as you go will stop you having to back track..)

Its slow but you'll get there..
 
Wrote a long response and lost it somehow. I do not have a purple foamed wool pad but will get one on next order. I see I just missed a shipping special. I have assorted lc pads for da but have found it of little use. I did accidentally come across a combo that worked. I in error dumped some 205 on the hood and cleaned most of it but left some and added my m100 to it. It really helped working time in sun. Driveway was getting sealed to I had to work outside. Finished down very nice. It removed 95% and surprisingly left no compounding swirls.
I do have one very bad strange hologram that I need to correct. The wool nor the da touched it. All it one spot. Definitive shape with sun coming behind a body line. Thought I burned through at first. Will ad more later. Going into meeting
 
Kind of a worthless picture. Still can't figure out how to load properly. I was about to get pics in the sun and got called over to discuss a another job as the sun set. Looks very nice and reflective minus one very bad hologram than I couldn't even alter. Working in sun on white caused vision problems. I think I hit the paint with edge of wool ting to get a raised angle. Probably work on it tomorrow. Did a brand new 1000 miles explorer platinum today. Easy work for a change
 
Forgot to say thanks for the responses. I really do appreciate it. I am looking at either a flex or rupes to replace my pc. Have primarily been a rotary guy for correction and can many times finish out with it. I almost always finish out swirl free with it on gel with a fee exceptions. Also I have some questions for gskr I may take to pm if that's ok. It goes back to that tractor.
 
If / when you elect to work with the DA (forced or free) just keep in mind the longer knap woll pads that work so well on the rotary aren't any good in the DA... you may need to invest in anumbe rof pads at the same time.... $$$
And the thinner firmer foam pads and MF cut better on the DA but not at rotary level..
Standard and deeper foam pads finish nicley but are sometimes too gentle on really hard paint.. (on DA)..
I still always finish out on DA and foam..

All the best
 
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