Why Do Folks Use Multiple DA Polisher?

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lovenhim

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Good morning everyone. Being a newbie to all of this, I wonder why folks purchase and use several DA polishers. When working on a car as a hobbies, a Craftsman ratchet will work just as well as a Mac, Matco, or Snap-On if they are the same length without one being longer or shorter than another. If you have two or three DA Polishers that are all free spinning models, all have a five inch backing plate, all have speed adjustments, etc, why are three different models needed? Lets say for example that you own a Porter Cable 7424XP that you have owned for a few years and it still is mechanically fine, why would you upgrade to a Flex or Rupes machine? These are newbie questions and I am trying to learn. Thank you for the help.
 
In some cases and for a number of reasons it's sort of like why does somebody go from a Chevy Impala to a Mercedes 300 series?

Probably word of mouth, reviews, dissatisfaction with certain qualities of less expensive machines, some start with a 7424, or GG6, then graduate to a Flex-Rupes-Boss-Etc and often relegate the earlier bought machine to smaller Plates-Pads for smaller-tighter areas.

Many reasons I guess. Some who do it professionally of course cannot rely on just one machine in their arsenal, when time is money. Have a machine go down in the middle of a customer's detail, a pro would then be in some deep doo doo without being able to successfully complete the job.

To others it's a hobby, and like a hobby such as musical instruments, amateur astronomy, shooting, fishing, hobbyists often have more than one telescope, more than one firearm, more than one guitar, snare drum, fishing rod-reel, etc etc, you get the picture.
 
Thank you for the reply. That is what I was thinking. The main reason is "just because". :) I was not sure if there was a technical reason for it such as a free spinning DA does better on certain panels or contours while a forced rotation unit is better for other areas of a vehicle.

MarkD51 said:
In some cases and for a number of reasons it's sort of like why does somebody go from a Chevy Impala to a Mercedes 300 series?

Probably word of mouth, reviews, dissatisfaction with certain qualities of less expensive machines, some start with a 7424, or GG6, then graduate to a Flex-Rupes-Boss-Etc and often relegate the earlier bought machine to smaller Plates-Pads for smaller-tighter areas.

Many reasons I guess. Some who do it professionally of course cannot rely on just one machine in their arsenal, when time is money. Have a machine go down in the middle of a customer's detail, a pro would then be in some deep doo doo without being able to successfully complete the job.

To others it's a hobby, and like a hobby such as musical instruments, amateur astronomy, shooting, fishing, hobbyists often have more than one telescope, more than one firearm, more than one guitar, snare drum, fishing rod-reel, etc etc, you get the picture.
Click to expand...
 
So have owned pretty much every brand polisher and have had 7 machines at once in my arsenal they all have a part in the pie. Can I do basically 99% of my work with one machine..well yes but is hot swapping faster and save more time?? Sure does. So for example the PC has a smaller bell housing but the same throw as my GG6 so on some cars I can't get that spot under the side mirrors with the GG6 so I grab the PC.

As already said I can't have one go down in the middle of a job and then be left dead in the water so back ups are much needed but at the second time, each car and paint system is different as well. So some like the long throws on large flat panels and then a 8mm on the curves.

Some people cut with a rotary or a flex and then finish with a long throws, others it's more of feeling. In my case and a huge reason I got rid of my rupes was the feeling, I do not like the feeling of the trigger and head grip. The BOSS machines were the most comfortable machines to hold especially if if was for long polishing sessions but the stalls annoyed me so I ended up with just multiple GG6 machines and then my PC.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
In some instances one particular DA isn't the best tool for the job. If you're working on super soft paint, a 21mm throw polisher won't be your best option as it creates more heat than a 15mm or 8mm throw. On soft paint an 8mm throw polisher might finish better. The opposite is true when working on hard paint. In these scenarios, it goes with the old saying "its better to have and not need, than need and not have" :)
 
My GG 6 is sufficient. I detail friends cars, and they usually help so the 2nd polisher is the ticket. I also find that a rotary is also a welcomed addition for those severely neglected vehicles.
 
Why does a wood worker have more than one chisel, saw, or wood plane? Why do musicians have more than one instrument?

They are tools in the tool-box. Each system has different characteristics. The Griot's BOSS and Rupes Tools were build as "total systems" with specific pads and chemicals designed with the tool. Larger throw means you'll cover more area while working.. Smaller systems like PE8 or iBird NANO are for getting into those tight spots you can't get the bigger tools into.

Then there is redundancy, no one likes to have a tool fail in the middle of a job, but when it happens, (and sometimes it does), it's nice to be able to complete the job by reaching into the tool-box and grabbing another tool. "Preparation meets opportunity." ~ Neil Peart, Rush.

