Audi S5- Ceramic Clear...My Personal Nightmare

Mastercraft241

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Funny how that goes.... I'm having trouble correcting my own car. I correct friends/customers cars without a problem, but for some reason my own car seems to be giving me trouble. It seems as if nothing will cut. I've tried the following, FG400 on a mf pad, FG400 on a yellow uber pad, M101 on mf pad, D300 on a mf pad. Nothing has been able to provide more than 60% correction. Some of the defects appear to be RIDS, but it looks like it's all over the car. Im not sure what else I could do. I've been spinning my Rupes 21LHR at around 5 and doing my usual slow section passes, between 4-5 passes. Im not sure I can do much more. I've watched some correction videos on audi's today to pump me up enough to give it another try when I get home. It always looks good under the swirl finder in the garage (because the car is white), but once I pull it out im just like, F$%K that was a waste of time.
 
Do you have a PTG? If you aren't removing much material after your 4-5 passes, then you may need to compound the entire car twice to produce the results you are after.
 
Have you got a rotary by chance? Sometimes that's your only option on really hard clearcoats.

I'm not too familiar with ceramiclear though. Maybe someone with more experience can chime in?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online
 
Do you have a PTG? If you aren't removing much material after your 4-5 passes, then you may need to compound the entire car twice to produce the results you are after.
Unfortunatley I do not. It is on my list of next purchases though. For now, I abide by doing my test spots and starting with the least aggresive compound/finishing polish. I was thinking M101 on a mf pad followed by FG400 or PF 4/6 on an Orange Uber pad?
Have you got a rotary by chance? Sometimes that's your only option on really hard clearcoats.

I'm not too familiar with ceramiclear though. Maybe someone with more experience can chime in?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online
Maybe i'm ignorant, but I just do not think using a rotary on a car is worth the risk. I keep my Makita to gel coat use only :props:
 
Funny how that goes.... I'm having trouble correcting my own car. I correct friends/customers cars without a problem, but for some reason my own car seems to be giving me trouble. It seems as if nothing will cut. I've tried the following, FG400 on a mf pad, FG400 on a yellow uber pad, M101 on mf pad, D300 on a mf pad. Nothing has been able to provide more than 60% correction. Some of the defects appear to be RIDS, but it looks like it's all over the car. Im not sure what else I could do. I've been spinning my Rupes 21LHR at around 5 and doing my usual slow section passes, between 4-5 passes. Im not sure I can do much more. I've watched some correction videos on audi's today to pump me up enough to give it another try when I get home. It always looks good under the swirl finder in the garage (because the car is white), but once I pull it out im just like, F$%K that was a waste of time.

Might need to sand. 3000 grit for a few passes maybe?
 
Not ignorant, just cautious.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online
 
I have a 2004 a6. I have always had to use a red microfiber pad with m105, m205 does near nothing
 
Funny how that goes.... I'm having trouble correcting my own car. I correct friends/customers cars without a problem, but for some reason my own car seems to be giving me trouble. It seems as if nothing will cut. I've tried the following, FG400 on a mf pad, FG400 on a yellow uber pad, M101 on mf pad, D300 on a mf pad. Nothing has been able to provide more than 60% correction. Some of the defects appear to be RIDS, but it looks like it's all over the car. Im not sure what else I could do. I've been spinning my Rupes 21LHR at around 5 and doing my usual slow section passes, between 4-5 passes. Im not sure I can do much more. I've watched some correction videos on audi's today to pump me up enough to give it another try when I get home. It always looks good under the swirl finder in the garage (because the car is white), but once I pull it out im just like, F$%K that was a waste of time.


Hey man,

Got your PM. First thing i'd say is, are you sure you still have swirls...or are you actually being left with really bad marring from your compound?

Stay with me on this...the reason i ask is because i recently had another forum member call me who was having trouble with ceramic clear on a Benz, and i went through everything with him...he had even sanded and pulled out the sanding marks...so i asked if he had done a test spot..he said yes...but got nothing to matter what he tried...i was stumped.

Well 2 days later i spoke to him...and it wasnt swirls that was left, it was sever marring, after he POLISHED the area...it glossed up and was nice and clear....so check for that first.


