Going to do some swirl and paint correction this weekend for the first time using a griots RA and Wolfgangs Swirl remover. I am working on my 2009 Black Cadillac CTS-V. Will I be able to finish the job with an 8 oz bottle of the Wolfgangs or will I need more?
Wolfgangs 8oz Swirl Remover
- Thread starter chosenone
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swanicyouth
New member
- Mar 3, 2011
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Yes that's plenty. If you use more than half the bottle your using too much.
mikesal57
New member
- Apr 29, 2013
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in my opinion.....
if this is your first correction to the 2009, this WG treatment might be too weak...
I did my 09 rav4 and wasn't happy..
I got happy after I used Meg UC
mike
I learned a lot from the Junkman's videos...give it a go
you only need a few drops of product with the DA
if this is your first correction to the 2009, this WG treatment might be too weak...
I did my 09 rav4 and wasn't happy..
I got happy after I used Meg UC
mike
I learned a lot from the Junkman's videos...give it a go
you only need a few drops of product with the DA
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks for the help and advice.
This is what I am facing. Not to bad, but very much noticable.
View attachment 19346
anybody have any advice on working on the small angled lines of the car.
This is what I am facing. Not to bad, but very much noticable.
View attachment 19346
anybody have any advice on working on the small angled lines of the car.
Harry Da Hamster
New member
- May 13, 2013
- 863
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Your swirls are really not that bad. I would suspect Wolfgang Swirl Remover is way too aggressive. If you care about your clear coat, i would suggest the least evasive approach first. Use Wolfgang Finishing Glaze first with a polishing pad. If you really need to use WG Swirl Remover, finish it with the two i suggested to remove any haze.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
- Aug 31, 2010
- 17,040
- 1,328
TSR is what, SF4000? I disagree that's too aggressive for hard GM clear.
- Thread starter
- #10
I did a test spot, mind you this was the first time I have turned the machine on "griots" so I obvisouly wasnt putting enough pressure and had the speed at like 3. A little scary first time out of the box. I read all of Mikes tips and tricks on usage advice and know what and how I am supposed to use it, but gotta get comfortable first that im not going to bore a hole through the hood of the car. So with my poor technique first time using it, the section I made a pass on looked better than the section I didnt so I am thinking with taking my time and using the right techniques I should be good to go. So whats the consensus, is the Swirl Remover ok for the GM Clear?
Harry Da Hamster
New member
- May 13, 2013
- 863
- 0
wrong
I finally got my Silverado straightened out. An orange pad and WGTSR and it looks better than new. As Mark stated, the WGTSR cut is determined by the pad the user selects.
As you get the pad primed, you only need three pea sized dots on your pad to continue polishing.
It's good you have been reading, the information presented on this site has helped me so much with my issues. When I stare at my truck it's unbelievable how nice it looks and the sense of accomplishment is priceless.
Next is figuring out how to post pics!
As you get the pad primed, you only need three pea sized dots on your pad to continue polishing.
It's good you have been reading, the information presented on this site has helped me so much with my issues. When I stare at my truck it's unbelievable how nice it looks and the sense of accomplishment is priceless.
Next is figuring out how to post pics!
- Thread starter
- #14
I have some CCS Orange Light cutting pads and also some White pads. I plan on hand applying my other products after I correct the paint. I have the forum favorite kit that includes the Klasse AIO and the Klasse High Gloss as well as the Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax. Its probably overkill after the paint correction but I have already planned this detail job for myself to be a 3 day event lol.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
- Aug 31, 2010
- 17,040
- 1,328
Thanks for being helpful. From another thread:
So, Wolfgang TSR is SIP, which is a medium polish, which I still contend is not too aggressive for the swirls in that rock-hard GM clear, particularly since half the members here would start with M105 on those swirls.
- Thread starter
- #16
Here is my first detail experience. I started Thursday night and worked until worked about 4 hours on the car. Started first by 2 bucket system wash using Pinnacle Shampoo. Got it all washed and dried using Cobra Guzzlers. I then clayed the car using Meguiars Kit and Meguiars Ultimate Quick Detail Spray. The cars paint was to bad, I didnt see a lot of contaminents on clay after using, but since this was my first time detailing I wanted to follow all the correct steps. I then decided to remove all the wheels and detail the inner fenders and all the rotors and calipers. I used some brake cleaner solution I had laying around and good ol fashioned soap and water to get all the road grime and brake dust off. I then used my Griots RO and some Wolfgang Swirl remover to attack the rims. Then applied some wheel wax to finish them off. I cleaned the innner fenders out with a large scrub brush and treated with some black plastic renewal solution. Treated tires with Sanctiond High Gloss Tire Dressing, wiped down to get rid of oily wet finish after dressing had sat for 30 minutes.