They are just that, "tools," and like any craftsman, it's good to have more than one tool in the tool box. My dad used to say, "you have to use the right tool for the right job."


Hope this helps!
 
When I just wanna get job done ASAP, Flex 3401.
When I wanna enjoy getting the job done, Rupes 15 mk2.
When I have large, flat surfaces (vans and such) Griots BOSS21
Little spaces: Rupes Mini
Apply wax/Sealant (doesn't happen often) GG6

Had a Duetto for a month or so, seemed redundant with the above so sold it.
 
I like to cut in around a panel with small pads doing all the small areas first. Matching the pad size, shape and throw to whatever I am working on. Then I will do the bigger flatter section with a 15mm, 21mm or forced rotation machine. I do not like edging my machines. I think that causes premature pad and backing plate failure. I would rather use the right size pad and throw. So I have all my machines ready to go. I may decide that I have no use for this or that machine on a particular car. I do not like to keep stopping to change backing plates so all my DA's are set with a certain sized BP. I only swap out BP on my rotaries.
 
I STILL use my PC7424XP as my Mini-DA and sealant or wax applicator. However, I bought the Flex 3401 as my primary DA. What I did notice right away is what took about 8 - 12 hours to do a complete correction on a ride (compound/polish) was reduced by 50% with the Flex 3401. That alone is one of the reasons why I think it was a great decision to get another DA.

I went with the Flex as it was the only Forced Rotational DA (at the time I bought it) and I did not want another free float DA. IMO it was the best decision I have made. OTHERS may have a different opinion, however, this is MY OPINION.

If you enjoy detailing and work on vehicles on a regular basis, I would highly recommend getting an upgraded DA like the Flex or Rupes or Griot's. You can't go wrong with their stronger DA's. You will reduce your correcting times and seeing quicker results of your work which is always a good thing.

So it's up to you if you decide to upgrade, but the great thing is you have many choices available. Today's DA's like the brands I mentioned above are the powerhouses of the industry.

Now that I have stated my 2 cents worth, the most important thing out of all of this is:

Welcome to AGO! You will find out this is one of the most friendliest forums around. Whatever you decide to do, let us know!

Keep on Rocking!
 
Cruzscarwash said:
So have owned pretty much every brand polisher and have had 7 machines at once in my arsenal they all have a part in the pie. Can I do basically 99% of my work with one machine..well yes but is hot swapping faster and save more time?? Sure does. So for example the PC has a smaller bell housing but the same throw as my GG6 so on some cars I can't get that spot under the side mirrors with the GG6 so I grab the PC.

As already said I can't have one go down in the middle of a job and then be left dead in the water so back ups are much needed but at the second time, each car and paint system is different as well. So some like the long throws on large flat panels and then a 8mm on the curves.

Some people cut with a rotary or a flex and then finish with a long throws, others it's more of feeling. In my case and a huge reason I got rid of my rupes was the feeling, I do not like the feeling of the trigger and head grip. The BOSS machines were the most comfortable machines to hold especially if if was for long polishing sessions but the stalls annoyed me so I ended up with just multiple GG6 machines and then my PC.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

What is your take between the PC style polisher and a Rupes Duetto polisher? If you where to take out the price between them lol.

I have just started out doing mine and familys and friends cars. The first polisher I got was a 21mm longthrow polisher and a 5" backing plate to use with that. Fast I was noticed it's not so great at doing small spaces like a-pillars and b-pillars and front bumper and back bumpers and some other places like horisontall of fenders. So bought a mini 3" polisher 12mm throw polisher. Sure the Rupes ibrid nano polisher would have been great to have sometimes. But there is the cost of the kit to high for me. I have in mind to buy a new polisher. This is cause of the physically state I'm in with injuries that are permanent. Know it's leaning to the Rupes LH19E rotary polisher cause of the smoothness and the low vibrations from them. Have gone between the Rupes 15mm mkII or a Mille direct driven orbital polisher. But think I will end up with a rotary polisher. The abrasives and pads has been developed to an awesome standard under the last years. You can polish with a rotary in very low rpm and they get safer to use. Before you needed to get up over a certain temperature before the abrasives started to break down the 3M abrasives was known for this. Know it's better to have the low temperature when going over the paint. So I think it has been a scare to go through clearcoats. At the same time you don't get to be a fool when useing a rotary. And that is the same with a DA of any kind with a aggressive combo of compound and pad. The cutting ability on them has gone up to a very high cut. And the combo with that clearcoats has been thinner and thinner. Then if you have bought an used vehical and don't have access to a paint thickness gauge. You have not a clue how much of clearcoat you have to work with.
 
lovenhim said:
Thank you for the reply. That is what I was thinking. The main reason is "just because". :) I was not sure if there was a technical reason for it such as a free spinning DA does better on certain panels or contours while a forced rotation unit is better for other areas of a vehicle.
Click to expand...

