HD.Detailing
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- Jan 26, 2014
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i spot buffed 22ple pro, m205 white pad.. when i did ipa it stuck to the buffed area and beaded and rolled of coated area.. did 2-3 passes, hope that helps
Will M205 or SF4000 Remove CQuartz?
- Thread starter theblob640
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theblob640
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- Mar 4, 2013
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- #22
Exactly what I was looking for. That is good to hear. Not sure how CQuartz would hold but they are both coatings so it should be similar. Again, I am not trying to correct paint as far as removing swirls, just enough to remove the minerals deposited on top of the coating. More like shaving the "hairs" off, if referring to skin, per say. Hopefully I won't have to go through the polishing phase. If CarPro spotless works, it will save me TONS of time.
Thanks for your input.
You can layer it around an hour or so later. But after that it won't bond, it'll just reject the next coat that is applied by making it bead up. You have to layer it before it cures.
Maybe your right. I was looking at the CarPro web site on "Cquartz UK". For CQUK, it says to wait a "minimum" one hour before layer.
" - Can also be layered: Allow 1 hour minimum wait time after buffing to allow cure before applying another coat."
I interpret that to be anytime after one hour you can later CQUK.
I just recall Corey saying after you wait so long you can't layer it. Not sure the time frame though.
zmcgovern45
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- Sep 5, 2012
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This is true of Finest, but I have never layered CQUK (although I assume it would act similarly after it had started to harden).
Finest is a completely different formula and hardens much quicker. Just for the sake of taking a picture, I wiped a little bit of Finest on an area that had been coated (2 coats) roughly 10 minutes prior and the new coating beaded up right away and would not spread on the surface. It is kind of hard to see because the beads are so tiny and the red paint is bright, but look closely... Pretty awesome if you ask me.
theblob640
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- Mar 4, 2013
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Well, I received and used CarPro Spotless 2 days ago and all I have to see is I am more than happy with the results. It completely removed all the water spots and the best part is the CQuartz is still there. This saved me a lot of time from polishing out pretty much half the car.
The process I went with is a quick wipe down with UWW+. After that, I sprayed CarPro spotless, working one panel at a time using a yellow foam wax applicator pad to work the product in. Following that, a quick rinse to neutralize the acid. Repeat until the panels affected are done.
Quick recap before:
Results
Hood:
Passenger fender
Clear bra:
Overall, I am very pleased with this product. Needless to say, my car is back to its original glory. Thanks all for the help.
The process I went with is a quick wipe down with UWW+. After that, I sprayed CarPro spotless, working one panel at a time using a yellow foam wax applicator pad to work the product in. Following that, a quick rinse to neutralize the acid. Repeat until the panels affected are done.
Quick recap before:
Results
Hood:
Passenger fender
Clear bra:
Overall, I am very pleased with this product. Needless to say, my car is back to its original glory. Thanks all for the help.
GreatAvalon
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- Feb 16, 2014
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Yay! Good to know as I am using CQUK soon.
Hazcat
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- Jan 14, 2013
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That's great! Good to hear you got it back without a recoat. I was thinking I have used Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay, clay bars, auto clay, paint cleaning bar in the past for things like this. It's not supposed to even remove some waxes. I wonder if it would have been tough enough to get the water spots off. Hmmmm.......
theblob640
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- Mar 4, 2013
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- #32
I probably should've tried clay first but I didn't want to risk marring the paint which would've made me polish the car again. I used the foam wax applicator pad because I know that pad won't mar my vehicle and went with it.