Yellow road paint

M

MONSTERMATT

New member
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
59
Reaction score
0
So i spent the whole day removing the yellow road paint from my black escaalde, the real fun was the fender liners, which i used wd-40 and a sharp piece of plastic, for the paint i used ammonia and hot water with the plastic edge too, is there an easier way? btw iam still chipping little specs , obviously because i am looking for it!! but is there a special compund that will melt this off , i had to use lots of elbow grease too, there has to be a better way! THANKS
 
Road paint is very tough to deal with considering the abuse is must endure each way on our roads.

I found this solution but I must caution, Lacquer Thinner is a strong solvent but as long as it's factory paint you should be OK...

  1. Put on rubber gloves.
  2. Moisten a small shop towel with lacquer-paint-thinning solvent. Wring out the towel to prevent dripping.
  3. Apply solvent to the road-line paint, using the damp towel.
  4. Wait 10 to 15 seconds for the lacquer solvent to loosen the paint
  5. Wipe the road-line paint from your car, using a terry cloth. Massage the road paint in a circular motion until it comes loose.
  6. Moisten a fresh towel with lacquer-paint-thinning solvent and wipe down any remaining road-line paint. Use the buffer, equipped with a wool pad, to clean off the remaining road paint.
  7. Dry excess lacquer solvent with a new, dry towel.

​
 
happened to me with wifes black suv. finally gave up on wheel wells and bought 3 m undercoating in a spray can. this stuff is perfect and looks better than new. you must be finding out that the damn yellow paint actually multiplies under cover of darkness. check the car in 6 months you will still find new patches.
 
What a coincidence, this was one of my topics tonight on Mel Craig's Detailer's Pro Conference Call.

The topic wasn't how to remove it but how to diagnosis and then educate the customer on the time issues surround the removal of the paint as most people have no idea how long it will take to remove.


I'd follow Bobby's recommendation, especially wearing gloves just to keep your skin from absorbing any of the solvents.


Tough, tough problem. I rarely recommend searching the forum for answers but this is a case where maybe doing some searching will come up with some solutions that have worked for others in the past.

I'm wondering if the DOT has a recommendation?


:)
 
I used paint stripper and it worked in minutes. As always must be real careful. Lacquer thinner is probably your best bet as stated above.
 
I found some white road paint on a vehicle that I was detailing recently, so I tried Tar-x CarPro Tar X Tar & Adhesive Remover and it came off fairly easily with a little scrubbing with a microfiber rag, not sure if it will work for your situation. I first tried Iron-x just to see if it worked, but it didn't, the tar-x worked really well for me. I don't think the product is intended to remove road paint.

I also have used lacquer thinner with success as well.
 
I typically use acetone. I find it easier to heat it up just a bit to soften it. Then gently rub with the acetone/paint thinner.

Sometimes it can get caked on real thick in certain spots. I usually heat up the area, then scrape (not down to the factory paint!) off with a plastic chisel. Once you removed the excess, you can then use the solvent on the rest.

If you're ever having to do this as a service...quote high!!! It's a tedious, risky, and time consuming repair. If it goes better than you thought...then surprise the customer with a price drop. But, it will most likely be a pain, ha.
 
I always try to post to these kinds of questions if anything to somehow back into an answer one day. I had the yellow lines on my car (NJ roads, in case different paints are used) and nothing could move it. Then winter rolled along, and one day while kicking off a bunch of built up slush between the front wheel and the plastic mud guard--where most of the road paint was hiding--the slush took off almost all of the yellow paint! It had been there for MONTHS...pushing a year even.

We use typical road salt and some sort of calcium brine I believe, and it would've been in NJ and Philly. So maybe someone here knows something about road treatments, road paints and the underlying chemistry between them?
 
I've used fine grit sanding blocks for the fender liners with some success. Works great for small specks. The other processes listed are very interesting and potentially dangerous but if successful would be worth the effort. Just make sure to wear your PPE! I myself might try the paint thinner now, thanks again Bobby. You and the others are great resources. You just usually answer my questions the quickest, lol.
 
big tyme said:
I've used fine grit sanding blocks for the fender liners with some success. Works great for small specks. The other processes listed are very interesting and potentially dangerous but if successful would be worth the effort. Just make sure to wear your PPE! I myself might try the paint thinner now, thanks again Bobby. You and the others are great resources. You just usually answer my questions the quickest, lol.
Click to expand...

