Who else lines up their center caps w/ valve stems

VWGLI

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I like to line up the bottom of the center caps to point toward the valve stems. Also install the lock furthest from the stem.
Is this normal or abnormal?
 
I have a hard enough time just keeping my car clean.....let alone worry about the valve stem location
 
I have a hard enough time just keeping my car clean.....let alone worry about the valve stem location

LOL, I'm pretty particular about a lot of things, but haven't ever thought about this one! Now I've got something else to think about!
 
The engineers at GM does that for me. The 2007-08 Silverado LTZ wheel caps have a recess for only one of the six lugs. You have to line the dimple to the lug 180 degrees from the valve stem or the cap will not seat properly.

It was a bit frustrating until I saw that recess. :doh:

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I have a hard enough time just keeping my car clean.....let alone worry about the valve stem location

LOL, I'm pretty particular about a lot of things, but haven't ever thought about this one! Now I've got something else to think about!
lol I thought it was normal. I have even lined up white letter tires with the stems on muscle cars.
 
The engineers at GM does that for me. The 2007-08 Silverado LTZ wheel caps have a recess for only one of the six lugs. You have to line the dimple to the lug 180 degrees from the valve stem or the cap will not seat properly.

It was a bit frustrating until I saw that recess. :doh:
Exactly. Those are easy once you figure them out. I got to a point where I could slap them on without thinking about it.
 
RedXray... sweet truck! I'm a Ford guy and I dig that. the factory wheels look great with the low pro tires and the drop. Very unique with a nice stance.
Anyways... back to the topic, many of the newer alloys are pin or slot aligned where they have to be aligned. There is nothing wrong to paying attention to the little details. I know guys that used to do shows and the tires letters where indexed to the valve stems which in turn where lined up with the center caps, then for disply the tires were rotated to where the valve stem where all in the same orientation. Crazy... maybe slightly. But when you show and every little last point counts I guess it matters.
 
What about lining up all of the screws on the car to be perfectly horizontal and vertical?
 
Yup, it's the OCD.
When I work on electrical outlets and switchboxes, all the screws are lined up either horizontal or vertical, was taught that way from an old timer, now I'm that old timer!
Detailed my 'grandsons' car and wheels, popped off the center caps and lined them up with the valve stem.
 
And all this time I thought I was bad!! :eek: :laughing:
 
Yup, it's the OCD.
When I work on electrical outlets and switchboxes, all the screws are lined up either horizontal or vertical, was taught that way from an old timer, now I'm that old timer!
Detailed my 'grandsons' car and wheels, popped off the center caps and lined them up with the valve stem.

Think about taking it to the next level. Make a screw tight, and see how far it goes past straight vertical and horizontal, and then unscrew it, being careful to be aware of the exact point at which the screw disengages the threads, and then rotate the screw as close as possible to the amount to which it is out of alignment when tight, and then engage the threads at that point and re screw it in, for the most closely aligned AND the tightest, most secure screw possible. :)
 
All Porsche caps are done that way and you lose points at shows if they are not
 
What about lining up all of the screws on the car to be perfectly horizontal and vertical?
I'm more concerned about correct torque.

Think about taking it to the next level. Make a screw tight, and see how far it goes past straight vertical and horizontal, and then unscrew it, being careful to be aware of the exact point at which the screw disengages the threads, and then rotate the screw as close as possible to the amount to which it is out of alignment when tight, and then engage the threads at that point and re screw it in, for the most closely aligned AND the tightest, most secure screw possible. :)

That is flat out insane.
 
I'm more concerned about correct torque.



That is flat out insane.

I did not know anyone measured the torque on trim screws. I wasn't talking about nuts and bolts.

I didn't say I ever actually did the method I described. It just occurred tome to be possible to do it, if one was inclined to take their OCD to the next level. :laughing:
 
I did not know anyone measured the torque on trim screws. I wasn't talking about nuts and bolts.
I don't precisely measure torque on interior trim screws but it is important not the screw em down too tight. I like to use a screwdriver for final tightening. Too loose and you get a rattle, too tight and you put more stress on the plastic parts eventually causing deformation and breaking.
 
I don't precisely measure torque on interior trim screws but it is important not the screw em down too tight. I like to use a screwdriver for final tightening. Too loose and you get a rattle, too tight and you put more stress on the plastic parts eventually causing deformation and breaking.

I agree. However, it is less than 45 degrees of a turn of the screw either way to make it straight. Is that the difference between a rattle or a broken taillight lens or trim piece? Loc Tite would work for machine screws.
 
I agree. However, it is less than 45 degrees of a turn of the screw either way to make it straight. Is that the difference between a rattle or a broken taillight lens or trim piece? Loc Tite would work for machine screws.
I prefer not to risk it when tail lights come into play. Once its seated snug and flush, thats it, not any tighter. I only fasten plastic parts by feel.
Didn't this start off about wheels?
 
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