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1965Mustang
New member
- Dec 16, 2012
- 21
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I have followed this thread and read several more but I am still confused as to product and sequence of use. Could any of you much more knowledgeable than me please help? This is what I have and most recently just purchased: Pinnacle Ultra-Poly Clay bar and lube (I know to use this first). Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish, Meguiar's 21 Sealant, Meguiar's 7, and my old products Wet Obsessions Brazilian Ivory Wax, Obsessive Detail Wet Glaze Gloss Enhancer. Any help is much appreciated.
a g thang
New member
- Dec 31, 2012
- 270
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Clay as you know then ultimate compound, then pinnacle finishing polish, megs 7 or ur detail wet glaze, megs 21, ur ivory wax in that order hope this helps!!!
This.
If you use the cyan hydrotech pad, you may even be able to skip the finishing polish depending on your defects and paint hardness. I would usually recommend following up with a polish anyways since it's a pretty aggressive compound, but it finishes VERY nicely with the cyan HT on some paints.
1965Mustang
New member
- Dec 16, 2012
- 21
- 0
Thanks much. I appreciate the "How to Wax for Dummies" advice. I'll give it a try. All I ever used until I found this forum was the compound and the wax I had. Now I have so much info I stay totally confused. I will give this a try.
1965Mustang
New member
- Dec 16, 2012
- 21
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The only pads I currently have are most of the Lake Country CCS pads. Is this pad something I need to add to my arsenal or will one of the others I have that will work as good? Thanks.
cardaddy
New member
- Nov 20, 2012
- 3,937
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On the clay, make sure you fold it and knead it often. Work from the top down, saving the dirtiest sections till last. And, make sure to keep it lubricated. It doesn't have to be so wet that it just slips all over, but you don't want to leave clay trails everywhere either.
The Ultimate Compound would come next, followed usually by Ultimate Polish, but the Pinnacle will do just fine.
Next is the M21 that you can put on with a black or blue CCS pad. Prime the pad, set the speed to 2 ~ 3 and put a THIN coat on. Let it dry for at least 15 minutes and take it off by hand.
There really isn't a need for M7 as it is a very temporary glaze that has no long standing durability. The M21 otoh will last and in fact if you let it dry another 30 minutes at least after you wiped it off, (up to overnight even) you can add a second coat. One product that works great with all the other "ultimate" items is the wax, liquid or paste is fine. Mainly because it is a polymer/carnuba synthetic and binds well with the other products.
That being said, your existing wax will do just fine, no problems. When putting it over the polymer products I like to wait overnight and do it the next day, giving the M21 a chance for all the base carrier chemicals to dry and give it a stronger bond. That's just me however and who knows if it actually makes a difference. :dunno:
There has been a lot of discussion on CCS pads both pro and con. Personally I like them, along with flat pads. They all have a use in your arsenal. The key is having some spray pad cleaner on hand as well as a good pad cleaning program. Some use nothing but Dawn, I use Snappy Clean and Dawn keeping a bucket of Snappy Clean handy to throw the pads in while working.
You also need to make sure you have enough pads to accomplish you goals. If you don't need yellows then there is no reason to have half a dozen of them just sitting there. But... as you've already noticed, do your test spot! That will require at least one of each pad to figure out what you're going to need down the road.
The benefit is (for the home user) after you do your first big correction you may not need pads that agressive again. But if you find after your test spot that you can get bay with orange, say you start with orange and it works well with your compound then you'll need at least half a dozen to get a vehicle completed. Thing is, that same pad may work for your first run of a polish as well and if it's what you're using then you'll need even more of them. (Likely orange wouldn't do dual-duty like this but white certainly will.)
Basically the bulk of your pads will be in the 3 colors you use most, like at least 6 of each. From there, the higher you go on the finishing order (IE the less agressive cut in your polish/glaze/wax etc) the less pads you'll need as they don't have to work as hard. It's always good to have a couple extra of even the ones you don't use often plus you don't want to cross contaminate your compound in the same pads as your polish. Just as you don't want to mix your polish with your polymer sealant or with your carnuba wax.
Hope that helps a bit.
cwebb
New member
- Feb 2, 2013
- 46
- 0
What did you think of Element 119 and did you ever try Gtechniq
I am not Bobby but System X from Element 119 is a good coating, I did not like the Infinite gloss.
1965Mustang
New member
- Dec 16, 2012
- 21
- 0
On the clay, make sure you fold it and knead it often. Work from the top down, saving the dirtiest sections till last. And, make sure to keep it lubricated. It doesn't have to be so wet that it just slips all over, but you don't want to leave clay trails everywhere either.
