would you be reluctant to buy a 2001 car with less than 1,000 miles?

I change the oil in my Formula every year also and I drive it only about 2000 a year if that, I am considering changing it once when I get it out and once before putting it away for the winter.

If you like the price I wouldnt hesitate to buy that car as long as it checked out ok.
 
octane said:
only 2 oil changes done on it in 13 years?! even if it wasn't driven, it should still of had an oil change per year...
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I couldn't agree more, once a year is key and how about the coolant, that errodes as well. I'm sure the gearbox and diff fluids would be ok but also the brake fluid needs to be changed and make sure the calipers aren't frozen up. I'm sure the tires are shot, they guy needs to come down a little bit but one has to wonder, why not sell the car along much earlier rather than let it sit and go to waste?
 
Scott@IncrediblyDetailed said:
Why? Does oil have an expiration date?
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Not per se, but oil manufacturers recommend not using "old" oil because the additives break down over time. It's also why it's a good idea to change your oil over a time interval if you don't put too many miles on your car. I use Amsoil signature series in my firebird, changed once a year, which is what that oil is formulated for (or 25000 miles). I maybe put a thousand miles a year on that car. 2 oil changes over the life of a 13 year old car, like this s2000, is way no bueno.

I'm also not a fan of the "run it 20 minutes a month" logic because the engine needs to come up to operating temperature to allow the catalytic converter to come up to operating temperature to burn off deposits and keep itself clean. When cars aren't brought up to operating temperature and actually driven, only running for 20 minutes at a time, combustion by products get blown by the piston rings into the crankcase contaminating the oil. In normal driving, these compounds get burned up through the Pcv system (or vented out if the car has a breather), but when the car isn't driven they remain in the oil and make it acidic. The car is better off sitting dormant with fresh oil.

OP I really think you are playing with fire with this car and at quite the steep privet tag.


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When cars sit, moisture builds up and breaks down the systems. It causes acid build up that eats the exhaust, erodes brake systems, and causes fuel system varnishing. That is the reason for products such as Sta-Bil. Seals and other rubber parts dry out, crack, and leak. Engine parts such as lifters and cams also dry out as the oil drains down away from them. Many years ago, I had a car that was only driven once or twice a year, it was common on start up to have/hear dry lifters until they pumped up again. Back then a little STP helped. Today a good synthetic oil seems to prevent that better than the oils of the 70s and 80s.

With all of that said, I personally would have changed the oil annually, but that doesn't mean this car is going to have mechanical problems. I would check any visible seals for leaks, check brake hoses (and other hoses for cracks), fuel lines (if any are rubber), tires (near the bead), check the brake fluid to see if there appears to be any contamination, and check the cooling system (I'd pull the plug on the bottom to see if there is any rust). Look for signs of oil leaks (pull the trans inspection cover and look closely at the rear main). If you find anything, use it to get the price down. I personally wouldn't be afraid of buying it, just aware of potential problems that may have to be dealt with
 
Ford recommended changing the oil every six months in my 2010 Mustang regardless of miles. I only put about 4,000 miles a year on the car but change the oil every six months.
 
ekennett said:
I'm also not a fan of the "run it 20 minutes a month" logic because the engine needs to come up to operating temperature to allow the catalytic converter to come up to operating temperature to burn off deposits and keep itself clean. When cars aren't brought up to operating temperature and actually driven, only running for 20 minutes at a time, combustion by products get blown by the piston rings into the crankcase contaminating the oil. In normal driving, these compounds get burned up through the Pcv system (or vented out if the car has a breather), but when the car isn't driven they remain in the oil and make it acidic. The car is better off sitting dormant with fresh oil.
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All good points. Plus you have to consider the start-up wear from all those monthly 'maintenance' starts.
 
k4df4l said:
All good points. Plus you have to consider the start-up wear from all those monthly 'maintenance' starts.
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As long as the car is brought up to operating temps those monthly "maintence starts" are no problem at all IMO but yearly oil changes are still key!

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ekennett said:
I would be very leery of that. First off, asking price is wayyyyy too much, but when cars sit around not being used problems start to form. Leaky valve seals, degenerated bushings, cracked hydraulic lines, frozen brakes, flat spotted tires, etc... Even though it's been in a climate controlled environment these parts still wear down over time with oxygen exposure.


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Klasse Act said:
I couldn't agree more, once a year is key and how about the coolant, that errodes as well. I'm sure the gearbox and diff fluids would be ok but also the brake fluid needs to be changed and make sure the calipers aren't frozen up. I'm sure the tires are shot, they guy needs to come down a little bit but one has to wonder, why not sell the car along much earlier rather than let it sit and go to waste?
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Bazinga!!!! :iagree:

The calipers not being worked are a HUGE deal. Brake fluid sucks in moisture, especially deep south moisture.