I'm a hobbyist but I have a PC, GG3, G15, G21 and Makita PO5000. I started with the PC and it sits mostly idle these days. The G15 and G21 are slightly redundant but they are long throw and not suitable for tight quarters and tasks that do not require long throw. I got the Makita because I wanted a forced rotation for compounding and polishing. The GG3 is mostly used for applying wax and sealant and very tight areas.

Of course there is a "just because" factor but I'm not really budget-constrained so in some ways I behave unconstrained when I read the forums here encouraging me to get something new. I stayed away from Rupes and Flex ONLY because of warranty concerns. I'm an infrequent user of these polishers and I wanted the GG because of the warranty terms more than anything else. The Makita has the warranty concern but I trust Makita more than I do a European manufacturer in terms of durability.
 
I can do most everything with the PC. I've buffed out sanding marks with it, polished an a 1st place 2018 Autorama entry with it, and use it on every cleaner wax job I've done in the past couple of years. It makes a great sander as well.

I have the Flex 3401, and will use that on large vehicles because it comfortably spins a 6.5" pad.

I have Rupes Duetto and Mini. They're a little redundant, but the performance is undeniable. Very similar to the PC. I had a 21, but didn't see much of an improvement over the Duetto, so it is gone.

The Rupes in my world are superfluous, even though they are probably the most dynamic option I have. The underdog PC has a certain charm to it.

The other reason I've been using the PC so much is product validation. I recommend this tool and certain accessories to people interested in learning to care for their paint. I want to make sure they have products that can do the job.
 
Ok, let's see... many reasons as a pro, if you are a hobbyist, none I can think would make much sense.

Here is a list of what I have in terms of polishers:

Dewalt Rotary (can't remember model number)
Rupes Bigfoot 21ES (now dead and I don't think I will get it repaired)
Griot's Garage Boss G15
Torx 10X
Porter Cable
Meguiars G110V2
Griot's Garage 3"

So why so many?

The GG 3" is for small spots that a larger polisher either will not be able to get to, or would be hard to use on. I also use it when I do scratch repairs sometimes. Also useful for headlight sanding.

The Meguiar's now has a carpet and fabric brush attached to it and I use it on interior details to shampoo the seats and carpets.

The Rupes was my main polisher for 4 years but it died on me and the repair center told me that the issue is the electronic control unit and they are supposedly very expensive. Since I live in Canada it would already cost me an arm and a leg to send it to the USA for repair so with that added to the repair cost, it would very likelly come close to buying a new one. So I am done with Rupes.

The GG Boss 15 is now my main polisher. I don't like it as much as the Rupes 21 but it works. It stalls more than the Rupes even if the orbit is shorter, so I should have gotten the 21mm one instead since I do have to switch to my short throw polisher anytime there are curves on panels.

The Torx I purchased as a backup in case my main polisher died. But I use it often because most cars have curves panels.

The Porter Cable was my backup unit but I think it's underpowered, I will likelly put a 3 inch backplate on it and have it replace the GG 3", if I can find an even smaller backplate to fit the GG 3" (either 1" or 2")

So it all comes down to efficiency. I could use the Boss 15 on every car, but that would be wasting time if the pad kept stoping or spinning slowly. So as an enthousiast, saving a few minutes or even an hour or two on a detail is not gonna matter much, especially if you enjoy doing it. But as a pro, everywhere I can save time is either money in my pocket or more leisure time for me. So it's important to have the tool that will do the best job in any situation.
 
For me, and my small mobile business, I have the Duetto and the HF DA.

I use the Duetto for all major polishing and compounding, and often edge it for the smaller areas where I can. I am mostly doing quick AIOs and not show cars.

I have the other DA as a backup, for sanding and polishing headlights, polishing small areas if I want, using a brush for interiors or tires, and using an AutoSrcub pad(clay pad/disk).

I can get a smaller backing plate for the Duetto, but it is expensive. The Duetto is also hard on clay pads because it’s lowest setting is too high for them, and I would not like to use the Duetto as a tire or carpet scrubber if it were possible.

I believe you have more options/accessories for the PC style polisher like brushes and different sized backing plates. You are pretty limited on backing plate sizes for the >8mm throw machines, and I haven’t seen a brush built into a backing plate for them. Then again, most may not want to use around wetness anyway.

Also, having a short throw machine allows you to polish closer to edges more comfortably.

And then there are forced rotation DAs and rotarys...
 