The Ultimate Compound would come next, followed usually by Ultimate Polish, but the Pinnacle will do just fine.
Next is the M21 that you can put on with a black or blue CCS pad. Prime the pad, set the speed to 2 ~ 3 and put a THIN coat on. Let it dry for at least 15 minutes and take it off by
hand.
There really isn't a need for M7 as it is a very temporary glaze that has no long standing durability. The M21 otoh will last and in fact if you let it dry another 30 minutes at least after you wiped it off, (up to overnight even) you can add a second coat. One product that works great with all the other "ultimate" items is the wax, liquid or paste is fine. Mainly because it is a polymer/carnuba synthetic and binds well with the other products.
That being said, your existing wax will do just fine, no problems. When putting it over the polymer products I like to wait overnight and do it the next day, giving the M21 a chance for all the base carrier chemicals to dry and give it a stronger bond. That's just me however and who knows if it actually makes a difference. :dunno:
There has been a lot of discussion on CCS pads both pro and con. Personally I like them, along with flat pads. They all have a use in your arsenal. The key is having some spray pad cleaner on hand as well as a good pad cleaning program. Some use nothing but Dawn, I use Snappy Clean and Dawn keeping a bucket of Snappy Clean handy to throw the pads in while working.
You also need to make sure you have enough pads to accomplish you goals. If you don't need yellows then there is no reason to have half a dozen of them just sitting there. But... as you've already noticed, do your test spot! That will require at least one of each pad to figure out what you're going to need down the road.
The benefit is (for the home user) after you do your first big correction you may not need pads that agressive again. But if you find after your test spot that you can get bay with orange, say you start with orange and it works well with your compound then you'll need at least half a dozen to get a vehicle completed. Thing is, that same pad may work for your first run of a polish as well and if it's what you're using then you'll need even more of them. (Likely orange wouldn't do dual-duty like this but white certainly will.)
Basically the bulk of your pads will be in the 3 colors you use most, like at least 6 of each. From there, the higher you go on the finishing order (IE the less agressive cut in your polish/glaze/wax etc) the less pads you'll need as they don't have to work as hard. It's always good to have a couple extra of even the ones you don't use often plus you don't want to cross contaminate your compound in the same pads as your polish. Just as you don't want to mix your polish with your polymer sealant or with your carnuba wax.
Hope that helps a bit.
You cannot imagine how much I appreciate you taking the time to write all this down. This is extremely helpful and I am sure all the new guys reading and trying to learn will find this extremely helpful. I have printed it out and added it to my detail book. Thanks very much. Have a great day. Now all the work is on me.
MarkD51
Active member
- Oct 15, 2012
- 3,130
- 0
Are you referring to Ultima Paint Guard Plus? (UPGP)
So far, I have used three WOWA Sealants, UPGP, Optimum Opti Seal, and Wolfgang Liquid Seal. (Haven't used a lot of the WGLS just yet)
This is of course my opinion, and others, or your mileage may vary? I have also not done controlled testing side by side, so my conclusions may be in error somewhat?
Of the three, the UPGP seems like a different product than the other two, a different technology perhaps, seems to me more like one of these so called "super sealants", seemed to add a visually thicker coating than the other two, added higher gloss.
Another quality I note, UPGP will clog up a sprayer head mighty quick, after one useage I found, whereas the other two do not.
The UPGP I found seemed a little more difficult to work with, but upon my initial use of the product, I no doubt applied it a little bit too liberally. None the less, there was no permanent "foul", and did a wipe with a clean MF towel an hour after application, and the finish looked perfect, and looked even.
The UPGP is a really nice product I think, I like it quite a bit, and will most likely buy more of it in the future. I really like this WOWA, makes things like treating Door Jambs, under Hood, Trunk-Tailgate, and other hard to get to areas ultra easy, and fast.
Hope none have minded my comments. Mark
Showroom Shine
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- Apr 19, 2007
- 860
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For clients that want Top Shelf LSP!
Black Fire Sealant, Souveran Paste!
Black Fire Sealant, Souveran Paste!
Detail-Impressions
New member
- Aug 22, 2011
- 327
- 0
Cured Opti Coat then topped with Chemical Guys V7
Meticulous-Detail
New member
- Nov 15, 2011
- 1,905
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I have only used it once on my grabber blue Shelby and really like it. Did 3 coats 45 mins apart, paint looked awesome. A bud that has a grabber blue 5.0 said to me ( I didn't tell him what products I used) "Why does your paint look like it has an extra layer of clear and gloss then mine".
