Would you use a nanoskin on an older classic/muscle car with custom paint, or stick with traditional clay?

J

JoeHotRod

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For those of you that ever work on classic cars or muscle cars I'm sure you deal with all types of paint jobs, single stages, two stages, soft paints, hard coats...etc.

So with that said, I have the nanoskin clay hand mitt in addtition to the traditional Meguiars clay as well as the pinnacle "fine" clay which works grea

So what do you think? Will the nanoskin possibly Marr the paint more than traditional clay??
 
I never have, but a lot of Mike Phillips' articles have those cars you describe and he uses nanoskin.
 
It depends is that custom paint single stage or clear coated???
If it's single stage then I would use traditional clay to limit potential marring, and or the removal of vintage/irreplaceable paint system but if it's clear coated then by all means go ahead with Nanoskin substitute clay product cause the clear coat of the system can be replaced if was polished too much/wrong hands.
 
conman1395 is correct and you can see this by reading any of my project write-ups.


I use Nanoskin products on a lot if not most of the classics, antiques, hotrods and muscle cars we detail here because they work so well at removing everything and this is important if the goal is a high gloss finish.

I already know and assume that these products are likely going to mar the paint but I don't care because I'm going to machine polish the paint after I mechanically decontaminate the paint and this will remove the marring. If I'm not going to machine polish a car then in the majority of cases I won't clay or use things like Nanoskin products.


I have a HUGE section on the importance of mechanically decontaminating paint in my new book as well as my first book as it's that important if the goal is gloss and shine.


I used a Medium Grade Nanoskin Pad on a Flex 3401 on this show car, that is... I didn't mess around....



How to use the Flex 3401 for Show Car Detailing




:xyxthumbs:
 
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