Difficulty with Meg's MF System

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MK6Jetta

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So today I used the Meg's MF system on my 2011 VW Jetta (Tornado Red). Right from the get go, the D300 Correction Compound was very, very difficult to remove. Seriously, it was like trying to remove dried spackle. I was breaking a sweat trying to buff it off with my microfiber. Does anybody have any thoughts as to what might have been causing this or is that the nature of the D300 compound? I've been thinking about this all night now and the only possible explanation I can come up with is the mf towel I was using to buff off the D300. It isn't the newest one in my arsenal and the knap is pretty short.

Few details...prepped car by washing with Dawn. Rinsed then covered entire car with Meg's APC dilluted 4:1 and let that dwell for 5-10 minutes. Rinsed and then rewashed car with Dawn a second time and dried with a waffle weave mf. Worked in garage out of the sun. Nice day in Metro Detroit...65-ish and not too humid.



I've been a long timer lurker and I've read as many postings and watched as many videos on the Meg's system as I can so I am fairly confident that that I used it properly. I had no issues at all with the D301 finishing wax, but I reserved my nicest mf towel for buffing that off. Any input would be appreciated.
 
You might not have worked it long enough. Although I've never had a problem with it, if you applied too much to the pad, you would have to work it longer. The key with this system is, once you have primed the pad, use very little product. I use two pea sized dots on the pad after it is primed. Also, make sure you clean the pad after each panel. Can I ask what towel you tried to buff it off with also? If it was too plush, that can cause an issue.
 
I have used D300 quite a few times with no problems. I have found it to be one of the easiest compounds to remove when worked properly. In all honesty to me it sounds like you were using to much product. But it is only a guess. I to use a short nap MF to remove my polishes.
 
I havent had any issues. How long did you let it dry before removing. That is all I can figure.
 
Hmmm, you might be onto something. I primed the pad and was using 4 pea size dots per panel. I was however taking care to clean the pad with a brush after each panel. I can't recall the brand of mf I was using but they definatley had a short knap. Might be a dumb question but how can you gage if you've worked the D300 long enough? This was the first time I've used it but I've used the D301 as an AIO on a few other cars.
 
You shouldn't see any white or pink coloring left. It uses SMAT (super micro abrasive technology), but it will still turn to an almost clear color. You can keep working it from then on, but that is when it makes it easiest to wipe off.
 
Old Tiger said:
I havent had any issues. How long did you let it dry before removing. That is all I can figure.
Click to expand...

Just a minute or two. How long do you let the D300 sit before you take it off? I'm getting the feeling that perhaps I used to much D300 AND didn't let it sit long enough on the car.

On a side not, I didn't get quite the amount of correction I was hoping for. Wonder if that is tied in to the above?
 
MK6Jetta said:
Just a minute or two. How long do you let the D300 sit before you take it off? I'm getting the feeling that perhaps I used to much D300 AND didn't let it sit long enough on the car.

On a side not, I didn't get quite the amount of correction I was hoping for. Wonder if that is tied in to the above?
Click to expand...

It definitely is. The longer you work it, the more clear you remove, thus the better the amount of correction. D300 shouldn't be left to sit. It isn't a wax or sealant and doesn't need time to cure. It can be removed immediately just like any other compound or polish unless it is an AIO.
 
IOMCAMARO said:
It definitely is. The longer you work it, the more clear you remove, thus the better the amount of correction. D300 shouldn't be left to sit. It isn't a wax or sealant and doesn't need time to cure. It can be removed immediately just like any other compound or polish unless it is an AIO.
Click to expand...

Well, after reading all the speedy replies (thanks everybody, really appreciate it :xyxthumbs:) think I'll chalk this up to:

1. too much product
2. didn't work it long enough

The joys of being a newb...............:)
 
Don't worry about it, newbs always use too much product. With most products, less is more.
 
I noticed you didn't mention claying your vehicle. It says you washed twice, and then went to compound (according to your post). If you didn't clay...that could very well be your issue.

Otherwise...I usually make about 3 strong passes, and a couple low pressure passes. Like someone else mentioned...you have to work the compound till it turns real thin. You'll see all the color go away, and you'll be left with almost appears to be like a thin layer of sealant. Usually when you break the product down to this point...it's ready to wipe clean. Trying to wipe it too early will definitely be a pain for you.

You also may be applying too much product. The correction compound has quite a bit of spread time...so try less.
 
you can always watch the video on the system,its pretty spot on.
 
I used the Megs D300 and cutting disk all day yesterday to correct my paint. What an amazing, clean, and fast system !!! I'm blown away with it. I love how neat and clean the MF pads do around tough areas and emblems. The MF basically cleans up its own mess as you work in areas where polish is known to buildup.

The D300 was very easy to work in and removed with absolute ease. No trace residue or any messy dried up compound.

If your having trouble removing the product is for sure comes down to the 2 major problems of :
1- Not breaking down the compound and working it long enough. Yes, D300 use's SMAT technology, but all the of the carriers and lubricants are made to keep the liquid wet and get you through the buffing cycle while still holding up. The liquid, and lubricants need to be broken down and it will wipe off easily.

2- too much product being used. You need to prime the pad , so the entire face is red. Then take a towel and wipe off all of the compound off the pad so that all that is left is the red residue. Then make either 2 pea sized drops, or 4 very small pea sized drops. and go from there.

