Why do I keep getting hologram out of D151 !?

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cobraa

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I want to love D151.. I really want !! but I'm starting to give up with that product..

Everytime I taclke a dark-colored paint, it seems to cause some holograms or haze. I usually hit it with an orange CCS pad but after having these problems.. I thought : D151 don't like agressive pad.

So today I did a chevrolet van with a dark metallic blue paint. I used D151 with a white CCS pad on a makita rotary speed 2.5 . It looked great... then the sun went down and I could see buffer trail.

It's freakin weird ; Usually defect only shows under true sunlight, well today it was the other way. Under bright sun, paint look perfect ( the car is only 6 month old, just a quick 1-step was enought) but with the cloud, I could see buffer trails.

Yes, I prep my pad so there's no dry buffing, I also use from panel to panel, DP conditionner spritz. I don't get it.. it's only a white ccs pad... That polish only seems to look good on light colored car, every time I hit it on a dark-colored car it seems to give bad result.Feed back please

I love the smell, the cost, how easy it's to buff out, I like the wax inside. but this is turning me off. Maybe I should stick to Menzerna SIP and 106ff. maybe I should have tackle that car with SIP and wite ccs.
 
Not had that issue with D151 on black. You can always follow up with D151 via a DA after correcting with a rotary.
 
On dark colored soft paints slow your makita down to 1.5 and lighten the pressure on your last pass, that white pad should have no holograms if your keeping the pad flat and lower the speed just a tad
 
I also had the same problem with a white pad. Like they say you can use a grey pad but then again its a ONE step. I dont want to have to go over the entire car again for the same price i'd minus well use sip and 106 for that! I did use a rotary on a red car and the holograms where pretty bad. Im sure though, if you slow it down a bit and lighten up on pressure it should be a no holo finish
 
Kevin Brown gets way in depth about polishing with rotary and D-151 on some of his overseas posts. I suggest that you look into it for some of your answers.
 
Finishing down to near perfection with a rotary regardless of products is pretty darn hard... I use 151 regularly with a Mega polishing pad and Flex with no probs whatsoever and I also use 151 with a wool pad on gelcoat with no buffer trails... Granted gel coat is way harder
One way I found to finish nicely with 151 and a rotary when I was doing one steppers on paint was to do the initial pass with med-light pressure to correct and the a second pass with no pressure at a lower speed to jewel the finish with no pressure
Try it and see how that works for you, did for me but now I simply prefer the flex for all paint
 
jamores23 said:
link for brown?
Click to expand...
Posting links to other detailing sites is against the rules. Google Kevin Brown method, uk and you'll find it.

One night I set out to read everything that I could find written by Kevin Brown and as a result of taking what I learned that night and applying that info, tweaking the techniques that I had already developed for myself, I was able to do the best correction work I'd ever done and in half the time. I have been able to put my DA polisher on a shelf and produce hologram free paint finishes using my rotary only.

While there are a lot of great tips and suggestions all over the internet I still had to go out and try them. Some I liked and some I didn't. In the end I developed a technique that works for me and now use it often. I am constantly studying what is going on where the pad meets the paint and it seems that no two jobs can be done exactly alike so I just need to have to be willing to change my approach with trying different pads, machine speed settings, applied pressure, arm speed etc. There is a learning curve on each and every job that I do. Good luck figuring it out for yourself.
 
fredcandetail said:
Finishing down to near perfection with a rotary regardless of products is pretty darn hard... I use 151 regularly with a Mega polishing pad and Flex with no probs whatsoever and I also use 151 with a wool pad on gelcoat with no buffer trails... Granted gel coat is way harder
One way I found to finish nicely with 151 and a rotary when I was doing one steppers on paint was to do the initial pass with med-light pressure to correct and the a second pass with no pressure at a lower speed to jewel the finish with no pressure
Try it and see how that works for you, did for me but now I simply prefer the flex for all paint
Click to expand...

Fred's touched on an important point..

A rotary by its operation will induce holograms because it rotates. The key here is how to remove them.

An orange pad on a rotary performs well in removing small surface imperfections and surface oxidation but it is an aggressive pad and will leave something behind.

Progressively, use softer pads, White, Gray, Blue, and Meguiar's D151 and you should see them becoming harder and harder to detect. Slowing the speed with a softer pad is also another way to remove them but the approach might be dictated by the paint itself.

I always finish up with a dual action polisher. This is a sure fire way to even everything out and because of its operation makes it an ideal tool for every detailer...
 
Maybe I should buy a PC just for doing one-step detail so I don't have to worry about buffer trails.

How much longer would a PC take me to do the same job with a rotary?

BTW, I can finish to perfection with Cyan SIP and Tangerine 106FF then gold with Menzena finishing glaze for burnishin the paint all with a rotary.
 
cobraa said:
Maybe I should buy a PC just for doing one-step detail so I don't have to worry about buffer trails.

How much longer would a PC take me to do the same job with a rotary?

BTW, I can finish to perfection with Cyan SIP and Tangerine 106FF then gold with Menzena finishing glaze for burnishin the paint all with a rotary.
Click to expand...

I dont suggest getting a pc for that. In my opinion you should practice till you master it. Its the only way you'll get it done right. Ive been trough the same but i have never set my makita aside. Practice makes perfect. On the other hand i do have a pc! I just like the fact how fast you can apply a wax or sealants with that thing.
 
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