Window Treatments

I would agree with you Houckster. The Flex would be a true upgrade. I think defects in glass are usually defined as scratches from wiper blades along with water spots. They are the most common anyway. The thing is, when you polish any surface you are removing material, that takes much more effort and more agressive methods when working with glass. It can be done it just requires more "grunt".

Nice Ranger by the way! I miss mine :( I've had 2 1990's and a 1993.
 
Thanks for the comments on the Ranger. I love it.

I investigated replacing the windshield when I found that I wouldn't be able to get the micropits removed. I called my insurance company for a recommendation and they offered to pick up the tab on a replacement windshield. Once I get that done, I'll take the Ranger home and start coating it with Opti-Glass which is supposed to make the windshield more resistant to damage. I will probably do three coats to insure total coverage and we'll see how it goes. I was very pleased to get a new windshield.
 
BobbyG said:
I've been using Aquapel as a glass protectant for years. Before applying, I thoroughly clean the glass then polish it with Detailer’s Pro Series High Performance Glass Restorer. I use this on an Orange foam pad on my Porter Cable dual action polisher.

Then

  • Clean
  • Dry
  • Apply
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I'm taking no chances with this windshield. I've got some orange pads and I'll use the CarPro Cerriglass. I'd buy the DP Glass Restorer but I think the Cerriglass will be as good. I'll follow that with an IPA.

When I applied the Opti-Glass sealant to my windshield it was so clean that the foam pad was very difficult to move over the glass and I wasn't pleased by how hard it was apply the sealant. I have purchased some Lake Country Coating Applicator pads and some small microfiber cloths that are used for things like glasses. I'll wrap the MF over the pad and apply the sealant that way. I got very good results with this when I applied Opti-Glass to my mother's car.

I separate the applications by 24 hour periods although I'm pretty sure the 1st application will be stable enough after about 12 hours given the current cold temperatures we're having.
 
CerriGlass is only needed if there is defects. Its overkill in other situations. I like PoorBoys Pro Polish.
 
CerriGlass is only needed if there is defects. Its overkill in other situations. I like PoorBoys Pro Polish.
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I'm trying to avoid buying something for which I have a very limited use. I've already done that with the Ceriglass. I'm told that Ceriglass is a finishing polish which should be sufficient to insure that the surface is clean. Just because there shouldn't be any defects to remove should not preclude its use but I also have some DP Coating Prep Polish if that would be better than the Cerriglass in your estimation.

Of course, the windshield should be brand new so all that might be necessary is to clean it with Stoners, clay it, and then IPA.

What do you think?
 
Houckster said:
Of course, the windshield should be brand new so all that might be necessary is to clean it with Stoners, clay it, and then IPA.

What do you think?
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That's what I would do unless the installers hacked it up somehow.
 
The Guz said:
This is what I used last time when I polished out the glass on my car, of course after claying.

Mother water spot remover with a 4" LC foam pad. Works very well.
Mothers California Gold Water Spot Remover for Glass, hard water spot remover, glass water spot remover, water spot remover for cars, glass polish

Meguiars D156. Easy to apply and do so as part of my maintenance.
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Yes, there are some really good products on the market but neither this product nor any other product I'm aware would help me with the micropits. If those are to be removed, a very powerful abrasive would be needed at the minimum along with a powerful rotary or orbital.

Since the insurance company will pick up the tab for a new windshield, that's the way to go.
 
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