WolfGang Uber Cermamic Coating Review + Update

Thanks for the detailed response. Based on your comments, I will stay with the DGPS. Last year at this time I gav my cares two coats after claying and polishing. When winter was over, I occassional hit it with Fusion wax. It still looks great, but I will soon repeat last falls regimen.

Thanks again!
 
Iron X and Carpro Reset done on Sunday.
Thanks for the recommendation guys, the truck looks great...and feels smoother
 
Nice video Gav, I am doing the same treatment to my Wolfgang coated car this weekend.
 
I start my washing procedure in the winter months when it's salt on the road with a solvent based degreaser. And when that has worked in I spray over an alkaline product with ratio of stronger than normal right over the degreaser. Why do I do this is for desolve tar and roadgrime and salt as much as possible. Then I rinse it of and go with an 2 buckets wash with carpro reset. I do not have a ceramic coating and at the moment my protection is gyeon wet coat. Before I had Ultima paint guard plus and I always top it of with a qd that has a strong protection for a qd. This is the go to procedure for dd in Sweden for us detailing hooked people. The degreaser we just put on from bottom of the car up to a bit under the windows. Because you don't want to get it in inside of the doors or in the chanels under the windscreen. That can eat away of the rust protection inside the car and don't spray it in the wheel wells too. In the rest of the year the degreaser is used when needed if the paint is being rough to the touch and if you see tar spots on the paint. The alkaline product is used in the rest of the years as a prewash with a milder delution to get the bugs and roadgrime of. Maybe you have a prewash that is alkaline based in the US? I don't see much of that in stores there. I use most my foamcannon to prewash with it. This is an aggressive way to wash and most waxes won't hold up to it. But sealants and coatings are strong and can put up to this. Of course it will tear on them but you use a product to fill the damage after with a product in the family of your coating or sealant. And you often have a topping on that take the hit. My believe is that you save you self from the need to clay. And as you do go with ironx sometime when needed.
One product a forum member told me contains a bit of both is this.

https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-car-wash-plus.html

Test this 2-3 washes to clean the sides of the car and see if you can revive the coating. Maybe do a test spot were it's really bad and see what happens. I can look for products that is used as a prewash. Carpro tarx works great to remove tar and some other dirt but it's a bit pricey and there is maybe more economic products that desolves tar. When I think of it a citrus based prewash would work as the alkaline product but a bit easier on the protection. There is cause of useing this two different based chemicals and that is it removes different kind of dirt and grime. I just wanted to share how I and many others do in Sweden. We don't have problems with water restraining and to use chemicals on ours property. And this don't work to do in the sun as it can not dry. But for you who lives in parts of the country it's real winter with snow and then they put salt on the roads can use this method. And if you have access to shade areas or places you can work inside or covered. It's also important to have access to pressure washer or a strong water pressure from the hose to rinse well.
 
Nice video Gav, I am doing the same treatment to my Wolfgang coated car this weekend.

you wont be disappointed, let us know how it goes !

I start my washing procedure in the winter months when it's salt on the road with a solvent based degreaser. And when that has worked in I spray over an alkaline product with ratio of stronger than normal right over the degreaser. Why do I do this is for desolve tar and roadgrime and salt as much as possible. Then I rinse it of and go with an 2 buckets wash with carpro reset. I do not have a ceramic coating and at the moment my protection is gyeon wet coat. Before I had Ultima paint guard plus and I always top it of with a qd that has a strong protection for a qd. This is the go to procedure for dd in Sweden for us detailing hooked people. The degreaser we just put on from bottom of the car up to a bit under the windows. Because you don't want to get it in inside of the doors or in the chanels under the windscreen. That can eat away of the rust protection inside the car and don't spray it in the wheel wells too. In the rest of the year the degreaser is used when needed if the paint is being rough to the touch and if you see tar spots on the paint. The alkaline product is used in the rest of the years as a prewash with a milder delution to get the bugs and roadgrime of. Maybe you have a prewash that is alkaline based in the US? I don't see much of that in stores there. I use most my foamcannon to prewash with it. This is an aggressive way to wash and most waxes won't hold up to it. But sealants and coatings are strong and can put up to this. Of course it will tear on them but you use a product to fill the damage after with a product in the family of your coating or sealant. And you often have a topping on that take the hit. My believe is that you save you self from the need to clay. And as you do go with ironx sometime when needed.
One product a forum member told me contains a bit of both is this.

https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-car-wash-plus.html

Test this 2-3 washes to clean the sides of the car and see if you can revive the coating. Maybe do a test spot were it's really bad and see what happens. I can look for products that is used as a prewash. Carpro tarx works great to remove tar and some other dirt but it's a bit pricey and there is maybe more economic products that desolves tar. When I think of it a citrus based prewash would work as the alkaline product but a bit easier on the protection. There is cause of useing this two different based chemicals and that is it removes different kind of dirt and grime. I just wanted to share how I and many others do in Sweden. We don't have problems with water restraining and to use chemicals on ours property. And this don't work to do in the sun as it can not dry. But for you who lives in parts of the country it's real winter with snow and then they put salt on the roads can use this method. And if you have access to shade areas or places you can work inside or covered. It's also important to have access to pressure washer or a strong water pressure from the hose to rinse well.

Good info here, thanks for sharing... I will do some research.
 
Thanks for the update Gav, and the great video! Mine is holding up well, been on since July 2016. Its coming off Spring 2018 and being replaced with something else. I like the Wolfgang a lot, but its time to play with some new things.
 
Seems to hold up great! Nice video with super slowmotion!
 
