Wolfgang Uber Ceramic Spray Coating - First Impressions Video

10 day update video is live:


Paint was prepped with Griot's Correcting Cream, followed up with Klean Strip Prep-All prior to applying the Uber Ceramic Spray Coating. Around 450 miles on the car since applying. It's holding up well on the front bumper, but I do think CanCoat would edge it out in staying power even at this early of a time period. I'll continue to provide some updates when more time passes.

I grabbed some shots of EXOv4(left) and Gliss V2(right) on the front hood going on 11 months. And CQUK 3.0(front) and CQuartz TiO2(rear) on the drivers side doors going on 23 months. Those four products recently had Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Detailer applied 10 days ago on the last wash. I'm really enjoying HCD, you can see that performance difference that HCD has depending on how healthy the base coat is, it's working extremely well with the CQuartz coatings given how old they are.
 
Nice video.

Thanks for the shout out to AGO! :cheers:


Also - nice comments about the SONAX Polymer Net Shield. While it's not a true ceramic coating, for easy of use and simple prep work - it's a great product.

Don't mean to take your review in a different direction but as you know, I always type for the future, so far anyone reading this into the future check this article out.


SONAX Polymer Net Shield - Closest thing to a coating without being a coating


And for what it's worth, and I'm sure you know this, the best way to test a product is on a horizontal surface you can look down on, for example the hood or trunk lid.


Keep up the good work, I like you videos.


:dblthumb2:
 
Is this considered super hydrophobic? Mike, do you have any super hydrophobic coatings? I don't need shine: I need max hydrophobic for the particular application. BTW: I'm old fashioned and prefer the Wolfgangs ceramic coating. The results are unreal...Can I use the spray ceramic as a maintenance stage over the traditional Wolfgangs ceramic?

Thanks
 

Wanted to share a two month update video for you guys to show you how the Uber Ceramic Spray Coating is holding up on the front bumper of the Honda. After three weeks I decided to apply a second application to just the right half of the front bumper (driver's side), the left half remains untouched except for the CarPro Reset washes.

Both sides are holding up well, we've been getting absolutely hammered with rain the last few weeks here in Florida. Some sections on the single coat section are slightly weaker, but overall good hydrophobics remaining. I would definitely recommend two coats though for this spray coating, it doesn't look like the two coat section is slowing down at the same rate as the single coat application did. Seems to be maintaining a bit better performance. Again, the spray coating is so easy to work with that I can see myself using this on a very regular basis.

I'll try and pull it out every once in a while to use on the test panel to check for shelf life. But if my E28 still looked like this and I was using Uber Ceramic Spray Coating as my main protectant, I'd probably reapply it once a month and be very happy:

5023915979_cf4d293302_c.jpg


Hleshot said:
Is this considered super hydrophobic? Mike, do you have any super hydrophobic coatings? I don't need shine: I need max hydrophobic for the particular application. BTW: I'm old fashioned and prefer the Wolfgangs ceramic coating. The results are unreal...Can I use the spray ceramic as a maintenance stage over the traditional Wolfgangs ceramic?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Superhydrophobic is a surface where the water beads can make a contact angle of 150° or higher, nothing in the detailing world is capable of that level of hydrophobic performance on the paint. When this is fresh it's very good, I'd say around the 110° contact angle level. I haven't used the regular Wolfgang coating, but I wouldn't have any problems applying this on top of it. Should bond just fine.
 
^^ Thanks Loach!
During my testing, I wasn’t wow’d by initial behavior, but I have to admit that it held up well through a lot of abuse.

I’m realizing at this point that any SiO2 sprays (waxes too) seem to perform better with minimum two coats, and do perform top notch when applied regularly (a few weeks for some, a few months for others).

It was Coatings=crack who mentioned how SiO2 in particular seem to build upon each other, probably by mixing in some form, but the accumulative effect of SiO2 on SiO2 can really bring out the beat in these things... not that it’s required. But they are so easy to apply that one might as well if they have an extra 15 minutes.
 
PeteT19640 said:
How do guys compare it too Cancoat & Carpro Lite now?
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My opinion (which I think I gave previously in this thread) is that Cancoat is in it’s own true Coating Lite category. It’s not something you want to reapply every month or two. Nor need to. The traits are great up front and stays great for a long time. It’s also something that is a bit harder to apply and you are going to end up with legitimate high spots where you miss.

WG CSC, I consider a SiO2 maintenance spray that can be used as standalone. Super easy to apply. Probably has the best traits when layered or applied regularly. Not the best water characteristics for me. But so easy to apply and maintain and the bottle has so many applications... if you don’t mind doing 10 minute applications here and there, the bottle should go on and on. This type of usage is most suited for WG CSC probably. And much different than the one and done super-beading of Cancoat that you will only get 5 applications out of a $54 bottle.
 
acuRAS82 said:
^^ Thanks Loach!
During my testing, I wasn’t wow’d by initial behavior, but I have to admit that it held up well through a lot of abuse.

