Why to use IronX on any car ! ?

96Lude said:
It would be better to use Iron X before you clay since it can dissolve a certain amount of contamination and remove it, which will make your claying step easier and faster.

I think of it this way, like your skin, car paint is porous. Iron X will remove what is deep in the pores of the paint, then the clay will remove the rest of what is sitting on the top layer.
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On on car that is not maintained, then yes I would use iron x before claying but I've found this way works best on a maintained car. When I did my winter prep I clayed before IX but hardly got anything. Don't even think I needed to clay but I make it a general rule to do so before putting a buffer to the paint.

To use your analogy, if the pores are covered with organic contaminants, then the IX won't be able to reach and really deep clean everything.

Yes, you might contaminate your clay more if you clay first, but it isn't an issue for a well maintained, garaged car (at home and at work) like mine and my way saves me the drying step (so the IX is not diluted) since I dry as I clay.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
And FWIW I hardly ever do the caustic/acid decon BECAUSE it's not that simple/safe and it's a pain in the neck, and that's why I'm asking, not because I'm trying to hang you up.
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Mike,

I think it makes good common sense to chemically remove iron particles versus try to clay them out. Any product that can help a wide spectrum of people including those with little experience in the craft of detailing I would endorse as long as it's proven to be simple to use and safe when used with common sense.


Does that help?


:confused:
 
Can you use iron x on a fully sealed and waxed car or is it recommended to use on non sealed or waxed car?
 
iron x will strip waxes to some degree but won't affect sealants as much.

I've seen it strip (no more beading) whatever protection KAIO leaves behind, but not bother DG501 very much at all.

Best to do it as part of the prep before getting to the lsp though...
 
When I use iron-X on a car for the first time I use a slightly different method.

Since I really want the iron-X to reach the surface of the paint so it can act on the iron particles I..........

Wash the car.
Clay the car.
Apply Iron-X, several time if required.
Wash the car again.
Then start whatever correction and finishing processes are required.

I look at it this way. Iron-X must be able to contact the iron particles for it be able to work at it's best.
Plus soap is way cheaper than Iron-X.
 
Ok, so I used this on my wifes white Outback this morning. First off, I used way less then I previously posted. I was wrong though in what I did post, I actually had closer to half the bottle left. But i now have another issue (or could be user error in case I missed something somewhere)...

The spray nozzle was, at times, 'spitting' instead of misting and occasionally would have to pump 2 to 3 times before product would come out. Now this was not in the initial sprays, it happened quite a few times as I was working my way around the car.

Is there something I may have missed that the sprayer needs to be rinsed or something after every use before storing?

Thanks!
 
do you have the metal spring or the plastic spring in your sprayer?
 
embolism said:
do you have the metal spring or the plastic spring in your sprayer?
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As soon as I posted I was sure that was going to be the first question asked, I should have stated that I have the plastic spring sprayer (newer).
 
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