Super soft re-paint troubles

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Ive been working on this black camaro repaint the last 2 days. The clear is SO soft that even 205 on a polishing pad hazes with the Flex. I had to use Menzernas 106 FA on a foam finishing pad with the makita set on 900 RPMs to get haze free...its that soft. Even a higher setting on such a soft pad and mild polish would haze.

MOST of the car is very good, still have a sanding tracer here and there that the painters left, but id say 90% of the car is 99% corrected.

Here's the thing, a couple areas, especially the drivers door..just are not coming out. Ive gone as harsh as 105 on a polishing pad, 4" pad that is...to cut it, and it hazes all to hell. I have to do 2 or 3 steps after to get it to clear, and it STILL has sanding tracers left.

I dont know what to do. Normally i'd just go to 105, makita and a cutting pad and knock it flat, but this paint is SOOOO soft, i'm scared to go that route.

I also, on this panel only, keep seeing circular little marks after the FA and foam pad on the makita. I dont know if I"M messing up, maybe my pad is contaminated?...or if these are still just left over sanding marks from the painter that i'm just simply not going aggressive enough to remove? I tried changing pads...cleaning the face of the pad...but still these marks are there.

I had the same marks show up on a couple smaller areas when i used the makita with 3" Griots pads and 106 FA, but a follow up pass with the flex on a foam pad cleared it right up.

Ive NEVER run into this much trouble....honestly i wonder if it is just due to how the painters mixed their clear with hardener...or lack there of, but im not a painter and really dont know.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

thanks all
 
Wills!!! How ironic you mention this. I'm in the exact same boat. I'm working on a re-painted black Chevy tahoe. I cannot get it marr-free for the life of me. It's not necessarily haze that I'm having trouble with, it's this type of marring....

photo1-4.jpg
 
Rotary, pinnacle advance finishing polish, red hydro tech pad, 2-3 passes 1200 rpm 2-3 passes 900 rpm light pressure, as far as the tracers wet sand them then polish out your marks, it builds less heat and you can control your progress better if you know how to sand by hand, mike has a few good articles on it
 
Put a microfiber bonett over your pad, or trap a piece of microfiber in between the pad and paint, mist the microfiber with distilled water and hit it with either 106fa or 85rd etc.
 
I would also say wet sand the tracers out and then polish out. Assuming that the sanding tracers are in the clear and not below it...just a thought depending on the painters you never know.

Don't know if you have it available but Poli-seal and a gray or green lc pad is great at finishing out soft clear coats. I worked on a 66 Vette that had been repainted black. The paint was so soft that just touching the paint with my softest MF marred it.
 
Wills!!! How ironic you mention this. I'm in the exact same boat. I'm working on a re-painted black Chevy tahoe. I cannot get it marr-free for the life of me. It's not necessarily haze that I'm having trouble with, it's this type of marring....

photo1-4.jpg

The haze i got out but yes marring similar to that is what i ran into with the door. Are you going with a rotary or DA and getting that effect?
 
Try 105 on a finishing pad. I know it sounds crazy but it worked for me when I was dealing with super soft black paint.
 
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