I'd think a thorough going through of the brake system, flush, probably lines, for SURE seals is in order. Tires are a no brainer. Basically all the fluids and all the rubber components, IE hoses, belts etc.

But the biggie would be the timing belt. I don't know that engine, but assuming it's a belt, not a chain. In that instance when all the OTHER belts are being changed you'd want to change the timing belts.

Do keep in mind that odometers can be reprogrammed. Not saying that's what has happened, but by plugging into the OBD2 port it's easy to put whatever mileage you want into a digital odometer. :eek:

After saying all that, honestly... if you're interested (and he's flexible on the price) a 5 hour trip is nothing in the grand scheme of things. I'd take off and go look at it were it a car I wanted to even consider. But you'd need to make a line item list of anything and everything that you'd consider servicing, including the battery and tires. Take that list with you, preferably printed out from a local shop that services Honda's. Then once there make it clear that your cost's involved include that list and work from there.

ORRRRRRR if you just want to park it and not drive it, then haul it home on a rollback (which will cost from $500 to $750 if it's 250 miles away) and park it. OTOH, I'd have it hauled home on a rollback anyhow. Sitting this long opens doors to all sorts of problems that can arise. Putting new tires on, changing the oil and driving it home can likely be an invitation to standing on the roadside waiting on a tow truck AND BEING AT HIS MERCY! Scheduling the tow during the off hours will end up costing as little as half as much (and get you the people you want, in the truck you want) rather than taking whatever guy shows up and decides to stick it to you. So yeah, add the towing bill to the price as well.
 
Thank you tremendously everyone for the input as it's all extremely helpful. :dblthumb2:

A lot of your replies support the reservation I had about the age and low mileage situation with this vehicle. Along with this and the high price tag I'm going to pass on it.

My next step is to find one locally to test drive as I haven't done so yet. If I like the ride I've decided to look for a 2005 model or newer. Searching the main used car sale sites I have found newer models for less money with more realistic mileage.

The good thing is that I'm in no hurry to do this so I can take my time looking around.

Thanks again everyone I really appreciate it!
 
I like to work on cars. So, I would buy it if I could get it for the right price and didn't need it as a daily driver.

I wouldn't if I needed to drive it every day right when I bought it!
 
You just said the right words Scott. "Not in a hurry". ;)

I wouldn't necessarily rule it out, just that you should go in with both eyes open. Can't make all things new again, especially all the interior parts and pieces, and most importantly the paint and trim! :)

It is important though that the seller know it isn't a collector car, it's just a low mileage car. But with it being that low there are very valid concerns. Perhaps as you continue to take your time, and he ends up holding on to it, down the road there may be a meeting of the minds. :dunno: Wouldn't be the worst thing in the world. ;)
 
twitch77 said:
Thank you tremendously everyone for the input as it's all extremely helpful. :dblthumb2:

A lot of your replies support the reservation I had about the age and low mileage situation with this vehicle. Along with this and the high price tag I'm going to pass on it.

My next step is to find one locally to test drive as I haven't done so yet. If I like the ride I've decided to look for a 2005 model or newer. Searching the main used car sale sites I have found newer models for less money with more realistic mileage.

The good thing is that I'm in no hurry to do this so I can take my time looking around.

Thanks again everyone I really appreciate it!
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Something you will get here on AG alot of good opinions :xyxthumbs:
 
cardaddy said:
Do keep in mind that odometers can be reprogrammed. Not saying that's what has happened, but by plugging into the OBD2 port it's easy to put whatever mileage you want into a digital odometer. :eek:
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I personally don't think this is a concern. I have ever heard of this happening and if was that easy you would think people would be doing it all of the time. If I understand it correctly, the odometer is actually designed to prevent this. Even when the instrument cluster is changed out the mileage has to be programmed in when ordering a new one (part of consumer laws). The only way I'm aware of to avoid this is to get a used part from a salvage yard. That doesn't mean it couldn't happen, I guess. A good indicator if this is a concern...driver's seat wear.
 
Legacykid said:
ask for service records. regardless of use (miles) you still would need to have services done, at the very least oil. Friend of mine bought an older 300zx low miles and all. guy who owned it just never used it. Problem was it sat there for years and years. Once he got it the tires, belts, and AC unit went. He fixes car so no biggy to him.

Anyway you can go down and check it out?
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If the car has less than a 1000 miles on it, how many times do you think the oïl would have been changed exactly? I would say never.
 
I am looking at the blackbook for that car and it's listed at 9500$ for good condition by seller and 13000$ retail. Depending how much they are asking for it you can decide if it's Worth it. Just think there might be some stuff to do on the car because it has been sitting for all these years. I would put aside 2000$ in potential repairs and maintenance for it. So anything Under 11,000$ would be fair price and anything Under 7500$ would be a good deal.

But that's just me.
 
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