Why aren't these scratches coming out?

[add lightness]

I'm working with some severely oxidized single stage paint, a ten year old crappy Maaco job. Today I compounded it with Megs UC on a LC yellow pad on my Harbor Freight DA. It did a pretty good job removing the oxidation, it's actually shiny now instead of a matte finish! However, this fairly heavy compounding didn't do much for the sea of swirls that was hiding under the oxidation, even after many section passes. I'm not sure how to describe the swirls/scratches, they almost seem etched in? So, of course, pictures below.

Is there something I'm missing or doing wrong that these swirls won't come out? Or are they just too deep to even get out? I'd like to figure this out before I continue to polishing and LSP tomorrow. (This is my own vehicle, by the way).

For reference, this is the degree of oxidation I was taking off:

 

[swanicyouth]

It looks like the compound was aggressive enough to remove the oxidation, but not aggressive enough to remove the scratches. I'm not a pro at working on neglected finishes, so many will chime in. But, this looks like it might be a job for microfiber cutting or foamed wool pads with a professional compound. Maybe even a strait wool pad. I would at least use LC yellow CCS pads. What pad are you using? It looks like it may be a Harbor Freight pad.

I don't think UC has the "bite" or leveling power M105, M100, or M101 does. Poor Boys SSR line may be a good choice as well, as SSR 3 has a reputation for being aggressive.

As always, you should measure the paint thickness before aggressive work.

 

[add lightness]

It's a LC yellow flat pad. I didn't think any more cut would be necessary for this but I guess I might have to go shopping (again) and step it up.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Single stage paint can be very hard! Step up to a MF cutting pad and M101. If that doesn't work, a rotary and wool pad would be your best option.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

I'd be careful--places like Maaco are notorious for poor prep, etc. I'd hate to see you run out of paint before you get the results you're looking for.

 

[mwoolfso]

I'd be careful--places like Maaco are notorious for poor prep, etc. I'd hate to see you run out of paint before you get the results you're looking for.

:iagree:

To add to this.... all the more reason for a test spot to lock down the right process to generate a set of results that are both possible and desired.

 

[add lightness]

Thanks for the input guys. I did test spots, but this was the most aggressive combo I had. The transformation from dull to shiny was too appealing, so I had to go ahead and do the whole car (it's a Miata, not a big deal!). Plus, I bought it to flip, it's a 93 with 165k and the paint is chipping all over the place. Just shining it up to be a decent 10-footer is good enough for this purpose (although I wouldn't have complained about perfect results!).

 

[Dadillac]

I would use a wool pad. I get them at Lowes or Home Depot and slip them over the LC pads. They offer more cut than the foam pads.

Don