I’m realizing at this point that any SiO2 sprays (waxes too) seem to perform better with minimum two coats, and do perform top notch when applied regularly (a few weeks for some, a few months for others).

It was Coatings=crack who mentioned how SiO2 in particular seem to build upon each other, probably by mixing in some form, but the accumulative effect of SiO2 on SiO2 can really bring out the beat in these things... not that it’s required. But they are so easy to apply that one might as well if they have an extra 15 minutes.
Click to expand...

Layering is definitely a rabbit hole of a concept. I was enjoying reading through some of Dr. Ghodoussi's comments on polymers and acrylics on the Optimum Forums:

Doctor G said:
The products you mentioned contain polyethylene-acrylic acid which is still a polymer yet very different from what is used in the Optimum line. Polyethylene is the base in these products which is also used in candle making. The acrylic acid portion will provide substantivity which in turn results in durability versus just using polyehtylene based products.

The main difference with the polymers we use vs polyethylene-acrylics is that there is no cross-linking with polyethylene-acrylics. However, with the polymers we use, they will cross-link and cure within 24 hours to create a 3-dimensional matrix. This is valid for the Optimum Car Wax, Poli-Seal, and Opti-Seal. The latter cures much faster due to new technologies that we developed over the past two years.

Another benefit is cross-linking between layers so that if you add a layer of Opti-Seal or Optimum Car Wax on top of Opti-Seal, Poli-Seal, or Optimum Car Wax it wil bond to the previous layer(s). This can not be done with polyethylene-acrylics since there is no cross-linking capability in this technology.

The one advantage polyehtylene-acrylics offer is that since they are acidic by natue, they hold up better to acid rain, however, at the same time since they are acidic, they can cause minor etching of the paint. All and all, for the above reasons, our entire line is free of polyehtylene-acrylics and therefore all of the products in the Optimum line are compatible with each other.

Adding a second layer of acrylic products in general, as you mentioned, will dissolve the previous layer but it will leave more protection behind than a single layer would. There is, however, a law of diminishing returns since each additional layer adds less than the original layer. So while the second layer may add an additional 20-30% more actives, a third layer may only add 3-5%. With cross-linking polymers, this is not the case since the polymer structure changes and does not readily dissolve by the solution. A good analogy would be of single component isocyanate coating that once it cross-links and forms polyurea, it will be very hard to remove. I hope this answers your question. Thanks again.

David,
Click to expand...
(Acrylics vs. Polymer - Ask the Optimum Experts - Optimum Forum)

My tests with the glossmeter shows some significance with layering, the measurable gloss tends to read lower and lower the more applications of wax that are put down on the paint even after a heavy wipedown in between the coats with a clean microfiber. Doesn't necessarily mean we're actually reducing visual gloss, but it's clear to me that layering something like Zymol trends down on the numbers. Some instances of Collinite 845 I've definitely seen much more consistent hydrophobic performance with two coats as opposed to a single coat. Side glass seems to easily build up a very hydrophobic surface using just regular basic spray waxes and spray detailers over a few washes.

So beyond just guaranteeing coverage, I think there are products out there that can consistently yield better performance with regular toppings on paint, just need to find them and prove it and address any potential negatives. Negatives could be a higher potential for the wax to want to outgas/haze/ghost over in high heat/humidity like Zymol and even Collinite with multiple coats. Another issue is if there is a benefit, exactly when is the best time to apply the second coat after applying the first coat?

PeteT19640 said:
How do guys compare it too Cancoat & Carpro Lite now?
Click to expand...

acuRAS82 said:
My opinion (which I think I gave previously in this thread) is that Cancoat is in it’s own true Coating Lite category. It’s not something you want to reapply every month or two. Nor need to. The traits are great up front and stays great for a long time. It’s also something that is a bit harder to apply and you are going to end up with legitimate high spots where you miss.

WG CSC, I consider a SiO2 maintenance spray that can be used as standalone. Super easy to apply. Probably has the best traits when layered or applied regularly. Not the best water characteristics for me. But so easy to apply and maintain and the bottle has so many applications... if you don’t mind doing 10 minute applications here and there, the bottle should go on and on. This type of usage is most suited for WG CSC probably. And much different than the one and done super-beading of Cancoat that you will only get 5 applications out of a $54 bottle.
Click to expand...

acuRAS82 is spot on, CanCoat feels more significant, you'll get better hydrophobic durability at the cost of a more involved application and wipeoff. I'd rather have CanCoat as the base protectant for performance, and then be crazy enough to run regular maintenance with the Uber Ceramic Spray Coating. But in reality, CanCoat doesn't need anything heavy in order to maintain itself. Some guys aren't ever going to want to work with something quite as heavy as CanCoat, so Uber Spray Coating fits the bill in being something easy enough to use as your main protectant, and easy enough to use as its own topper after washes.