Here is a shot of wheels removed showin it exposed rotors and calipers
View attachment 19455
View attachment 19484
Detailed wheels waiting
View attachment 19485
After with wheel back on
View attachment 19456
Got back to work on Friday night. This was the first time I was using the Griots RO on paint. I was a little nervous to say the least even after watching all the vidoes and reading the tutorials and tips. I did a small test spot on hood using Wolfgangs Total Swirl Remover. My lighting in the garage isnt even close to good so was basically moving around a spot light all night. From what I could tell on the hood, most of the swirls where removed. I then using the Klasse All in One on the test spot by hand. I liked the results so I proceeded on.
Before on hood
View attachment 19460
After on hood
View attachment 19461
So as I started down the side of my car where my swirls are noticable as well as daily driver road damage I noticed the TSR not really cutting it as good as the hood. It was removing the swirls but not really removing the actual distinct scratches. Not fingernail clicking scratches just surface scratches. They where not coming out. Also along the lower quarters and bottom of the car there are all these little white dots that are from driving in the winter. You cannot feel these marks either but the TSW didnt take those out either. I was using an Orange LC pad and had the Griots RO on speed 6. I made sure my technique was good and it just wasnt removing it. I didnt have any other harsher product to try so I was stuck completing the car and moving on at this point. I was happy with the swirl removal but not getting the results a professional shop would be getting. My first rookie mistake was I had finished the front fender and the passenger door and somehow threw product back down the side of the finished section. When I went to wipe this off I basically put swirls right back into the paint. So had to start over. Less product and a clean pad for me the rest of the way around as to not throw product or create any powder on finished areas. Finally finished buffing the car and was probably 80% happy with the results. Time to hit the hay and get some rest for the next day of hand polishing and sealing.
Before TSR applicaton with Griots RO and LC orange pad
View attachment 19462
After
View attachment 19464
Saturday morning I hand applied Klasse All in One to the car and wiped off with the Superplush and Gold plush microfiber towels. I had read all the horror stories about how hard this product is to use and how to only use a very small amount so I took that advice and treaded carefully with the application. The product I thought turned out to he pretty easy to wipe on and off. I then applied Klasse high gloss sealant glaze. I found this product a little harder to work with and harder to wipe off. After finishing the sealant application the product needed to sit for 8-10 hours. I then detailed the interior the rest of the day. Used a shop vac to vacuum out, Stoner Glass Cleaner for the windows, Meguiars ultimate proctectant spray for all the dash and rubber seals, Pinnacle leather care cleaner and conditioner on the seats, a damp microfiber to clean the suede inserts and Meguiars quick detail spray for all the piano black dash and console. Before this detail I also used some 3M Swirl Remover on the piano black dash which made it look better but by no means fixed the problem completely. Havent figured out how to remove all the swirls from this yet. I finished the interior job with some sprays of the Chemical Guys Stripper Scent Spray "love this stuff".
So at this point I had the car washed, clayed, buffed, polished, and sealed on the exterior. All the wheels and tires detailed, treated and back on car. All the windows, plastic, rubber treated and cleaned. I polished the Borla Sport exahust with some steel wheel and Meguiars details spray.
I called it a night.
Before
View attachment 19475
View attachment 19476
View attachment 19477
After
View attachment 19472
View attachment 19473
View attachment 19474
Sunday all that was left to do was hand apply a few coats of Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax. This stuff smells and looks amazing. Pretty expensive but it came in the Forum Favorite Kit which is what bought when I first got on the forum. So I finished applying the carnuba and then cleaned up any smudges or missed wipes on the car and anything that needed touching up.
Here is the end result for my first time really detailing a car the way it is supposed to be detailed using highend products and the advice and knowledge from this great forum and website.
