Window Treatments

slimnib

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I used Aquapel and it doe not work at all. I followed the use instruction to the T.

Today is the first rain day I had the car out of the garage and it is like nothing was no the window.

Therefore, I need a recommendation for a reasonable price window treatment that works.

On Monday, I am going to contact Autogeek customer service and ask for a refund.

Thanks and Happy New Year to all.
 
I used Aquapel and it doe not work at all. I followed the use instruction to the T.

Today is the first rain day I had the car out of the garage and it is like nothing was no the window.

Therefore, I need a recommendation for a reasonable price window treatment that works.

On Monday, I am going to contact Autogeek customer service and ask for a refund.

Thanks and Happy New Year to all.

I've been using pinnacle glass products with great results! Maybe your treatment didn't bond from lack of prep? Did you decontaminate and polish the glass first? Sealants will not bond very well to road grime! :-)
 
Pinnacle or Griots window sealants work well for me. You have to put them on thin. The best way I have found to apply them is to get a blue shop paper towel and wrap a CarPro applicator (CQuartz style) and apply thin.

If you apply them like a regular sealant they are very difficult to remove and take forever to dry. Prep the glass first with a fine or non-abrasive polish, then wipe with IPA.
 
I've been using pinnacle glass products with great results! Maybe your treatment didn't bond from lack of prep? Did you decontaminate and polish the glass first? Sealants will not bond very well to road grime! :-)

Like I said, I followed instructions.
 
Been using Opti-Glass on my windshields and it is still holding strong.
 
I just tried Opti-Glass and found it difficult to apply. There was a tremendous amount of drag when using the foam pad. I haven't had my ride out in the rain but I sprayed water on the windshield and the beads are very small so I guess it worked OK but I'll need to find another way to apply it. I'm wondering if Detailer's Pro glass coating is easier to apply.
 
Rain X works great for me. Afterall, they are the ones everyone else is trying to copy ;)
 
Interesting that Aquapel did not work for you. It's actually a very very good glass treatment.

I recommend trying out CarPro FlyBy30. Easy to use, decent durability, and its cheap.
 
I am going to contact Autogeek customer service and ask for a refund.

Happy New Year to all.
A belated Happy New Year to you.

Just curious:
Did you ever get a refund for the Aquapel?

Bob
 
Rain X works great for me. Afterall, they are the ones everyone else is trying to copy ;)

There are any number of superior products out there operating in this area, they just don't have the marketing force that supports Rain-X. It really should not come as a surprise but a big marketing budget is almost certainly more important than a good product (and I am afraid that this extends to 'detailing grade' products as well).

Our experience is that, most of the time this type of product (not Rain-X, that is a totally different product type) fails, it is down to the preparation. I realise the OP says that he followed the instructions but what precisely was done? We have had people tell us they totally cleaned and decontaminated only to find that means that they used a non-abrasive cleanser and wiped with vinegar. For optimal performance of any of the higher grade glass products, you ideally need to do a machine polish with an abrasive product which is free from silicones of all kinds (because they are really tough to get off after) - this will ensure that you remove any previous coating/product on the glass. Hand polishing and non-abrasive cleansers are not enough, often such things will fail to remove even rain-x. After this you need to remove the polish residue, particularly the oils. It might look clean but polish and compounds use low volatility oils which keep the product workable but the flip side is that these oils will persist for some time (hours, even days) after you have buffed off the visible residue. To get shot of these, you need to get out your volatile panel wipe or IPA and do several passes and ensure that you give adequate time for it all to evaporate. Only then can you be confident that the surface is truly 'clean' glass.

To put in context, we have a product which is a glass cleaner but gives residual water repellency (a bit like rain-x). It is not massively durable and you rarely get more than a couple of months before it isn't really helping you. If, once it starts failing, you give it a clean with APC and wipe with IPA and then follow up with our long life sealant (which is 18 months plus) - the long life sealant will almost certainly fail within weeks. The reason is simple, inspite of the temporary product having clearly begun to fail and a thorough clean having been employed, enough of it remains to get between glass and the higher tech product which then cannot bond properly. This is something we have reproduced with a number of products and our view is that most of the high tech products understate the need for preparation. Of course, if the OP has gone to this full extent and it still has not worked then I am lost because, assuming the surface is genuinely clean, the product simply not working is a bit like jumping out the window and finding that you aren't falling - it goes against nature!
 
you ideally need to do a machine polish with an abrasive product which is free from silicones of all kinds (because they are really tough to get off after) - this will ensure that you remove any previous coating/product on the glass. Hand polishing and non-abrasive cleansers are not enough, often such things will fail to remove even rain-x.

