Worst wheels I've encountered

I had a BMW 335i in the past and now have an Audi S4. My summer wheels stay in good shape, but winter wheels sometimes go for a while without a good cleaning and have this same problem (not as bad as your pictures, just in the corners of the spokes.) I've tried almost everything to see what works best. Of the ones mentioned in this thread, Meg's WB is the best. It does a better job that IronX in my opinion since this build-up is more than just metal filings, it has tar, road dirt, chemicals, etc. Even WB will sometimes not get it all though.
 
You can always find a way to win. I am willing to bet that Ironx would have done the trick.
 
Honestly for the condition they were in prior you almost couldn't get any better however next time something like this comes along I would try and use some poorboys worls spray and rinse wheel cleaner. i used this stuff and let my tell you on a wheel that i thought would be instant salvage cleaned up almost and I enphisize the word "almost" spot free. This stuff is safe from what I understand and of experienced so I would definentely give it a try next time and If you don't have it in you supplies now I would highly recommend you on getting it like A>S>A>P
 
Meticulous-Detail said:
I started doing bad wheels with Meg's WB and the buffer stick/drill and works well. Spray WB, agitate, hit with BS and drill on high, then rinse. If that doesn't work, apply m105 by hand in tight areas then go at it with BS and drill. BS can get chewed up though.
Click to expand...

+1 on the Wheel Bright. It's amazing. I did a bmw x5 whose wheels were like this and i didnt have wheel bright. they might've been able to be saved. i dont have the bc but would like to get it at some point. i did a volvo xc90 like this too and wb didnt get everything off, as well as an old toyota rav 4....wb didnt get everything off for either car but did a pretty good job. i have to try iron x too...
 
Zapa said:
I really want to see a before pic.
Click to expand...

Sorry, wish i had one. I removed at least 50% of the brake dust with wheel brightener. Those areas that are left are very thick. Thick enough that it would be hard to chisel off. Ive seen some really bad wheels but these are by far the worst.

I think id like to try iron x past or somebody mentioned royal jelly. I need something that will dwell and not evaporate, and then i could go after it with m105 and a drill.

Chemical guys makes a gel product right? If its not hydrafloric acid or something similar i cant imagine that it would be as strong as iron x or wheel brightener.
 
statusdetailing said:
Sorry, wish i had one. I removed at least 50% of the brake dust with wheel brightener. Those areas that are left are very thick. Thick enough that it would be hard to chisel off. Ive seen some really bad wheels but these are by far the worst.

I think id like to try iron x past or somebody mentioned royal jelly. I need something that will dwell and not evaporate, and then i could go after it with m105 and a drill.

Chemical guys makes a gel product right? If its not hydrafloric acid or something similar i cant imagine that it would be as strong as iron x or wheel brightener.
Click to expand...

IronX makes a paste that would be perfect for this. You can let it sit there and break down the brake dust.
 
Malco brake off
7247e05d46622dd46f2bf4b323b56c0c_zps90013ca3.jpg
03b9a920ce458dd00c93edad0085387b_zpscd9c61c9.jpg
bc2c13f86e9e06b86d6c2dc6512c46e6_zpsf153e914.jpg

This is no agitation just rinsing after dwelling for about ten minutes!
 
On the semi tanks/wheels/etc I use aluminum brightener to clean, but it is a strong acid and probably not clear coat safe. I bet it would take that stuff right off though.
 
Not on a BMW wheel, Vinny.
They have a sticker that covers the centercap that the acid will eat the aluminum brite part of said sticker. I have a photo somewhere, but too lazy to hunt for it right now. Just finished PW-ing a HUGE deck (7 hours), and waiting for the truck to return with & yards of black mulch.
 
Vegas Transplant said:
Not on a BMW wheel, Vinny.
They have a sticker that covers the centercap that the acid will eat the aluminum brite part of said sticker. I have a photo somewhere, but too lazy to hunt for it right now. Just finished PW-ing a HUGE deck (7 hours), and waiting for the truck to return with & yards of black mulch.
Click to expand...

Oh I would definatley suggest against using it on an auto wheel. But at the same time don't know what their wheel coatings are like and maybe diluted properly it would work, as you mention though it would not.
 
William D. said:
One thing to try would be Naval Jelly.

It's a gel type paste, wear gloves, and apply directly to the affected area. It's a rust remover, but it's done some miracles for me. That may be what a previous poster was referring to.

Apply it, let it sit for however long it says on the bottle (agitate periodically if you want) then hose/scrub it off.

IF that doesn't do it, nothing will, most likely.
Click to expand...

Seconded on the Naval Jelly.

I have a Dodge Ram with some 22's, for some reason they acquire terrible, caked up, hard as a rock, brake dust. On a whim one day I threw some Naval Jelly on there and used a toothbrush with the rubber bristles... took it right off. I had tried everything to get that stuff off of those wheels and had lived with that crap on there for months. They looked as good as new when I was done.

Wear gloves and don't let it touch your tires, it's strong.

You can get it at Lowes for pretty cheap.
 
So what's in naval jelly that makes it work so well?

On another note i just have to vent about how much i hate using harsh chemicals likes wheel acids. I hate being around them amd hate putting them down the drain but sometimes it just seems like theres no way around it. Sigh...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top