who has painted over Opti-Coat 2.0?

[builthatch]

i have a brand new car (subaru sti) that is coated and unfortunately it has some defects from the factory that need to be corrected by a repaint. i am not thrilled, but honestly it's a brand new STI and the condition of this general area is unacceptable, even by terrible Subaru paint standards, haha. i have nothing but the highest praise for subaru of america and their treatment of my case, so that helps a bit.

the areas that will be repainted are the rear quarter, which of course means the entire roof rail all the way to the a pillar and the rear driver side door. i am very friendly with the painter which is another relief. he understands my extreme concern for the finish quality.

OPT has documented that the coating can be scuffed just like clear and painted over, so that is comforting, but i'm just curious if anyone has done it?

i trust nobody more in this industry than Dr. G, but i searched and i seem to be the only one so far that is in this position.

 

[Rsurfer]

OPT has documented that the coating can be scuffed just like clear and painted over, so that is comforting, but i'm just curious if anyone has done it?



Are you sure about that? I know you can scuff the coating after 30 days to add another coat.

 

[ohmy34]

To get the paint to stick to the clear it has to be sanded enough for it to grab ahold to the existing paint. If thats not done the paint will just peal off. so this will remove the oc. Jonathan

 

[bigbadbp7]

:iagree:

To get the paint to stick to the clear it has to be sanded enough for it to grab ahold to the existing paint. If thats not done the paint will just peal off. so this will remove the oc. Jonathan

 

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

There are a few different ways one can go about scuffing the finish to prepar it for paint. I have not had to scuff anything with Opti-Coat but that product shouldnt be a problem as far as painting is concerned.
The painter can scuff the car by hand with more or less a scotch brite pad made for paint. This will be the safest aproach in your situation.
Another way would be to use an air powered D/A with 400 to 600 grit paper to scuff the car.

 

[dougaross]

I had a OC2 front fender painted after collision damage 9 mos ago, no problems

 

[embolism]

if you are worried about it why not just compound the area that is about to get repainted?

 

[builthatch]

if you are worried about it why not just compound the area that is about to get repainted?

i see why you are asking that, but i have two reasons. first is that i could not spend that time (more time than i've already spent) and get the same end result. i'm not saying i'm worried about it, like i said - i trust Dr. G. 100%. he is one of the most honest people i've ever met, quite a gentleman and scholar. i just haven't seen anyone have it painted over up until asking in this thread, that's all.

the second reason is the clear has been repaired on this car at some point, hence my issue in the first place. apparently it happened in japan, not here at the US port...nobody knows for sure, but whatever it was, it's a mess. several areas show sanding marks under the base, with weird blotches in the metallic...and there is even a large portion of clear that has developed a halo where it was applied in a spot over the original clear. well, if i go ahead and burn through or remove the patched clear or end up causing more damage, i could jeopardize the status of the repair with subaru of america.

as of now, all i did was prep the car with the bare minimum to assure there were no practical flaws and coat it. i knew it had the damage from new and went over it to keep it from getting worse until they fixed it.

I had a OC2 front fender painted after collision damage 9 mos ago, no problems

thanks!

 

[dougaross]

I had a OC2 front fender painted after collision damage 9 mos ago, no problems

BTW I mentioned to the shop that it had been coated, I waited 2mos before I touched the paint -allow for out gassing and crappy winter weather. Recoated with OC2 and waited a couple of weeks before washing

 

[timaishu]

Reviving this thread. I am going through the same process as the OP.

My whole car is opticoated, except for my bumpers. Talked to a shop today and they said that they will blend into the adjacent panels, and then re-clear the whole thing. So for my front bumper, it sounds like they would re-clear both fenders and maybe the hood.

I am worried about the opti-coat effecting the repair process.

 

[6supersport7]

Any portions getting painted or blended will be sanded or scuffed with something around the 400-800 grit level more then likely. If opti-coat is still present after this, I am highly impressed.

 

[builthatch]

Any portions getting painted or blended will be sanded or scuffed with something around the 400-800 grit level more then likely. If opti-coat is still present after this, I am highly impressed.

this is correct. the necessary scuffing will prep/negate the opti-coat.

 

[SpoofMastaFly]

Don't see why you would not strip the car of all coatings prior to the repaint. The prep work alone that the painter does will remove any type of coating you have on the car. I would hope your trusting your car with someone who knows what they are doing. Proper prep allows for the paint to stick better and layer better then your finish result would look a lot better. I highly doubt the car's paints errors are from factory. They are most likely due to dealership/rail errors and having a trailer detail / chip repair guy fix the car on the lot.

 

[Chris Thomas]

Only the panels getting blended or cleared need to be scuffed. there is no reason to remove the coating from the whole vehicle...how would you even know when you had? It's clear! I have have my Altima painted after a collision and the painter scuffed where he was putting color, but tried to skip the rest of the panel that was only getting clear. Well, the OG told on him and he went back and scuffed it FTW. So the bottom line is: if the service center does the job the way they should, it'll be fine.