Why take the oils off a polish?

joche26

joche26

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Why do people wipe with IPA after polishing, from some of the research ive made some people do it to see what the "true" surface looks like, but arent does oils suposed to be there?
 
There are a couple reasons to strip the surface with IPA, CarPro Eraser or something similar:

1. Most compounds/polish have a small degree of filling effect. By removing the polishing oils you reveal the true condition of the substrate you are working on. This ensures you are removing defects and not just filling them.

2. Waxes, sealants, and coatings are designed to bond with clean paint. If polishing oils are present it *may* interfere with the chemical bonding action of your LSP. This is more important with sealants and coatings than it is with a typical carnauba wax.
 
It depends on what polish your using. I find that if I am applying a wax then something like Dodo Juice Lime Prime (or Lime Prime Lite) actually help when waxing. If I am applying a paint coating or sealant I want all the polishing oils removed.

As I use water based polishes there is no need for IPA.
 
Ok so let me see if i got this right, If I plan to use Menzerna polishes I dont really need to IPA because on the label I read that they were water based.
 
joche26 said:
Ok so let me see if i got this right, If I plan to use Menzerna polishes I dont really need to IPA because on the label I read that they were water based.
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Well... you stll might want to strip the paint (at least on your test spot) to make sure you aren't leaving holograms, micro-marring, etc and to know that you are getting the results you are looking for.

Sent from my LG-VM701 using AG Online
 
joche26 said:
Ok so let me see if i got this right, If I plan to use Menzerna polishes I dont really need to IPA because on the label I read that they were water based.
Click to expand...

You should still use IPA. At the VERY least, a damp microfiber towel should be run over the paint and then wiped with a dry microfiber.
 
I like using something like ONR mixed to clay lube ratio to help remove compoind and polish film/residue. Something like a rinseless wash or waterless wash are nice to use if you dont want to or cant pull the vehicle out to wash the dust and residue off before applying the LSP.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online
 
The first time I used M205 and went straight to a sealant it wouldn't bond because of the oils. I now use Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze after polishing and then go to my sealant.
 
joche26 said:
Ok so let me see if i got this right, If I plan to use Menzerna polishes I dont really need to IPA because on the label I read that they were water based.
Click to expand...
What label said that it was water based?
 
Rsurfer said:
What label said that it was water based?
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Use the Menzerna Intro Kit on any type of paint, with or without a clear coat. Both polishes are dust-free, water-based, non-silicone, and contain no wax, got this from the Autogeek store
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
There are a couple reasons to strip the surface with IPA, CarPro Eraser or something similar:

1. Most compounds/polish have a small degree of filling effect. By removing the polishing oils you reveal the true condition of the substrate you are working on. This ensures you are removing defects and not just filling them.

2. Waxes, sealants, and coatings are designed to bond with clean paint. If polishing oils are present it *may* interfere with the chemical bonding action of your LSP. This is more important with sealants and coatings than it is with a typical carnauba wax.
Click to expand...

Nick nailed it all right there. :iagree:

joche26 said:
Use the Menzerna Intro Kit on any type of paint, with or without a clear coat. Both polishes are dust-free, water-based, non-silicone, and contain no wax, got this from the Autogeek store
Click to expand...

All the menzerna polishes I have used seem to be exceptionally oily and are known for it. They definitely have fillers in them. Great products but certainly oily ime.
 
The thing I can't get a grasp on is a lot of manufacturers "pre wax cleaners" that THEY recommend using leave something behind. I think a lot of them have a glaze component to them. Swissvax Cleaner Fluid (their PreWax cleaner) actually says "pre-wax oil" right on the label. Yet, manufacturers recommend the products prior to using their wax.

Another thing, what are you supposed to use as a "paint cleaner" if you are applying a sealant, since most PWCs leave something behind?? The only company I know that addresses this is Auto Finesse, as the make a pre sealant cleaner.

Does a product like BGEP leave anything behind? It sure seems like it does. Wouldn't this affect the bonding of BFWD?
 
The paint cleaners often have fillers and may also be developed in concert with a sealant from the same line. Even if not from the same line they often work well together. We are talking waxes and sealants here. Still people want to check their polishing. Personally I don't need to check it with a stripper on every section. Once I know I'm getting the results on a car I repeat my method and simply check now and then and if something changes in the defects or surface type. The oils may affect the wax or sealant a lot with some combos or none at all with others. I believe sealants and waxes have varying amounts of solvents in them which is one of the things that affect how well they can dissolve some of the oils left behind. In any case if a wax or sealant loses 10-50% durability it's a huge difference compared to a coating losing 85-95% of it's durability.

With coatings you really want no oil or filler on the surface. It must be CLEAN. However with many sealants and waxes it's not so important
 
The only time I've ever heard of someone wiping down a area with a water/alcohol mix was to ensure the area is truly free of defects. Not just filled in. What would be the point of using an oil rich polish or glaze just to remove the oils that are being applied.in the first place? I only use Meguiar's pro line products and I would never think to apply a product like #7 and just basically wipe it all off. Or a product like #80 that will also add some oils to the paint. In all the years I've been detailing, I always go right to the LSP. Not undo time and product by removing it.
 
acsuppa said:
The only time I've ever heard of someone wiping down a area with a water/alcohol mix was to ensure the area is truly free of defects. Not just filled in. What would be the point of using an oil rich polish or glaze just to remove the oils that are being applied.in the first place? I only use Meguiar's pro line products and I would never think to apply a product like #7 and just basically wipe it all off. Or a product like #80 that will also add some oils to the paint. In all the years I've been detailing, I always go right to the LSP. Not undo time and product by removing it.
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Ya, completely different process. Using glazes it would be very silly to use alcohol afterwards. :cheers:
 
Exactly. That's why I found it extremely odd for someone to remove all oils before applying a LSP. I mean, in theory it would make sence to have a completely clean, oil free finish but we all know that really doesn't apply go the detailing world. plus, the oils should be well worked into the paint completely wiped off the finish. We want go lock in that perfectly created finish.
 
I think a perfectly created finish needs no oils at all if it is "perfect". If it has been polished and refined to the highest level then no oils can add further clarity by filling scratches that dont exist. However if it has been polished something less than perfect the oils will help hide and fill the tiny little swirls or marring left by the polishing abrasives.
 
If a customer is paying for swirl removal, than they better get that and not simply filling with polishing oils. For personal vehicles, not so much a problem.
 
So, just to clarify. If you final finish a black car with an oily polish like SF4500 (Po85Rd) are you using IPA or Eraser afterwards, or going right to LSP (assuming LSP is not a coating)?

My method would be to wipe off polish residue with something like Eraser or a waterless wash, then blow down the car with air when done. After that, wipe down each panel with ONR or waterless wash right before I apply the LSP. As, all kinds of dust gets on it right away.
 
-What use to aggravate the dog-pi$$ outta me was:

-After removing/attempting-to-remove all 'oils' from perfected[by me (?) :rolleyes:]-vehicle-panels;
...........(and, just prior to applying an LSP)...........
I'd noticed that, evidently, Someone :dunno: must have sneaked behind my back, again,
and introduced a bunch of 'minor-blemishes' aaalllll over the previously-perfected-panels. :eek:


-"I'll teach that dirty, no-good, So&So"!!!...I finally said under my breath.

"No more oils-wiping for me, if that's how HE wants to be;
From this day forward: Straight to the LSP's!! Hee...Hee".


-(Unless instructed to do otherwise by: "LSP-manufacturers'-directions", that is)

:)

Bob
 
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