yet another Newbie question(s)

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NA709

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Mike and the Gang,

Hello! New user finally signed up after being a frequent lurker on here doing research!

The reason I have been a frequent lurker is because I am the new owner of a black acura. Great condition. Low miles. And puts a smile on my face every time i drive it.

This is my daily driver. I have no plans of putting into a car show or any competition. I just want paint protection/ durability and shine until 200,000 miles. (It is an Acura! it can do it. ha ha)

The car looks great all the time however I want to ensure that it will continue to do so for a very long time in the future. This if my first time doing an "extensive detail" on a vehicle, so it is a little intimidating with the whole process. (Not to mention the amount of stuff out there on the shelves and online is enough to make your head spin, because everyone has their opinions about it)

I was hoping you could give me some advice on my plan of action. The car has no scratches, very minor swirl marks and still has a great shine and gloss to it.

I would like to do an "Extensive" detail on the vehicle 2 or 3 times a year. The following is my plan for an extensive detail ( all by hand) with a few questions:

1. Wash/ Dry properly ( Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo and Conditioner / MF drying towel)

2. Clay Bar ( Meguiar's smooth surface kit) <------not going to lie, a little bit intimidated clay barring my new car for the first time ; /

3. Clean/Polish--- SwirlX --how abrasive is this product?? (I want to keep this car a very long time and i would hate to constantly damage my clear coat with abrasives. is this a very mild cleaner/polish? )

4. Wax - I plan on using DuraGloss 105 ( 2 thin coats) rather than NXT 2.0. I know they label it as a cleaner/polish, but I hear its more of a protectant/wax. Its not an "abrasive" polish is it? Any other wax/sealant suggestions?

Couple other things, I plan on using microfiber applicator pads instead of foam for the waxes/cleaner/polish stages. I also, plan to use 3M painters tape around the seals/lights/etc., is that safe for clear coats?

Those are my steps. I would appreciate any advice and suggestions that you can provide on any methods or products listed above. Once again, main goals on this vehicle are 1. Not damage it, 2. Protect it 3. Make it shine to the fullest extent.

Thank you so much for your help and sorry for all the newbie questions. Bring on the advice, suggestions, and words of encouragement so i don't screw this up too bad

thanks!

-NA709
 
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Are you looking for mostly OTC stuff? You need a good DA for paint correction. You can do it by hand , but it will take forever. Plus the results will not be as good as a DA polisher.
 
thanks for your reply!!

sorry, i moved my post to the ask mike section.

but yes, i am looking at all OTC stuff and will be doing it by hand. (or at least try to.)

what is a DA polisher?

thanks.

na7
 
Re: yet another Newbie detailing question(s)

The Pinnacle XMT Series is a GREAT series of polishes to learn and start out with. While Swirl-X can offer some correction a good 2 step (XMT #3 and XMT #1) followed up with a sealant AND wax would be your best bet. There only a handful of products that I use from Wal Mart, Auto parts places, etc. Degreasers, Eagle F21 Tire Foam, Invisible Glass, and Meguiar's Claybar kits are about it. There's just so little available in the stores that offer the right stuff for the right job.

In my opinion, you should get a Porter Cable 7424XP with a 5.5" Lake Country 6 pack with 3 orange and 3 white. Get yourself the Pinnacle XMT #3 and #1, some Poorboy's EX-P Sealant, Poorboy's Natty's Red paste wax, and some foam applicators. You'd probably prefer to apply waxes and sealants with the foamies after using them. Then pick up a nice set of Cobra MF towels (at LEAST 6 or so)

You're looking at around $300



Attempting correction by hand will be (in my eyes) a complete waste of time and money. You won't get the correction you want. To get a black car looking it's best it WILL require a machine.
 
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+10 on needing a machine. I have always had black cars (mustangs and one prelude) and am known for keeping them clean. Once I bit the bullet and bought a PC it is like night and day comparing what my cars used to look like and what they look like today. I probably spend more time now because of the results you can get with a PC. I am getting ready to upgrade to the Griot's machine in a month or so. Go ahead and get the machine you will not be sorry, oh and check out the products on here and other dedicated detail sights as the quality is way above what you can usually get OTC.
 