Secondly - this ties into the 1st part...work a test area...dont hop all over the car...you gotta dial that process in and it might take a damn long time, but try to figure it out. I saw you were cranking on speed 5...i usually dont have to go over speed 3.5-4. And since a lot of the 21's power is from MOMENTUM, a larger pad may actually help you get BETTER cut...its kinda like swinging a ball and chain around...sure a smaller ball will swing around faster...but a bigger ball will pack more power because its swing around so much more mass...the difference between a 5.5" pad and a 6" or 6.5" pad might not seem like much, but it really is quite significant.

The slower speed will keep the compound from drying up too quickly and thus caking up and not working at its full potential. Often times a mist or 2 of water can really help extend the buffing cycle.

Third, are you keeping your pad clean? 101 is some very aggressive compound, its what i used on the S5 we just did...and it worked very well, but i had to clean my pad CONSTANTLY. If you dont, residue and clear will build up and you can marr the whole hell out of the finish, so much so that it'll look like its still swirled, but in fact you're actually just inducing them yourself.

Also, do you have an LED light or just a brinkmann type light or what? Working with white can be a PITA, sometimes TOO Much light will actually flood out the paint and you cant see a damn thing..hold that light back quite a ways and then closer...find the sweet spot that lets you really see what defects are there.

Lastly, be sure you PRIME your pad via Kevin Brown Method. Not sure if you are or not but, it can really increase your cut (if the actual problem here is the fact you're not getting enough cut).

It's funny because i was JUST finishing my write up on the S5 we did when i got your PM, here is the link to it, maybe you'll find something in it that will help?

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...int-correction-cquartz-finest.html#post958054

If you have any other questions just let me know, i'd be more than happy to try to assist.
 
Hey man,

Got your PM. First thing i'd say is, are you sure you still have swirls...or are you actually being left with really bad marring from your compound?

Stay with me on this...the reason i ask is because i recently had another forum member call me who was having trouble with ceramic clear on a Benz, and i went through everything with him...he had even sanded and pulled out the sanding marks...so i asked if he had done a test spot..he said yes...but got nothing to matter what he tried...i was stumped.

Well 2 days later i spoke to him...and it wasnt swirls that was left, it was sever marring, after he POLISHED the area...it glossed up and was nice and clear....so check for that first.


Secondly - this ties into the 1st part...work a test area...dont hop all over the car...you gotta dial that process in and it might take a damn long time, but try to figure it out. I saw you were cranking on speed 5...i usually dont have to go over speed 3.5-4. And since a lot of the 21's power is from MOMENTUM, a larger pad may actually help you get BETTER cut...its kinda like swinging a ball and chain around...sure a smaller ball will swing around faster...but a bigger ball will pack more power because its swing around so much more mass...the difference between a 5.5" pad and a 6" or 6.5" pad might not seem like much, but it really is quite significant.

The slower speed will keep the compound from drying up too quickly and thus caking up and not working at its full potential. Often times a mist or 2 of water can really help extend the buffing cycle.

Third, are you keeping your pad clean? 101 is some very aggressive compound, its what i used on the S5 we just did...and it worked very well, but i had to clean my pad CONSTANTLY. If you dont, residue and clear will build up and you can marr the whole hell out of the finish, so much so that it'll look like its still swirled, but in fact you're actually just inducing them yourself.

Also, do you have an LED light or just a brinkmann type light or what? Working with white can be a PITA, sometimes TOO Much light will actually flood out the paint and you cant see a damn thing..hold that light back quite a ways and then closer...find the sweet spot that lets you really see what defects are there.

Lastly, be sure you PRIME your pad via Kevin Brown Method. Not sure if you are or not but, it can really increase your cut (if the actual problem here is the fact you're not getting enough cut).

It's funny because i was JUST finishing my write up on the S5 we did when i got your PM, here is the link to it, maybe you'll find something in it that will help?

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...int-correction-cquartz-finest.html#post958054

If you have any other questions just let me know, i'd be more than happy to try to assist.