This is a product where the instructions on the back of the bottle are spot on. Work it in with moderate pressure for 3 passes, than make 2 more passes with light pressure.

Work around speed 4 on whatever machine your using. I have tried it with the PC and the GG and both like to be used at speed 4 or 4.5. On the GG I use 4, on the PC i use 4.5.

The one thing I actually like about the D300 is how mild it can be. Its not that potent of a compound and IMO works more like a medium polish. If comparing to Menzerna, as far as defect removal, I would compare to either SIP or a tad stronger than Power Finish.

For the tough areas that were beaten up bad (the rear of my car), I needed more cut, So i mixed 50/50 with M105 on the pad. I saw the suggestion on the site lastweek, and it worked fantastic. Hardly dusts and improved cut by about 20%.
 
I've found that D300 is easiest to remove when following Meguiar's instructions. Once your pad is primed use only a small amount of compound each time afterward. I use four small dots usually.

When polishing I make 3 passes with a generous amount of pressure with my PC on speed 4.5 making sure I'm not using too much pressure to the point that the pad stops rotating. I then follow up by doing two more passes with a very light amount of pressure which causes the pad to rotate quite a bit.

I haven't really done a ton of testing but when I noticed yesterday when I using these kinds of passes if I strayed from following up with the two light pressure passes it seemed to be more difficult to remove D300.

Just a thought!
 
As others have mentioned, D300 is one of the easiet, cleanest wipeoffs of any polish/compound I've ever used. I did have one-head-scratching occurance where I couldn't get it to wipe off no matter what I did. From your comments it doesn't appear your situation is similar.

I was working in the early evening in the garage with the door open. Moderate humidity, 70-ish degrees. As the sun was setting I moved to a panel at the rear of the car nearest the garage door D300 became as dry and miserable as M105 at it's worst. I was perplexed as up until then everything was working sweet and easy as usual. I changed to a clean, primed pad, switched to different towels, tried a spritz of M34 for the wipeoff... weird! I inspected the panel closely thinking it may have been a repaint and saw nothing that indicated the finish on this panel was any different than any of the others. I finally gave up and decided to give it another go in the morning.

Next morning around 9am the sun was out bright, still around 70 degrees so I opened the garage door and before picking up the polisher gave the bit of residue left on the panel overnight a wipe and it came off clean and easy as it usually did. The rest of the polishing session went smooth without any problem whatsoever.

I concluded that as the sun set and the night cooled off raising the relative humidity it affected the D300 removal. Only explanation I could come up with since it was the only variable.

TL
 
btw, working the product for too long will also cause it to dry up on the paint. To remove the product apply some D300 onto a wax applicator and rub it into the dried spot.
 
D300 should be one of the easiest compound you've ever used. The tips above a pretty much spot on too. Here is a video to show how well this stuff works and just how easy it is to use. :props:

D300 test spot - YouTube
 
mg6045 said:
I used the Megs D300 and cutting disk all day yesterday to correct my paint. What an amazing, clean, and fast system !!! I'm blown away with it. I love how neat and clean the MF pads do around tough areas and emblems. The MF basically cleans up its own mess as you work in areas where polish is known to buildup.

The D300 was very easy to work in and removed with absolute ease. No trace residue or any messy dried up compound.

If your having trouble removing the product is for sure comes down to the 2 major problems of :
1- Not breaking down the compound and working it long enough. Yes, D300 use's SMAT technology, but all the of the carriers and lubricants are made to keep the liquid wet and get you through the buffing cycle while still holding up. The liquid, and lubricants need to be broken down and it will wipe off easily.

2- too much product being used. You need to prime the pad , so the entire face is red. Then take a towel and wipe off all of the compound off the pad so that all that is left is the red residue. Then make either 2 pea sized drops, or 4 very small pea sized drops. and go from there.

This is a product where the instructions on the back of the bottle are spot on. Work it in with moderate pressure for 3 passes, than make 2 more passes with light pressure.

Work around speed 4 on whatever machine your using. I have tried it with the PC and the GG and both like to be used at speed 4 or 4.5. On the GG I use 4, on the PC i use 4.5.

The one thing I actually like about the D300 is how mild it can be. Its not that potent of a compound and IMO works more like a medium polish. If comparing to Menzerna, as far as defect removal, I would compare to either SIP or a tad stronger than Power Finish.

For the tough areas that were beaten up bad (the rear of my car), I needed more cut, So i mixed 50/50 with M105 on the pad. I saw the suggestion on the site lastweek, and it worked fantastic. Hardly dusts and improved cut by about 20%.
Click to expand...
First time you've used the MF system? It's the best! I use M105 with the MF cutting discs more than D300.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
First time you've used the MF system? It's the best! I use M105 with the MF cutting discs more than D300.
Click to expand...

Yep first time I've used both the D300 and D301. Used the D301 several times on a few different cars and didn't have any problems. But this was my first shot at compounding/correction with the D300.

Think I have it figured out now, as far as where I went wrong. I may have said this before but I really appreciate the feedback from everybody. I've been a long time lurker and try to get to the bottom of things myself, but its refreshing to have some of you more advanced guys help out a newb such as me.
 
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