NA709 said:
2. Clay Bar ( Meguiar's smooth surface kit) <------not going to lie, a little bit intimidated clay barring my new car for the first time
Click to expand...

Just make sure everything is clean. I have an article that goes over the technique here,

Tips and Tricks for using detailing clay

NA709 said:
3. Clean/Polish--- SwirlX --how abrasive is this product?? (I want to keep this car a very long time and i would hate to constantly damage my clear coat with abrasives. is this a very mild cleaner/polish? )
Click to expand...

If your a body shop guy it's gentle, if you're an enthusiast it's medium aggressive. As long as you're working clean, the paint is washed and dry, your hands are clean, your applicator is clean you won't have any problems. Working by hand does require good technique and that's hard to show with a keyboard.

I posted something about SwirlX yesterday in this thread,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...hers/22967-questions-using-7424xp-swirlx.html


Look for the paragraph that uses the term, "Bubba-Proof"



NA709 said:
Couple other things, I plan on using microfiber applicator pads instead of foam for the waxes/cleaner/polish stages. I also, plan to use 3M painters tape around the seals/lights/etc., is that safe for clear coats?
Click to expand...

Microfiber applicators and 3M Painter's tape are both safe for clear coats as long as you use them with common sense. When you're applying any product with ANY applicator pad, frequently turn the pad over and inspect the working face for any particulates.


zinc02gt said:
Attempting correction by hand will be (in my eyes) a complete waste of time and money. You won't get the correction you want. To get a black car looking it's best it WILL require a machine.
Click to expand...

I agree. Clear coats last a long time but that's not the same as look good a long time.

I've probably written more on removing swirls and scratches with the typed word than anyone and I'm going to guess I've probably either demonstrated and taught first hand more people how to work on clear coats by hand and machine, (not bragging but this was and still is my job description), and clear coat paints are a challenge to polish by hand, even if you good at it, let along if it's not your field of expertise.

Check these threads out...


Man versus Machine

What it means to remove swirls, scratches and water spots out of automotive clear coats


The practical differences between single stage paints and a clear coat paints


Finger Marks



Here's the skinny...

If you're not too big on maintaining a 100% swirl free finish, then keep it simple and just wash, clay, polish with the SwirlX and then seal with the Duragloss and after that always wash by hand and use good technique with high quality products.

Most swirls build up over time from washing and drying with lesser quality products and bad technique.

If you really want the paint to look show room new most or all of the time then you might want to look into machine polishing down the road.

:)
 
To the OP, (Original Poster),

I've read comments like the one below so many times in my life, he pretty much hit the nail on the head...

bodavenport said:
+10 on needing a machine. I have always had black cars (mustangs and one prelude) and am known for keeping them clean. Once I bit the bullet and bought a PC it is like night and day comparing what my cars used to look like and what they look like today. I probably spend more time now because of the results you can get with a PC. I am getting ready to upgrade to the Griot's machine in a month or so. Go ahead and get the machine you will not be sorry, oh and check out the products on here and other dedicated detail sights as the quality is way above what you can usually get OTC.
Click to expand...


For people new to machine polishing, the Wolfgang Twins are very easy to use and get great results from using a DA Polisher.

See this thread,


How to choose the right polisher for your detailing project



But again, I don't want it to sound like you have to have a DA Polisher, or a Flex 3401 or a Cyclo to maintain your car's finish, it's just easier physically and a lot more effective to remove defects by machine than it is to remove them by hand.


:)
 
mike,

you are the man! thanks for the information and the links. really great stuff.

i am not looking for the car show shine to show off to people. i just want to have a good looking shiny car that is protected. i think i am going to attempt this project by hand with some beers ( for me of course, not the car)

In a weird way I am looking extremely forward to the work ahead! I think down the line, i will pick up a polishing machine from AG as everyone as recommended.

When you say swirl X is a "medium aggressive" , it isnt going to eat up my clear coat over time if i use it twice a year will it?

And what the hell is DuraGloss 105? They label it as a cleaner/polish---but isnt it a wax (sealant)?? Or is it another abrasive polish like swirl x?

would you recommend dg105 or nxt 2.0?