Uber Spray Coating does seem like it competes much closer to Adam's Ceramic Spray Coating, the first formula of which actually did last upwards of a year on the Honda with one coat. But when I pulled them out side by side the Wolfgang applies and removes better than the Adam's, which could be a result of the expiring shelf life of the Adam's coming into play.

CarPro Lite feels like a true coating to me, I'm finding myself wiping just about as much with it in my climate to get a clean wipeoff compared regular CQUK or CQuartz coatings. CanCoat seems a bit easier to work with compared to Lite but it's been a while since I pulled it out and its shelf life is probably toast at this point.

By the way acuRAS82, I did get the nozzle dribble after pulling Uber Spray Coating out the other day on the test panel! Not anything crazy but I did notice it while spraying.
 
@Loach, awesome post. The details about the layering for some polymers versus different for others makes so much sense and I think we’ve all seen some good results layering certain things (better traits), even when layering different products. And I’m sure we’ve all seen no improvement with layering different products, or even diminished behavior such as your Collinite example. The SiO2 “toppers” seem to layer very well for me, almost always improving water behavior on a second coat, and when maintaining every month or so. As an example, possibly the best beading I’ve ever seen regularly was PA Hogh Gloss on top of Cosmic Spritz. It was noticeably better than Cosmic Spritz alone. And much better than High Gloss alone. There seems to be a build up that is beneficial. Thanks for posting that, I’m a test dummy who always mixes and matches to find things that work together.

And spot on, yourself, regarding the Cancoat vs WG CSC comparison. I just applied some Cancoat a few hours ago, and while I love Cancoat and how substantial it is, I wouldn’t want to apply it regularly even though it’s not difficult to do. WG CSC is something that is legitimately fun to apply. And even though it had good durability for me, I think it will be at it’s best when refreshed regularly.
 
WG CSC doesn't seem to last as long as waxes only a month or two? Sealants have a better durability.
Thought this was the real deal.
 
I have considered Cancoat for a different vehicle. The thing that turns me off is that some claim a respirator is needed when applying it.

The Wolfgang is easy enough to apply. With maintenance washes or maintenance spray toppers it should last quite a while. Continue to update this thread.
 
I'm close to 4 months of total durability on the front bumper and washed it on Friday, it's holding up well across the board on both the 1 coat and 2 coat sections. I might do a 4 month video update later this week. You want to be mindful of the vapors of this spray coating as well.
 
DUBL0WS6 said:
I have considered Cancoat for a different vehicle. The thing that turns me off is that some claim a respirator is needed when applying it.

The Wolfgang is easy enough to apply. With maintenance washes or maintenance spray toppers it should last quite a while. Continue to update this thread.
Click to expand...

Most true coatings a respirator is recommended. Voc’s and stuff. I didnt were one and colors taste good.... so......


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
To be honest if a respirator isn't recommended for a coating, I get suspicious. There has to be a certain concentration for the coating to be durable and for that, you need a certain kind of solvent or at least, a good smoothing agent for the SiO2/whatever to remain soluble in water.
 

5 month update video is live. Overall, the Uber Ceramic Spray Coating has really taken well to the front bumper of the test car. Seems to not be showing signs of noticeably slowing down during the last few months on the paint. Again, 1 coat on the left half facing the car, two coats on the right half, 2nd coat applied three weeks after the first coat. Very strong performance remaining on both sides, but more consistent performance with the 2 coats towards the middle of the front bumper. No additional maintenance toppers have been used on these sections aside from the 2nd coat on the right half. Washed with CarPro Reset.

The wheels have also held up really well. These are in between 3-4 months of durability at 2 coats of the Uber Ceramic Spray Coating applied, showing great results even before a soap wash (wash wasn't done on camera for this update). I think the decision to continue to just use the CarPro Reset as the soap for the wheels instead of using dedicated wheel cleaners has allowed it to hold up at a high level, I just haven't noticed the need to go any stronger than Reset on them.

Good stuff, I do need to pull this back out and run more tests to confirm shelf life viability. The last time I used it on the test panel I noticed it was not as easy to work with compared to its fresh bottle performance, especially in direct sunlight, that was a bit over a month ago. So I don't think this type of spray bottle provides the best seal to keep it fresh, in which case I would want to be using this on a very regular basis to get the best shelf life performance out of it to make sure it doesn't go to waste. More testing needed but eventually I'll get on to it and try and update you guys.
 
great review, and your tube channel i watch great job :buffing::dblthumb2:
 
Because I read here that application of WGCSC every few months will make it behave better is there a necessity to throw away the towels after use?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
gorillapr said:
Because I read here that application of WGCSC every few months will make it behave better is there a necessity to throw away the towels after use?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Autogeekonline mobile app
Click to expand...
I don’t think so, just get them into some wash solution right after and then rinse and wring them out if you want to be safe.
 
Thank you Loach. I appreciate the regular updates for this product.
 
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