View attachment 19478
View attachment 19479
View attachment 19480
View attachment 19481
View attachment 19482
View attachment 19483
Sorry the pictures arent great. I never could get the same lighting conditions from day to day. I would say my first time was a good one. Working on my own vehicle on a budget and not being able to just by differnt products to try I was happy with my results. The next time I need to figure out what is a better product for swirl and fine scratch removal. The Wolfgang TSR only worked about 80% of the paint correction.
Thanks for looking.
Here is a shot of wheels removed showin it exposed rotors and calipers
View attachment 19455
View attachment 19484
Detailed wheels waiting
View attachment 19485
After with wheel back on
View attachment 19456
Got back to work on Friday night. This was the first time I was using the Griots RO on paint. I was a little nervous to say the least even after watching all the vidoes and reading the tutorials and tips. I did a small test spot on hood using Wolfgangs Total Swirl Remover. My lighting in the garage isnt even close to good so was basically moving around a spot light all night. From what I could tell on the hood, most of the swirls where removed. I then using the Klasse All in One on the test spot by hand. I liked the results so I proceeded on.
Before on hood
View attachment 19460
After on hood
View attachment 19461
So as I started down the side of my car where my swirls are noticable as well as daily driver road damage I noticed the TSR not really cutting it as good as the hood. It was removing the swirls but not really removing the actual distinct scratches. Not fingernail clicking scratches just surface scratches. They where not coming out. Also along the lower quarters and bottom of the car there are all these little white dots that are from driving in the winter. You cannot feel these marks either but the TSW didnt take those out either. I was using an Orange LC pad and had the Griots RO on speed 6. I made sure my technique was good and it just wasnt removing it. I didnt have any other harsher product to try so I was stuck completing the car and moving on at this point. I was happy with the swirl removal but not getting the results a professional shop would be getting. My first rookie mistake was I had finished the front fender and the passenger door and somehow threw product back down the side of the finished section. When I went to wipe this off I basically put swirls right back into the paint. So had to start over. Less product and a clean pad for me the rest of the way around as to not throw product or create any powder on finished areas. Finally finished buffing the car and was probably 80% happy with the results. Time to hit the hay and get some rest for the next day of hand polishing and sealing.
Before TSR applicaton with Griots RO and LC orange pad
View attachment 19462
After
View attachment 19464
Saturday morning I hand applied Klasse All in One to the car and wiped off with the Superplush and Gold plush microfiber towels. I had read all the horror stories about how hard this product is to use and how to only use a very small amount so I took that advice and treaded carefully with the application. The product I thought turned out to he pretty easy to wipe on and off. I then applied Klasse high gloss sealant glaze. I found this product a little harder to work with and harder to wipe off. After finishing the sealant application the product needed to sit for 8-10 hours. I then detailed the interior the rest of the day. Used a shop vac to vacuum out, Stoner Glass Cleaner for the windows, Meguiars ultimate proctectant spray for all the dash and rubber seals, Pinnacle leather care cleaner and conditioner on the seats, a damp microfiber to clean the suede inserts and Meguiars quick detail spray for all the piano black dash and console. Before this detail I also used some 3M Swirl Remover on the piano black dash which made it look better but by no means fixed the problem completely. Havent figured out how to remove all the swirls from this yet. I finished the interior job with some sprays of the Chemical Guys Stripper Scent Spray "love this stuff".
So at this point I had the car washed, clayed, buffed, polished, and sealed on the exterior. All the wheels and tires detailed, treated and back on car. All the windows, plastic, rubber treated and cleaned. I polished the Borla Sport exahust with some steel wheel and Meguiars details spray.
I called it a night.
Before
View attachment 19475
View attachment 19476
View attachment 19477
After
View attachment 19472
View attachment 19473
View attachment 19474
Sunday all that was left to do was hand apply a few coats of Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax. This stuff smells and looks amazing. Pretty expensive but it came in the Forum Favorite Kit which is what bought when I first got on the forum. So I finished applying the carnuba and then cleaned up any smudges or missed wipes on the car and anything that needed touching up.
Here is the end result for my first time really detailing a car the way it is supposed to be detailed using highend products and the advice and knowledge from this great forum and website.