I find this to be true. Before applying the Opti-Glass, I did a thorough machine polish using CarPro CeriGlass and a glass-specific application pad by Griot. I polished in two directions with the DA @ 6. Even after that, I noticed traces of Rain-X that required further attention. To get rid of all traces of the Rain-X I hand scoured the windshield with X steel wool and Stoner's. Then I clayed and IPA'd the surface. Only then did I think to apply the Opti-Clean.

In my experience, wiping on the Opti-Clean was more difficult because the windshield was so clean that the foam pad grabbed the glass making an even application difficult to obtain.
 
In my view, cerium oxide polishing is generally not required. Keep in mind that such polishes are really the fine/finishing polishes so may well take more work than is necessary when it comes to removal of a previous coating.
 
PIPUK: The overall result of all the polishing I did was not encouraging. The windshield has a lot of microspots (for lack of a better term) that I'd hoped to eliminate. Can you recommend a polish that might be more aggressive so the windshield would look almost new again? I have some Meguiar's M105, Optimum Hypercompound spray and Detailer's Pro polish are good for 1500-2000 grit scratches. Would any of these work?

I'm very interested in doing a better job on my windshield.
 
Sorry houckster, I couldnt really comment on specific products. The product we do is closer to a compound with the intention that it is pretty darned coarse and generally followed up by a cerium polish, for the fine correction. Glass, being pretty hard, is not likely to be excessively harmed by giving it a try with the products you mentioned, you always have the cerium to do any little remedial work.
 
PIPUK: The overall result of all the polishing I did was not encouraging. The windshield has a lot of microspots (for lack of a better term) that I'd hoped to eliminate. Can you recommend a polish that might be more aggressive so the windshield would look almost new again? I have some Meguiar's M105, Optimum Hypercompound spray and Detailer's Pro polish are good for 1500-2000 grit scratches. Would any of these work?

I'm very interested in doing a better job on my windshield.

CerriGlass and CarPro Rayon Glass Pads are the best stuff out there to remove defects from glass IME.
 
I tried CarPro Ceriglass along with Griot Garage 3" polishing pads using the Griot's 3" DA polisher on high speed. It was not enough to remove the micropits so I'll have to look for something much more aggressive and use the CeriGlass for fine correction.
 
I tried CarPro Ceriglass along with Griot Garage 3" polishing pads using the Griot's 3" DA polisher on high speed. It was not enough to remove the micropits so I'll have to look for something much more aggressive and use the CeriGlass for fine correction.


No glass polish will remove pits. Pits are shallow holes in the glass. You would have to level the glass to the bottom of the hole with polish - almost impossible. Certainly not realistic. You can wet sand glass, but its major work. It would probably just be better to replace it at that point.

However, you can remove defects in glass. A Griots 3" isn't going to cut it. Their glass pads are an unknown entity to me. To remove defects in glass with a DA, you need power and rotation, a lot of downward force is required. That is where the power comes in.

A GG6 with a 3" BP works perfectly with the CarPro Rayon Glass pads on a small area. I've tried a few things, & IME the BEST DA combo to remove defects in glass is a GG6, CarPro Rayon Pads, & CerriGlass.
 
I have a Cyclo polisher. I could try that next time. I'd be glad to try the CarPro rayon pads. What do you think?

Also, I'm a bit confused about what you mean by defects. Does that include the micropits I've got. They aren't big enough to feel.

If I'm going to buy a new DA, it would be the Flex HD model because the Griot Garage 6" doesn't look that much more powerful than the Porter Cable I have.

Thanks for your suggestions.
 
Following up on my previous post, I talked with Diamondite about these micropits and they advised that these can't be removed and that my only option is to replace the windshield.
 
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