XMT360 AIO Big Problems - Need some advice

WRXINXS

WRXINXS

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Hey guys,

I'm having a big problem after application of XMT360 AIO and need some advice.

The car I am working on is my Black 2003 Subaru Impreza WRX (Crazy soft clear-coat)

I washed my car (Foam Cannon followed by two bucket method). I clayed it with the new Opti-Eraser clay substitute (mild grade) with ONR for lube. I used XMT360 with my PCXP and orange tangerine hydrotech pad on speed setting 5. I made about 2 to 3 passes with the product. They say it leaves no haze but from what I read you still have to buff off a very slight haze. Then the trouble began when I tried to wipe off the haze with my clean COBRA towels.

Most of it came off easily but all over the car it left "scuffs" or "smudges" where it would not come off unless you rub crazy hard with the microfiber. So, I was desperate to get them off so I rubbed hard to get them off. Then I brought my car in the direct light and it was swirl city in the spots I had rubbed.

So, I started over to get out the swirls I had just inflicted. this time using green CCS pads and much less product. Same exact results. Smudges everywhere.

I tried to remove them with a ONR wash, Optimum Power Clean at 1:3, Carpro Eraser, and Griots pre-wax cleanser. None worked, although OPC seemed to remove some of it but I did not want to use a APC on my entire car's paint so I stopped at one panel.

Here are some pics of the "scuffs"


2-16-13_scuffs_5_700.JPG


2-16-13_scuffs_3_700.JPG


2-16-13_scuffs_4_700.JPG


2-16-13_scuffs_1_700.JPG


2-16-13_scuffs_2_700.JPG


There are also what looks like buffer swirls made of residue as well. Same as the other scuffs just in circular form.

What are my options? I was going to put a sealant over the AIO. Either Opti-Seal or WGDGPS. I did not try to remove the scuffs this time so my paint is not swirled. BUt I am afraid to try to remove them and swirl it up yet again. My Subaru clear is so soft. Should I just drive it around and it might come off after a few washes? Is there a way to remove them without heavy buffing? Should I try to apply a sealant over it with a buffer and see if that removes it?

If I do just drive it around and hope it comes out can I put a sealant over it or would that just seal it in even more?

Thanks,
Drew

BTW in anything other then direct light my car looks super jet black and glossy and feels insanely slick. But when you get in under direct lights..........
 
Ditch the XMT 360 and use M205. Then you can thank me later.

Edit: After M205 with a polishing pad, seal it with your favorite sealant/wax.
 
Have you tried an IPA wipe down? I would try that if not, then use a different polish.
 
Are you priming your pad? When I first started I put buffer trails into the clear coat (my girlfriend's soft paint Nissan) with a DA by dry buffing (aka not using enough product).
 
ihaveacamaro said:
Are you priming your pad? When I first started I put buffer trails into the clear coat (my girlfriend's soft paint Nissan) with a DA by dry buffing (aka not using enough product).
Click to expand...

I put one squirt of XMT pad conditioner on the pad before I started but cannot guarantee it covered the whole pad. Also, Maybe I did not use enough product. Good point. Making me think maybe it is in the clear coat and not a substance on top? I do have megs 205 but I'd hate to do the car for a third time.
 
Try using a some of the XMT360, just a dab, on a foam applicator on the spots it left followed be a wipe with a MF. I haven't had this happen but try using a little less product next time. In my experience this is a great product and works really well so keep trying.
 
CM8 6MT said:
Ditch the XMT 360 and use M205. Then you can thank me later.

Edit: After M205 with a polishing pad, seal it with your favorite sealant/wax.
Click to expand...

If it is a problem I can't correct and I do need to use megs 205 what pad would you recommend for my soft clear coat. I have hyrdrotech tangerines, white ccs, green ccs, orange ccs? How many passes would you recommend? Speed 5 or 6 on PC?

Before I apply the Opti-Seal or WGDGPS can I use griots pre-wax cleanser or would IPA be best?

Thanks,
Drew
 
Youtube search prime pad porter cable or prime pad m205 or m105, good instructions there. The spray you used was pad conditioner to soften it a bit, doesn't prime it. The pad should be very lightly coated , by you spreading it around with your finger, with product BEFORE you add dime sized spots or cross lines or a circle of product To the pad, that coating of polish is priming the pad. If you didn't do that then you dry buffed it most likely.
 
