Wolfgang DGPS prep work

timbo7 said:
I just ordered the WG dpgs and some other things and was sent the dp max wax. Haven't had a chance to try it yet but I plan on using the finishing glaze then the sealant. Would it be okay or beneficial to top it with the max wax?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using AG Online
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You would have to wait and see doing a test spot.

2 coats of WGDGPS 24 hours apart then let it cure for 24 hours before adding anything else.
 
jankerson said:
You would have to wait and see doing a test spot.

2 coats of WGDGPS 24 hours apart then let it cure for 24 hours before adding anything else.
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Okay thanks.

I have a garage but it seems like the next day there's dust on it. When I do the 2 coats what should I use before putting the second coat on? I have some pinnacle waterless wash but it says it contains wax so not sure if that'll hurt the bonding?

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timbo7 said:
Okay thanks.

I have a garage but it seems like the next day there's dust on it. When I do the 2 coats what should I use before putting the second coat on? I have some pinnacle waterless wash but it says it contains wax so not sure if that'll hurt the bonding?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using AG Online
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A quick detailer is fine to wipe it down...That or Megs M34.... :xyxthumbs:

Don't use a spray wax....
 
jankerson said:
Why would you wash the car after doing a complete error correction and risk putting scratches into the paint you just corrected?

You really want to touch the paint as little as possible, especially after doing any type of error correction.
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After the 205 step u could just do a nice foam cannon bath with some CGs citrus wash RED and it will foam strong and clean the paint with just a rinse. Then u can Blaster or Blow dry your car so u never touched it. Simple enough to me. This way u don't have to touch it as u do using IPA.
 
FUNX725 said:
Are you saying that a powerwash rinse removes all trace residues of surfactants?

Bob
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Well considering the fact that I only add 1/2 oz of DG901 or CG wash clear to my foam gun reservoir, and then powerwash, hose flood, and then dry without any residue left on the paint....Yea, I'm pretty sure all surfactants are gone! If I'm doing a single step correction and there isn't any traces of compound or polish stuck in any nooks or crannies, I'll go ahead and do a Menz TI wipe down instead. :-)
 
UglyBetty said:
Thank you for the quick responses guys! I'll use M205 or menz 4500 followed by an IPA wipe down. I did 105/205 combo on the truck a few months ago, followed by 845. Truck doesn't need much, if any correction, just going to polish to remove the 845.

I've used DGPS on a white vehicle, but never on a dark vehicle(dark blue). Kinda curious how it will look.
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I did this 2013 Honda Ridgeline yesterday with Blackfire Total Polish & Seal followed with WG DGPS 3.0. The results were amazing. It had light swirling and the TPS removed a good amount of it with my Rupes 15 and LC Orange pad. I had detailed it for my friend when he got it new last May with CG Blacklight and Pete's 53. The BF/WG combo is outstanding imho.



 
FUNX725 said:
I've never ever used any Brand's "paintwork polish enhancer" prior to a WGDGPS application.
Nor any IPA wipe-downs for that matter.

In fact:
I've applied WGDGPS directly after using polishes such as M205...even 3M IHG and M07!!

I've found that the following Mike Phillips article addresses this subject very effectively:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ble-wax-paint-sealant-bonding.html#post394355

There is very comprehensive information, therein, including detailing-morsels such as:
-Follow the manufactures' recommendations
-Statements from Chemists regarding synergy, bonding, etc.
-And one of my favorite Non-Chemist quotes about "bonding":

TO WIT:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosca
"I've never walked out into a garage only to find out that overnight
the wax or paint sealant I applied slipped off the car's paint and piled-up
on the floor surrounding the car because it didn't bond or stick to the paint".


:)

Bob
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:iagree:
 
Just02896 said:
Well considering the fact that I only add 1/2 oz of DG901 or CG wash clear to my foam gun reservoir,
and then powerwash, hose flood, and then dry without any residue left on the paint....
Yea, I'm pretty sure all surfactants are gone!
Click to expand...
If they're not...So what?

-What's a little bit of commingling amongst differing-products' chemicals going to hurt.

-"A Little Bit Of Soap" ~ THE JARMELS

"But a little bit of soap: Will never,
never, never ever erase

The pain in my heart and my eyes
As I go through the lonely years

A little bit of soap
Will never wash away my tears".

singer-1.gif


Bob
 
stilltipping3 said:
After the 205 step u could just do a nice foam cannon bath with some CGs citrus wash RED and it will foam strong and clean the paint with just a rinse. Then u can Blaster or Blow dry your car so u never touched it. Simple enough to me. This way u don't have to touch it as u do using IPA.
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The question is why would you want to?

When it's not needed in the 1st place....

If the car is slightly dusty then that's what products like M34 and Last Touch are for, more so M34.....

But even after using a compound the polishing step will remove the dust from the compounding step....

Ready for LSP or Glaze....

Why would you want to go back over a car again before the LSP after the correcting steps..... On paint that was just CORRECTED and CLEAN already...

That's why some of us are banging our heads against the wall.....
 
custmsprty said:
I did this 2013 Honda Ridgeline yesterday with Blackfire Total Polish & Seal followed with WG DGPS 3.0. The results were amazing. It had light swirling and the TPS removed a good amount of it with my Rupes 15 and LC Orange pad. I had detailed it for my friend when he got it new last May with CG Blacklight and Pete's 53. The BF/WG combo is outstanding imho.



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Dang, that looks awesome....
 
Thanks UG, and it's a simple two step process. I take my time with the Blackfire TPS working it like a polish section at a time and then coat the whole vehicle with the WG 3.0 and let it cure for 45 minutes and wipe off. With gloss and shine like this I really see no reason to apply any additional product over the WG DGPS, it really is an outstanding product.
 
Finished polishing with M205......WGDGPS will wait until the AM.

2 coats or 1? I did 2 on my white vehicle, after 18 hours of cure in hot weather..........is it necessary, and does it add to the protection, or just catch any spots you might have missed?
 
UglyBetty said:
Finished polishing with M205......WGDGPS will wait until the AM.

2 coats or 1? I did 2 on my white vehicle, after 18 hours of cure in hot weather..........is it necessary, and does it add to the protection, or just catch any spots you might have missed?
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A second coat will add protection as well as catch any spots you may have missed on the first run.

Or you can just apply one coat make sure you have 100% coverage. I guess it might depend on how tired your buffing arm is after coat #1! Lol!
 
UglyBetty said:
Finished polishing with M205......WGDGPS will wait until the AM.

2 coats or 1? I did 2 on my white vehicle, after 18 hours of cure in hot weather..........is it necessary, and does it add to the protection, or just catch any spots you might have missed?
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Some say it does but it's never been scientifically proven :laughing:
You will how ever use twice as much product twice as fast hehehehe. Personally I think it's a waste of time and product. You could put another coat on in 45-60 days to extend the prior coat, that's what I do on my wife's daily driver. In the meantime I use a quality QD like Blackfire Wet Diamond, Sonus etc. I buy mine on sale or bogo.
 
Final product, polish with M205, one coat of WGDGPS.

Too bad it's cloudy today, pics don't do it justice, can't wait to see it in the sun! It's been about six months since I used DGPS, man I forgot how easy it is to remove after 45 minutes!

Bob(& others),
You were right, the DGPS didn't fall off onto the floor!

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