Winter in Northeast Ohio

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JEP55

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I am looking for suggestions on what to use to protect my car's surface during the winter in Northeast Ohio(about 2 miles from the lake.. Thanks
 
Coatings are obviously the utmost in protection, but on my older DD with less than perfect paint that stays outside 24/7, I'm staying with lower cost sealants.
Last winter in Western PA, I did a cleaning pass with DG501 in late September, then topped it with DG105/601 and Collinite 476 in late October. I went well through spring with protection still intact, finally polishing with Meguiar's D151 and applying more DG105 in May, just 'cause I felt guilty.
I've tried a few combinations, all involving a Collinite product, over the past 4 winters, but the 105/601/476 combo outlasted any others, so that will be what I repeat this fall.

Bill
 
My vote would be for a coating:

Opti Gloss Coat
22 PLE
Kamikaze ISM Coat
Cquartz
Gtechniq

If you want something really easy to apply and lasts 3 to 6 months then go with Sonax Polymer Net Sheild.

:xyxthumbs:
 
With any of the Sealants, do you recommend removing the old wax? if so how?
 
I'm guessing you may be new do detailing (8 posts). So, excuse this advice if that is not correct. Coatings have a learning curve and don't work well if not properly applied (don't last long). The surface has to be prepped properly, which requires polishing with an orbital buffer, and then ensuring no polishing remnants are left on the paint. High spots can also be an issue if not quickly attended to (depending on product). If you use too much coating you will get high spots - not enough you will get poor beading and premature wear.

As easy as this sounds - it's not that easy. If anything goes even a little bit wrong - the coating/paint may not look good and may fail in a few months or weeks

Honestly, I'd recommend one of the new super sealants: Pinnacle Black Label Sealant or Sonus Ion. While I haven't used these yet. (I have Ion on my shelf), both companies are reputable and they claim a year durability.

You still need to prep the surface, but that could be done by hand (no defect removal). You want to use a product like Pinnacle BL Paint Prep, DP Paint Prep, or Duragloss Squeaky Clean. These are easily used by hand as well. Clay and IronX before those as well.

People are reporting these sealants are super easy to apply and remove - so high spots aren't an issue. You can also easily apply multiple layers - and they are not finicky about prep.

I tried Collinite 915 last winter... It didn't last more than 5 weeks or so with heavy snow / salting on my lower panels. I think a lot of people see their hood beading and think the product is still protecting all around. But, the hood doesn't come into contact with the salt sludge like your lower panels - that is where you want to check your beading. The hood is usually the LAST place to give up beading IME.
 
Swanicyouth

Thanks for your advice,

The cars I am thinking about using sealant their surfaces have been prepared --washed,clay bar-fine grid, polished using DA buffer & given two coats of wax-DP. The surfaces are good, stain and swirl free.
Would you use some type of cleaner to remove any wax before using the sealant? If so, how?
Thanks
 
Yeah. DP or Pinnacle Black Label Prep Polish. They will remove wax, remove no clear coat, are easy to use - and leave no residue behind that could affect the sealant's longevity. They also can be used by hand for tight areas.
 
I had really good results with Permanon Platinum last winter and I applied it last minute while it was raining outside. It still beaded great even after the winter.
 
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