Def prep pad. I have used crystal mist and or cover pad with product I was going to use. I to have used this product without issue. I agree to try a little and don't polish product all the way stop after first or second pass and buff with mf. Would be worth a try on one spot.
 
Oh and really study the threads and youtube videos on M205 before trying it, you really need to properly prime the pad before attempting it.
 
Ok, based on what you guys are saying and what I am seeing, I'm pretty sure I dry buffed. I did not prime the pad :bash:.

I think I can correct this by priming the pad properly and using XMT360 again on the car. My paint is so soft I think it might fix it.

If not I will step up to 205 on a white ccs pad.

Well I guess I had no plans for sunday anyway lol!
 
jjj said:
Good luck.
Click to expand...

Thanks! BTW when using spot buff 4" pads on 3.5" backing plate do I still use the speed setting 5 or would I need to back it down?

Drew
 
I would back down, 3.5 4. My opinion u can always go up.
 
I think you have to figure out are the "scuffs":

1. defects from buffing?

2. Excess XMT left on the paint that wont come off?

- You mentioned initially OPC 1:3 "removed" some of it. OPC won't remove defects - just product. But it isn't 100% clear if it's product or defects left on the paint. I would figure this out first before proceeding, as "re-polishing" may not be required if it's just product.

If it was me I would forget the machine for a minute and work by hand on one scuffed area. Put a tape line through a scuff and work that area gently by hand using a clean microfiber towel and a paint cleaner or fine polish. Forget trying to chemically strip the paint of product using an APC/IPA type liquid, as that can be hit or miss. Then, clean the area gently with car wash and water. Remove the tape. If the scuff is gone where the tape wasn't you know it's just filler/product/glaze from the XMT that's dried on the paint.

If the scuff is still there, then you know XMT AIO isn't for you and you need a fine polish and finishing pad. If that is the case, I recommend Menz SF 4500 or Optimum Finishing Polish on a black pad on speed 4-5, medium pressure, 4-6 passes.

Either way, this does demonstrate the importance of doing a test spot. Good luck, it can be fixed.
 
The first time I used XMT 360 I didn't work it long enough and it left DA haze, tic marks, micro-marring. When I went back over it and worked it until almost gone I had better results. My paint is also VERY soft. This experience was using 4" spot buff ccs pads. 360 seems like it has quite a bit of correction power for an AIO in my experience. I have stayed away from 360 since then, opting for 205 or Wolfgang finishing glaze instead. I'm sure it has it's place, but on my truck is not it. Good luck. Nice rides!!
 
Thanks guys! I'm not going to give up on XMT360 just yet. I will do some test spots tomorrow. I really think it is not so much excess product but hazing due to dry buffing.

I think I am seeing two different things. Most of what I am seeing is hazing in the clear coat due to dry buffing and also there were a few small areas with excess hard to remove product which I can take care of.

Drew
 
Just watched Mike Phillips 2 part video about using the PCXP. Also read his article about how to prime a pad and clean a pad on the fly. I'm ready to go tomorrow! No more dry-buffing for me!:nomore:
 
WRXINXS said:
If it is a problem I can't correct and I do need to use megs 205 what pad would you recommend for my soft clear coat. I have hyrdrotech tangerines, white ccs, green ccs, orange ccs? How many passes would you recommend? Speed 5 or 6 on PC?

Before I apply the Opti-Seal or WGDGPS can I use griots pre-wax cleanser or would IPA be best?

Thanks,
Drew
Click to expand...

XMT 360 is a pretty weak product. Decent AIO but those scuff marks will come right off with 205 and a white pad or other polishing pad. 2-3 passes should take care of it on speed 5. I dont use CSS pads other than gray pads for wax/sealant application. I use meg pads for correction work. Although your white pads should be fine.

You dont need menzerna or optimum polishes to take care of this issue, as a matter of fact they wont even finish down as nice as M205 will. Give it a shot again with your XMT, but if it doesnt take care of it, Meguiar's always comes to the rescue.

Below is a thread I made on working with M205 and its potential, which many here underestimate due to lack of knowledge.

www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/59393-maximize-your-product-s-full-potential.html
 
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