Will a glaze be beneficial to a garage queen/show car?

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nerfball

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Hi all,

My name's Gordon and this is my first post. I have been in the car scene for over 6 years now but have never gotten into the detailing world until now. I own two garage queens/show cars and am hoping to get them ready for the summer. I only own retail products that can be bought at Walmart (Mother's, Meguiar's, etc.) but will be making a rather large purchase soon from AG. One of my babies is copper (similar to Acura's CL) and the other is orange (similar to Lambo's). The paint on both cars are rather mint except the copper one has a bunch of swirl marks from being the one parked closer to the garage entrance door :(. So with that in mind, I am thinking of ordering these products:

- Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay (w/ XMT lube)
- Poorboy's SSR2.5 (w/ orange CCS pad)
- Poorboy's SSR1 (w/ white CCS pad)
- Four Star UPP (w/ gray CCS pad)
- Pinnacle Liquid Souveran (w/ gray CCS pad & Cobra Indigo micro)
- Poorboy's World Spray & Gloss (w/ Cobra Deluxe Jr. 600 micro)

Now my REAL question is, would a glaze be beneficial to my cars even with all the products I will be using? I've searched and the general census is that a glaze isn't worth using with higher end sealants and waxes. If a glaze IS beneficial which ones are "the best" for lighter colored cars? I've been eyeing Poorboy's World White Diamond and Menzerna's glaze but have no real education on what makes a glaze good. Sorry for my long first post but I'm always trying to learn new things! Thanks in advance!

PS. The cars have never been polished or sealed before, just washed and waxed.

Gordon
 
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Welcome to AG. What kind of machine do you have?
 
Rsurfer said:
Be sure to get 5.5" pads with a 5" backing plate. 4" pads would help you on tight areas.:buffing:
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I was planning on getting 6.5" pads because I'm a new PC user so the extra pad to plate clearance is tempting. Are the 5.5" pads better in terms of getting into tighter spots? I will be taping everything up though...
 


I read a post, either on here, or on the Meguiars forums, that on todays two stage paints, a glaze is not really necessary. Ultimately, a proper, thorough buffing/polishing is what truly makes a painted surface shine. A glaze cannot really penetrate todays modern clear coats to provide much benefit, if any.

In the days of single stage paints, a glaze (polish in megs terminology) could be applied after a thorough buffing/polishing to rejuvenate/moisten the paint, as the color coat could actually absorb the oils in the glaze.





 


akimel said:
Give Poorboys' White Diamond Show Glaze a try.
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I'm sure this is a great product, but read the quote...


Poorboys' White Diamond Show Glaze said:
Poorboy’s World White Diamond Show Glaze for Light Vehicles hides light imperfections and improves gloss to give your vehicle a show car shine! Apply Poorboy’s World White Diamond Show Glaze any time to conceal minor blemishes between details. All white, silver, and light colors will shine like diamonds!

Poorboy’s World White Diamond Show Glaze for Light Vehicles contains gentle cleaners to lift dirt and oil out of fine swirls. By cleaning the swirls, they appear less noticeable. Fillers then conceal the swirls to create the illusion of perfectly smooth paint. Once a wax or sealant is applied, your vehicle will look flawless!
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Buffing/polishing is what ultimately makes a finished painted surface truly shine. If you are really adamant on creating a show car finish, you will want to learn how to machine buff/polish your vehicles. Whether you use a rotary, or an orbital, (PC) that's entirely up to you, but I would highly advise the PC :xyxthumbs:

If you want to dramatically reduce working time maintaining a flawless finish, then this product would be great in between extensive details, but remember, buffing/polishing is what ultimately creates the sought after result (mirror finish) that professional detailers & hobbiest's alike are looking for.


peace :buffing:





 
Fly bye said:
Buffing/polishing is what ultimately makes a finished painted surface truly shine. If you are really adamant on creating a show car finish, you will want to learn how to machine buff/polish your vehicles. Whether you use a rotary, or an orbital, (PC) that's entirely up to you, but I would highly advise the PC :xyxthumbs:
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Thanks for your input! I understand that glazes 'hide' imperfections but how often am I allowed to cut polish my car? If I have minor swirls a few months after a full detail is it advisable to cut polish the entire car again or is that when a glaze should be used? I just don't want to be too hard on the paint. I would like to learn to get all the swirls out of the paint, the glaze I thought would help me with the 1-5% that I could've missed.
 
I'm of the opinion that show cars/garage queens don't NEED wax. Wax is for protection, and if the car never sees extended outdoor use, it doesn't need it.

On our show cars, it's glaze only, no wax. Polish to remove defects and then glaze.

Yeah, that's the ticket.
 
nerfball said:
If I have minor swirls a few months after a full detail is it advisable to cut polish the entire car again or is that when a glaze should be used?
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If you follow good washing practices then you should not have to worry about swirls after you are done. I have managed to keep my DD free of swirls for 1 1/2 years by paying close attention on how I wash and dry it. Nothing but the softest and cleanest towels and wash mitts will touch it.
 
forest is mothers slow in releasing the wheell/tire cleaner combo? i cant find it anywhere here in oregon yet. thanks
 
Dubbin1 said:
If you follow good washing practices then you should not have to worry about swirls after you are done. I have managed to keep my DD free of swirls for 1 1/2 years by paying close attention on how I wash and dry it. Nothing but the softest and cleanest towels and wash mitts will touch it.
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I agree here. If you are swirling that quickly it must be a cleaning technique or tool (mash mitt or whatever). For show cars you should buy high quality stuff. Read up on the 2 bucket method, various washing tools (I use boars hair brushes, most use MF or sheepskin mitts), waffle weave drying towels and microfiber towels for polish, wax, and quick detail.

And, yes, 5 in backing plate and 5.5 pads are much easier to use. They fit in tight spaces easier. They also are less resistant to spinning, so, correction is easier to achieve. I also recommend 3.5 backing plate and 4 in pads.
 
forrest@mothers said:
I'm of the opinion that show cars/garage queens don't NEED wax. Wax is for protection, and if the car never sees extended outdoor use, it doesn't need it.

On our show cars, it's glaze only, no wax. Polish to remove defects and then glaze.

Yeah, that's the ticket.
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And that's a great point!
 
daveinsweethome said:
forest is mothers slow in releasing the wheell/tire cleaner combo? i cant find it anywhere here in oregon yet. thanks
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Baxter Auto has it, Pep Boys has it, and AutoZone has it.

PM me with the city you're in and I'll find some outlets if the above don't work.
Sorry for the thread hijack.
 


nerfball said:
how often am I allowed to cut polish my car? If I have minor swirls a few months after a full detail is it advisable to cut polish the entire car again
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If your'e talking about ''minor swirls", then a minor polishing with a ''non aggressive" method (polishing pad, light polish, PC, light pressure, ect) will not hurt anything. Also, there is nothing wrong with oils, fillers, wax, ect to hide small blemishes, and ultimately create & maintain a great looking finish.

If your vehicles are in fact "garage queens", and you utilize proper techniques in cleaning/wipe downs ect, you shouldn't have to perform a major correction every two months. If you were to perform maintainance every 2 months, that would be 6 times per year. If you cannot prevent heavier wear & tear on your paint, (as in a daily driven vehicle) then a product that hides/fills imperfections is not a bad idea if you don't want to buff the paint 6 times a year.

Just remember, an ultra smooth surface/finish is what truly make the paint pop.




:buffing:





 
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