Would you skip polishing step given this scenario?

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2002mrhill

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All correction has been made and paint is back to showroom "new". Regular & proper washing is being done. No signs of correction is needed and it's time to apply a fresh paint sealant. Which option would you choose?

Option 1:
1. Clay
2. Paint sealant

Option 2:
1. Clay
2. Polish
3. Paint sealant

Option 2:
1. Clay
2. Cleaner/sealant (all-in-one)

In short, I am concerned applying a polish or cleaner/sealant (AOI) on existing paint in great condition will cause more damage than just applying straight paint sealant.
 
2002mrhill said:
All correction has been made and paint is back to showroom "new". Regular & proper washing is being done. No signs of correction is needed and it's time to apply a fresh paint sealant. Which option would you choose?

Option 1:
1. Clay
2. Paint sealant

Option 2:
1. Clay
2. Polish
3. Paint sealant

Option 2:
1. Clay
2. Cleaner/sealant (all-in-one)

In short, I am concerned applying a polish or cleaner/sealant (AOI) on existing paint in great condition will cause more damage than just applying straight paint sealant.
Click to expand...


well I see that all of your options have clay in them. So if you clay chances are really good that you will need to use a polish as there is a good chance that there will be some marring from the claying process. Also if you use a good polish and a light polishing pad then I doubt that you would do any harm to the paint at all. something like M205 or a menzerna fine/finishing polish. Then of course before you do the sealant wipe it down with diluted IPA mixture and then do the sealant.
 
I hear you on the M205...I have used Megs Ultimate Polish which is very similar. It seems not very abrasive. I've just always went on the side of not using abrasives unless needed. So I'm thinking I'd be safe to use UP with a very low cut pad, not too many passes and at lower DA speed. Glad to know you think the polish would be a safe path, thank you!
 
Just to check - have you inspected the paint (baggie test) to verify you do need to clay?

Chances are if the car has been out in the world it'll need to be clayed, but you don't say how long it's been since it's last correction and sealing. If it passes, I would think you then you can skip all forms of abrasive (clay included), and go right to reapplying your sealant.
 
So it is bad to clay then go directly to a sealant for possible marring caused by the clay? Rule of thumb if your claying is to follow with a polish?
 
Since clay is a form of abrasive, it's pretty much inevitable that you'll induce some micromarring during the clay process. So you'd then want to follow up with a polish.

That's why I was wondering if you've confirmed you have contaminants that require claying - Everyone's situation is different. The life my car lives (high daily mileage, all weather, parked outside near trees at work, etc), it's a strong candidate for having a shorter clay interval.

For someone in better conditions, that clay interval could be drastically longer. You wouldn't bother claying (again, due to risk of inducing marring) unless you had to.

For me, the claying process starts with the baggie test. If it passes, on to the next step.

It also doesn't hurt to do a quick baggie test after you clay too, so you can calibrate your expectations for the future. There was a thread on here recently where someone was struggling getting a smooth baggie test, but come to find out there will always be a certain amount of texture you can feel.

(this is all just my opinion on the matter - looking forward to other peoples thoughts)
 
My answer is very concrete....it depends!

The need for a polishing step would be driven by whether the clay bar left any marring and how long it had been since the car was polished last. If you get really lucky with the claying, you might be able to skip polishing for a while, but wax and deep grime build up over time will necessitate polishing eventually.

Polishing with a mild product once a year should do that much harm.
 
Based on the description of the paint condition in the original post I'd simply apply the sealant. No clay, no polish, no anything other than wash and wax. Sometimes we tend to over analyze this ####. It's not rocket science.
 
OPTION 1 is what I would do. If it passes the "BAGGIE TEST" there is no need to clay. Just wash and seal. Enjoy the final detail!
 
I've always had to polish after using clay/nano. The chances of not having SOME sort of marring afterwards are slim (IMHO).
If you want to "skip a step" then use the AIO option.
 
how long has it been since it was last polished? has it been driven a lot? in what conditions? did you do a baggie test and it failed? I doubt you'd need to do much but a quick polish with a white pad and some decent polish will help by removing road grime and preparing the surface to receive the next coat of whatever LSP you plan to use.
 
2002mrhill said:
In short, I am concerned applying
a polish or cleaner/sealant (AOI)
on existing paint in great condition
will cause more damage than just
applying straight paint sealant.
Click to expand...
•If you're the person that's responsible
for causing the existing paint to be in
great condition...
-then, IMO (and unless you suddenly
decide to apply the polish or the AIO
with a jackhammer):
You should not cause any damages to
said paint that's in great condition.

{Same rational goes when you're just
applying a Sealant to the same afore-
mentioned paint.}



Bob
 
I think this all depends on your final expectations. Are you looking for a "show car finish" straight from Mike P's books?

Or are you willing to live with paint that is 90-95% swirl-free and protected?

It also depends on the color of the paint. Black? Darker blues, etc.?

If not, you can probably live with the 90-95%. (Which describes me exactly.) :xyxthumbs:
 
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