I don't think paint thinner (same as Kerosine or Mineral spirits) will work. Need to use Lacquer thinner.Paint thinner works great for tar removal.
 
MONSTERMATT said:
So i spent the whole day removing the yellow road paint from my black escaalde, the real fun was the fender liners, which i used wd-40 and a sharp piece of plastic, for the paint i used ammonia and hot water with the plastic edge too, is there an easier way? btw iam still chipping little specs , obviously because i am looking for it!! but is there a special compund that will melt this off , i had to use lots of elbow grease too, there has to be a better way! THANKS
Click to expand...

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
The topic wasn't how to remove it but how to diagnosis and then educate the customer on the time issues surround the removal of the paint as most people have no idea how long it will take to remove.

Tough, tough problem. I rarely recommend searching the forum for answers but this is a case where maybe doing some searching will come up with some solutions that have worked for others in the past.

I'm wondering if the DOT has a recommendation?


:)
Click to expand...

Road paint/striping is formulated to be very fast drying...usually with a drive-over rate drying time between 3-15 minutes...Hard to pressure wash it off a vehicle within that limitation!!! No easy way or special compound to make it go POOF, IMO.

I, too, am curious about road paint's correct removal. Only took a couple of minutes to drive over and visit my State's friendly { :bash: }, local DOT office. I was given this info:

*Typical types of road paint/striping, followed by some recommended removal-methods' products (Thinners) containing one or more of these ingredients/chemicals :

Waterborne Paint and
Temporary/Removable Paint...Ethyl alcohol; diacetone alcohol; hydroxy-4 methyl 2 pentanone

Alkyd Paint and
Polymer Modified Solvent Based Paint and
Chlorinated Rubber Modified Alkyd Paint....methyl benzene; toluene; phenyl methane.

Cold-Applied Plastic and
Thermoplastic...methyl methacrylate; poly methyl methacrylic

Cement-based---Rolled/sprayed: Portland cement remover.


Note:
I asked about the usage of WD-40 and ammonia/hot water mix that you tried (along with what I have used on occasion...Vaseline/petroleum jelly; IPA; Naptha)

I was told that most of these are petro-based solvents and posed no significant risk if used with discretion/moderation. IPA is in most window cleaners---spray it on, let it soak, blot....repeat.

I was cautioned to use any road paint remover in a non-conspicuous area before proceeding, and start with the water-based solvent first. (HMMM....around here: Isn't that called a "test-spot/least aggressive method" ? I thought so!)

Keep in mind these are only guidelines, proceed with due diligence.



The EPA is requiring that every state and its municilalities use water-based road paints....exceptions are given to school zones, pedestrian crosswalks, handicap zones, and airport runways, among others. These are the areas that require long-life paints that usually contain, along with paint pigments, carrier solvents, etc., either the cold-applied, or thermoset, 'plastics' resins.

If not familiar with the type of road paint, and what location the paint mishap occurred, IHMO, Always, whenever in doubt, contact your local DOT. They are the ones that let out the contracts, [and the 'type of paint' to be used on a project], to "certified/qualified Stripers". They must follow the municipalities guidelines or be penalized. The stripers must also carry liability, worker's comp insurance....making "striping mistakes" is the last thing they want to do. But alas and aleck, they do. :(


Last but not least:
Keep in mind that road paint contains glass beads (Silica) for reflectivity, crushed quartz (for non-skid)......So....Be very careful with any "Rubbing Techniques"...and always follow the safety guidelines/PPE for any solvent use.

Hope this helps you some OP.

:)

Bob
 
JUST GOT ASKED TO get pait off a brand new GMC quad cab. Im digging this tread up forit, has anyone used med grade clay for this?
 
Got a call for this problem today. Quoted him around 100$. That's my minimal fee for going anywhere to do service. I charge 40$/h after the first hour if I can't complete the work in 1 hour.

My instinct was to use acetone. I believe I have lacquer thinner in my arsenal as well but I will check, it might be paint thinner (thanks to the comment about it not being effective for road paint).

I also have Tar-X and WD-40. So I don't expect any problems removing it.

Did you guys have to polish the panels after the yellow paint was gone?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top