Just to confirm, the Swirl X is buffed into the car and then removed immediately while the wax/sealant is applied to the vehicle to let settle/dry then buffed off?

i am sorry for all the newb questions.

i really do appreciate the help, thanks guys and gals!

-na7
 
NA709 said:
mike,

you are the man! thanks for the information and the links. really great stuff.

i am not looking for the car show shine to show off to people. i just want to have a good looking shiny car that is protected. i think i am going to attempt this project by hand with some beers ( for me of course, not the car)

In a weird way I am looking extremely forward to the work ahead! I think down the line, i will pick up a polishing machine from AG as everyone as recommended.

When you say swirl X is a "medium aggressive" , it isnt going to eat up my clear coat over time if i use it twice a year will it?

And what the hell is DuraGloss 105? They label it as a cleaner/polish---but isnt it a wax (sealant)?? Or is it another abrasive polish like swirl x?

would you recommend dg105 or nxt 2.0?

Just to confirm, the Swirl X is buffed into the car and then removed immediately while the wax/sealant is applied to the vehicle to let settle/dry then buffed off?

i am sorry for all the newb questions.

i really do appreciate the help, thanks guys and gals!

-na7
Click to expand...


I don't think you can actually damage clearcoat doing anything by hand being that your hand can't generate enough heat to harm anything. I'm sure somebody has found a way to mess up paint by hand, but those are few and extreme cases. Same goes with a DA. Most are fool proof. It's only the people who are misinformed who make the bad mistakes.

Just go with the Klasse High Gloss Sealant or Poorboy's EX-P. The NXT paste wax is a good OTC product though.

Buff the polish off, then wax.
 
NA709 said:
When you say swirl X is a "medium aggressive" , it isnt going to eat up my clear coat over time if i use it twice a year will it?
Click to expand...

In the link I provided above, here's what I wrote pertaining to "Bubba-Proof"

Mike Phillips said:
Also take comfort in that when Meguiar's launches a product in their Consumer Line, and especially any product for use by machine on a scratch-sensitive clear coat finish they have tested it and tested until it's 100% "Bubba-Proof".

SwirlX is very easy to work with and as long as you work clean you won't experience any problems.
Click to expand...

SwirlX uses SMAT = Super Micro Abrasive Technology and one of the features of this type of abrasive technology is that it's only as aggressive as you work it. For light cleaning, apply it lightly or gently and only for a short period of time. For more aggressive cleaning, apply it with more pressure or by machine.

Just to note, when you're working by hand you're only going to be working an area about 12 to 16 inches square. You don't tackle large sections at a time. You can tackle large section when you apply a wax or sealant after a product like SwirlX but not when working a product like SwirlX. It has to do with paint hardness and effectiveness.



NA709 said:
And what the hell is DuraGloss 105? They label it as a cleaner/polish---but isnt it a wax (sealant)?? Or is it another abrasive polish like swirl x?
Click to expand...

Ah ha... a use for the new article I'm working on... here's where I've placed it according to the available information on the product.


Hybrid Cleaner Waxes/Sealants
Duragloss Total Performance Polish (TPP) # 105



NA709 said:
would you recommend dg105 or nxt 2.0?
Click to expand...

As for a waxes and paint sealants, I don't tend to like to make specific wax or sealant recommendations because it can lock me into a box I don't want to be in. Instead I like to say,

"Car waxes and paint sealants are to men like shoes are to women, you can never have too many" - Mike Phillips


Plan on buying one or two waxes or paint sealants a month and might as well start building a "Wax Rack", kind of like a "Shoe Rack" only unlike shoes in a closet, maybe find a nice wall in the living room to display your collection.

:D


NA709 said:
Just to confirm, the Swirl X is buffed into the car and then removed immediately while the wax/sealant is applied to the vehicle to let settle/dry then buffed off?

Yes, small sections at a time and when you start a new section overlap a little into the previous section.

i am sorry for all the newb questions.

i really do appreciate the help, thanks guys and gals!

-na7
Click to expand...
 
mike,

thanks for all the great info.

i am excited to roll up the sleeves. I figure as long as I use my common sense---i can't mess this up too much. Might as well dive right in;)

once again, thanks to everyone.

-NA709
 
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