Thanks for your response will. So I went ahead and tried again, this time instead of using 5, I used settings 3-4. I also started to tape lines for my areas as it is very difficult with this white to see where your definitive lines are. So, M101 with a microfiber pad between 3-4, followed by IPA wipe down, followed up with PF 4/6 with an orange uber pad(medium cut), again IPE wipe down, and Blackfire Black Ice (since I was curious). I think my issue may be solved. I tackled the drivers door, rear drivers quarter panel, bumper, truck, and hood. I'll get the rest tomorrow. Ignore the little bit of lint left over. Not sure why that towel was linting.......

n7sl.jpg


21dx.jpg


g3vv.jpg
 
Thanks for your response will. So I went ahead and tried again, this time instead of using 5, I used settings 3-4. I also started to tape lines for my areas as it is very difficult with this white to see where your definitive lines are. So, M101 with a microfiber pad between 3-4, followed by IPA wipe down, followed up with PF 4/6 with an orange uber pad(medium cut), again IPE wipe down, and Blackfire Black Ice (since I was curious). I think my issue may be solved. I tackled the drivers door, rear drivers quarter panel, bumper, truck, and hood. I'll get the rest tomorrow. Ignore the little bit of lint left over. Not sure why that towel was linting.......

n7sl.jpg


21dx.jpg


g3vv.jpg


Looking much better my man! Towels lint, it happens lol...thats why we wash the car after the polishing is done :). Only ones ive found so far that have been consistently lint free (as long as i dont wash em' with other linty towels) are my Korean 460 gsm towels...i sell them to customers as well and they love em.


So what do you think was your hang up - were you able to pin point the issue exactly?
 
Looking much better my man! Towels lint, it happens lol...thats why we wash the car after the polishing is done :). Only ones ive found so far that have been consistently lint free (as long as i dont wash em' with other linty towels) are my Korean 460 gsm towels...i sell them to customers as well and they love em.


So what do you think was your hang up - were you able to pin point the issue exactly?
Thanks Will! I believe it was the speed setting to be honest. It'd hard to tell on a white car when the product has dried out since the light drowns out a lot of the effects. Slowing the speed from 5/6 to 3-4 gave m101 more working time and in turn more cutting abilities. The follow up with pf 4/6 helped as well as far as jewling and maybe catching any additional defects not originally caught with m101.
 
OP glad you figured it out. Car looks great in the photos. Furstrating when it seems like you've tried everything and still don't get your results. Nice fix running the polisher slower seems counter intuitive but works well with compounds.
 
Thanks Will! I believe it was the speed setting to be honest. It'd hard to tell on a white car when the product has dried out since the light drowns out a lot of the effects. Slowing the speed from 5/6 to 3-4 gave m101 more working time and in turn more cutting abilities. The follow up with pf 4/6 helped as well as far as jewling and maybe catching any additional defects not originally caught with m101.

Glad it worked out. Be careful on that 5/6 setting for final polishing...im sure its good on your white - but chances are that would just leave a ton of scouring on anything straight black or red. I'll usually dial down to 2.5/3 for my last polish and just basically "massage" out the light marring..most times my pad will be turning pretty slowly on the final polishing phase :)
 
Glad it worked out. Be careful on that 5/6 setting for final polishing...im sure its good on your white - but chances are that would just leave a ton of scouring on anything straight black or red. I'll usually dial down to 2.5/3 for my last polish and just basically "massage" out the light marring..most times my pad will be turning pretty slowly on the final polishing phase :)
Wow, I didnt know that Will! Never ceases to amaze me... you can always learn something new in detailing. I was under the impression to jewl the paint I needed to spin a higher RPM. You should consider starting a thread for simply and easy tricks:iagree:
 
Wow, I didnt know that Will! Never ceases to amaze me... you can always learn something new in detailing. I was under the impression to jewl the paint I needed to spin a higher RPM. You should consider starting a thread for simply and easy tricks:iagree:

Lol, well its tricks like that which mr Kevin Brown shared with me that have helped a lot...you still have to tinker with it sometimes and keeping the pad clean is always at the top of the priority list.

But yeah, Kevin Brown on his website BuffDaddy.com has a KBM link...quite a few nice tips and detailed explanations are in there if you actually take the time to read it. Its why i bought my rupes from him - not only did he initiate bringing Rupes to the US (yes, it was him, everyone else just jumped on the band wagon) but he knows more about it and does more to share what he's learned than most anyone. Ive talked to him many times on the phone, texted - etc...and he's always been a great help :)
 
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