Thanks for the update Gav, and the great video! Mine is holding up well, been on since July 2016. Its coming off Spring 2018 and being replaced with something else. I like the Wolfgang a lot, but its time to play with some new things.

Thanks ! I have CQuartz hanging out currently. My sister bought a kit as well, but with the temps being in the teens to 30s this week, I think her car may need to wait until spring.
I will inspect for swirls / etc in the spring time and make a decision from there. I'm hoping to find a house with a bigger garage so that the truck can be parked inside.

Seems to hold up great! Nice video with super slowmotion!

thanks ! I think the GoPro studio setting was 39% of normal speed. I enjoy editing videos with a little something extra
Thanks for watching

have you used any toppers? I didn't see any mentions looking through the post history

I have not used any toppers. The only coating "booster" used would be the CarPRo Rest. I've used it 3-4 times in the last 6 weeks or so.
The only other product I use is the WG Uber rinseless wash as a QD while drying. This video was taken WITHOUT the use of the RW.
The truck was rinsed, blow dried with a sidekick blaster and any remaining water was soaked up with a MF WW towel.
 
Thanks ! I have CQuartz hanging out currently. My sister bought a kit as well, but with the temps being in the teens to 30s this week, I think her car may need to wait until spring.
I will inspect for swirls / etc in the spring time and make a decision from there. I'm hoping to find a house with a bigger garage so that the truck can be parked inside.



thanks ! I think the GoPro studio setting was 39% of normal speed. I enjoy editing videos with a little something extra
Thanks for watching



I have not used any toppers. The only coating "booster" used would be the CarPRo Rest. I've used it 3-4 times in the last 6 weeks or so.
The only other product I use is the WG Uber rinseless wash as a QD while drying. This video was taken WITHOUT the use of the RW.
The truck was rinsed, blow dried with a sidekick blaster and any remaining water was soaked up with a MF WW towel.
How do you like that sidekick? I've been looking at them

Sent from my XT1609 using Tapatalk
 
it works well. I used to use an electric leaf blower, so this is unit is smaller and easier to maneuver.
Since I wash my truck outside and it's full size, I sometimes wonder if air born dust / debris have a chance to hit the surface while I am on the other side of the truck.
As long as its cooler and not in direct sunlight, the water that is on the surface is easily blown off.

I purchased Mine from Adam's because it was on sale for 79.99 with an additional 10% off and free shipping. Couldn't beat the deal.
 
winter sucks, but I coated vehicle helps:
before:
onSgXlw.jpg

after just a thorough rinse @ the local coin operated wash
cGTqKa9.jpg


by the time I got home, WG beads were frozen on the hood:
7JS43f5.jpg
 
winter sucks, but I coated vehicle helps:
before:
onSgXlw.jpg

after just a thorough rinse @ the local coin operated wash
cGTqKa9.jpg


by the time I got home, WG beads were frozen on the hood:
7JS43f5.jpg

Gav, I am loving the truck and the results of the coating. The New England winter is wreaking havoc on vehicles around here and I have treated my truck with Wolfgang DGPS and after 3 months it is still holding up well. I know that you used the sealant in the past and upgraded to the ceramic. Is the ceramic upgrade really that much better than the sealant?
 
Thanks Uncle Davy for the kind words.
While the DGPS has been one of my go to products, I used it on "customer" cars and my Camaro ( which is garaged and sees sunny days only ).
For my previous daily drivers I was using Collinite 845 and then Clearkote's Carnauba Moose Wax.

From what I have seen, I would say the coating is a step above the sealant. The truck is parked outside, sees 90* in the summer, heavy rains and obviously snow and salt in the winter.
I was happy to see that an Iron X treatment and Car Pro reset helped to prolong the hydrophobic properties of the coating.

As with the DGPS, the actual depth / gloss and overall "look" of the paint is still top notch.
If you were thinking about upgrading to a coating, there are other less expensive options that I personally would have no problems considering.

I have the old McKee's formula on my dad's Durango currently, seems to be doing well.
My sister has CQuartz UK waiting to go on her '17 Pilot ( I will be applying this in the spring ).
 
Agree with everything Gav said comparing Wolfgang sealant to coating. Made the switch a year ago, sealant lasted 6 months on a garage queen, the coating looks better and is still going strong.

Do have to add, for an amateur applying a coating is a lot more work than applying a sealant. WDGP was a joy to apply, not to mention the instant slickness.
 
cyclops is right, the slickness that the DGPS leave behind is fantastic.
I tend to stick with certain products that create great results ( that and I don't want to spend money on products that I won't completely use ).

Applying a coating is definitely more time consuming.
I was able to apply the DGPS to a 69 Roadrunner via a PC and 4" red finishing pad in like 10-15 minutes.
It took me about 45-60 minutes to apply the UCC to my moms IS 250
 
Sorry I'm cynIcal.. In reality, you have a fairly new vehicle that is fairly well maintained. The paint will sheet water off it (as in yr videos), regardless if it was naked or had some failing coating on it. Most chemicals you wash a car will have something in them to help water sheet off paint as well.

Also, if I'm looking at longevity of something - I'm not looking at the hood or the top part of the front fenders. I'm looking at the bottom of the lower panels - the most hammered part of the car. I would have liked to see how it performed there after an IPA wipe down after washing. Somehow - I already know it's long gone.

I dunno. I appreciate the work you did here. But, it seemed to me like this stuff pretty much checked out around 3/4 of a year - and yr trying to convince yrself it's still there. I've been down this rabbit hole, and it's hard to determine what's what.

For me - I'll just use something that is significantly less costly that I can apply maybe 3 times a year that will shed water like a champ without IronX, Reset, a coating topper, a silica based QD, or whatever is required to "maintain" a coating.
 
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