View attachment 19478
View attachment 19479
View attachment 19480
View attachment 19481
View attachment 19482
View attachment 19483
Sorry the pictures arent great. I never could get the same lighting conditions from day to day. I would say my first time was a good one. Working on my own vehicle on a budget and not being able to just by differnt products to try I was happy with my results. The next time I need to figure out what is a better product for swirl and fine scratch removal. The Wolfgang TSR only worked about 80% of the paint correction.
Thanks for looking.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
- Aug 31, 2010
- 17,040
- 1,328
Came out great! Those white dots that didn't polish out may be road paint splatter, or they may be stone chips. Did you look at them closely? Also those deeper scratches, which we call RIDS (random isolated deep scratches) may be too deep for you to safely polish out, even if they don't catch your fingernail (which is a sure sign they are too deep).
- Thread starter
- #18
I will snap a picture of the white dots. They arent paint splatter I would say they look more like rock chips. But you can feel them at all with your fingernail. Is that possible to have a chip you cant feel and only see. I wanted my car to turn out like this post http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/59546-detailed-2009-cadillac-cts-v-black-raven-trashed.html
His before pictures look close to my before pictures but even worse. His paint came out amazing. Should my next detail on my car I just copy what he did. If it works for his car, shouldnt it work for mine if I follow the same steps.
His before pictures look close to my before pictures but even worse. His paint came out amazing. Should my next detail on my car I just copy what he did. If it works for his car, shouldnt it work for mine if I follow the same steps.
MarkD51
Active member
- Oct 15, 2012
- 3,130
- 0
Setec Astro no doubt knows more than I about the Wolfgang Line. I'm a relative newcomer to this forum, but have used WGTSR and also WG Finishing Glaze.
I'm not sure if it is the WGTSR, or the WG Finishing Glaze which is the equivalent abrasiveness of Menzerna SF4000? So I also am looking to be educated here?
I would suspect the amount of cut of the Swirl Remover will be influenced by what pads you will use. I would probably start with a pad like the Lake County White Pads, as these are relatively soft.
Do watch many of the Mike Phillips tutorial vids, and mimic his techniques, you will not have any problems.
Although the Griots DA Machine is said to be slightly more powerful than the Porter Cable 7424XP I own, I would still assume you should be using the Griots at about speed 5 so you will achieve good rotation of the pad.
Mark your Backing Plate with a Magic Marker, so you can witness rotation as you polish. Rotation is easy to kill on all of these type of DA Machines since they are not forced rotation. Insure you fully prime the pad. Too much product at first is better than too little.
If rotation ceases, you are then either placing too much downforce onto the pad, or not properly holding the machine and pad in regards to the paint surface. Polishing with the pad at severe angles to the paint will hamper good pad rotation.
Start and stop with the pad on the paint, as to reduce product sling all over the vehicle.
Tape-cover anything, and everything you don't want possibly harmed by polishing such as emblems, trim, and even door jambs-hood jambs, wiper cowls if you don't want dried residues getting into those areas.
Finish out areas which you cannot access with the machine by hand.
Hope some of this helps.
Mark
I'm not sure if it is the WGTSR, or the WG Finishing Glaze which is the equivalent abrasiveness of Menzerna SF4000? So I also am looking to be educated here?
I would suspect the amount of cut of the Swirl Remover will be influenced by what pads you will use. I would probably start with a pad like the Lake County White Pads, as these are relatively soft.
Do watch many of the Mike Phillips tutorial vids, and mimic his techniques, you will not have any problems.
Although the Griots DA Machine is said to be slightly more powerful than the Porter Cable 7424XP I own, I would still assume you should be using the Griots at about speed 5 so you will achieve good rotation of the pad.
Mark your Backing Plate with a Magic Marker, so you can witness rotation as you polish. Rotation is easy to kill on all of these type of DA Machines since they are not forced rotation. Insure you fully prime the pad. Too much product at first is better than too little.
If rotation ceases, you are then either placing too much downforce onto the pad, or not properly holding the machine and pad in regards to the paint surface. Polishing with the pad at severe angles to the paint will hamper good pad rotation.
Start and stop with the pad on the paint, as to reduce product sling all over the vehicle.
Tape-cover anything, and everything you don't want possibly harmed by polishing such as emblems, trim, and even door jambs-hood jambs, wiper cowls if you don't want dried residues getting into those areas.
Finish out areas which you cannot access with the machine by hand.
Hope some of this helps.
Mark