For me it's also about spreading the load across various machines to (purportedly) increase their life span too. I use my PC7424 for headlights with a 3" backing plate (and for small hard to reach areas). I use my Makita PO5000C for extreme cutting and compounding in gear driven mode - tons of torque and never even gets warm. The BOSS G15 I use for just about everything, but if the job requires heavy cut, the PO5000C gets used for step 1 and then I switch to the G15 for fine cut and finishing. My GG6 is also an all-around machine that now is really my backup should any of the others go down. If I had to use/own one, I would give the nod to the BOSS G15 - ultra smooth and excellent ergonomics, and never have any issue with stalling on speeds 4.5 or higher.

ScottH
 
In all honesty, for me it was that "What am I missing" feeling.

My PC always did what I asked of it. (My vehicles are always babied, and I never have any hardcore correction to do).

But, I always wondered if I should have gotten the GG6. Well, I broke down and bought one. I have to say I really love the GG6, and while I will say it has more power, and better ergonomics, I could have just stayed with the PC for my needs if my curiosity hadn't gotten to me. (Being SO impressed with all the Griot's products I ordered didn't help, either) Lol

That being said, I now have my GG6, and my PC which really excels as my 3" polisher.

Also, peace of mind in the Griot's lifetime warranty, plus having used PC tools for over 30 years, I know they can go to hell & back without missing a beat.

To close, I do not regret having both.
 
Calendyr said:
Ok, let's see... many reasons as a pro, if you are a hobbyist, none I can think would make much sense.

Here is a list of what I have in terms of polishers:

Dewalt Rotary (can't remember model number)
Rupes Bigfoot 21ES (now dead and I don't think I will get it repaired)
Griot's Garage Boss G15
Torx 10X
Porter Cable
Meguiars G110V2
Griot's Garage 3"

So why so many?

The GG 3" is for small spots that a larger polisher either will not be able to get to, or would be hard to use on. I also use it when I do scratch repairs sometimes. Also useful for headlight sanding.

The Meguiar's now has a carpet and fabric brush attached to it and I use it on interior details to shampoo the seats and carpets.

The Rupes was my main polisher for 4 years but it died on me and the repair center told me that the issue is the electronic control unit and they are supposedly very expensive. Since I live in Canada it would already cost me an arm and a leg to send it to the USA for repair so with that added to the repair cost, it would very likelly come close to buying a new one. So I am done with Rupes.

The GG Boss 15 is now my main polisher. I don't like it as much as the Rupes 21 but it works. It stalls more than the Rupes even if the orbit is shorter, so I should have gotten the 21mm one instead since I do have to switch to my short throw polisher anytime there are curves on panels.

The Torx I purchased as a backup in case my main polisher died. But I use it often because most cars have curves panels.

The Porter Cable was my backup unit but I think it's underpowered, I will likelly put a 3 inch backplate on it and have it replace the GG 3", if I can find an even smaller backplate to fit the GG 3" (either 1" or 2")

So it all comes down to efficiency. I could use the Boss 15 on every car, but that would be wasting time if the pad kept stoping or spinning slowly. So as an enthousiast, saving a few minutes or even an hour or two on a detail is not gonna matter much, especially if you enjoy doing it. But as a pro, everywhere I can save time is either money in my pocket or more leisure time for me. So it's important to have the tool that will do the best job in any situation.
Click to expand...
Griots has a 2" plate setup you could use for your gg3

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
I plan on buying a Makita PO5000c to go with my RBL which I believe is a 15mm but my be an 18 mm throw.

I also have 3 Rotarys ,2 Makita 9237's because at times I want to up to 2200 rpm or even a bit more and they are light so they don't bother my troublesome arm as much
The other is a Milwaukee 5460 0 to 1750 rpm,,it's old reliable since 1993 and I use it mostly for buffing wet sanded vehicles.
I like it for that because of the weight,,it's heavy but comfy ,,it's almost like an appendage I've used it so long:buffing:
 
The Rupes was my main polisher for 4 years but it died on me and the repair center told me that the issue is the electronic control unit and they are supposedly very expensive. Since I live in Canada it would already cost me an arm and a leg to send it to the USA for repair so with that added to the repair cost, it would very likelly come close to buying a new one. So I am done with Rupes.

The GG Boss 15 is now my main polisher. I don't like it as much as the Rupes 21 but it works. It stalls more than the Rupes even if the orbit is shorter, so I should have gotten the 21mm one instead since I do have to switch to my short throw polisher anytime there are curves on panel

**********************************************************

That's unfortunate. Seems like a machine as well made (?) as that would back you up on a failure of any kind.

Just my observation. And, yeah...... I know I might hear that same old stuff that others have thrown at me. But, I'm just making my observations upon reading posts from others.
 
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