Tape and where to put it

beamerstrumpet

beamerstrumpet

New member
Joined
Jun 14, 2013
Messages
1,031
Reaction score
0
OK,
I have read THE ART OF DETAILING a few times, read tons of post and I still have tape off, emblem, and decal questions.

First: Tape. OK when taping seams do I cover both pannels and just one and slide tape in the crack and over. How far do I need to go on windows? I know to go around emblems and trim. what may be too much and some not enough? I am still finding areas on my wife’s car where I thought I got rid of all the product from tape lines but keep seeing it here and there. ( I do cover the windshield with a old blanket)

Second: Emblem. Ok I have taken tape off from around it after main buffing. is it a finger tip job inside of them where the paint is visible (think Mercedes or Audi) and then painstakingly get the seams?

Third: Emblems and decals. Are they clear coated over? Wish it was old school and the GT stripes were actually painted on and not decals or wraps. Are these just done gently by hand? Is there spray just for them?

Ok I held out as long as I could before asking all this. Thanks for any helpful answers.
 
Tape anywhere you see unpainted plastic, all body lines, and all areas you will not be polishing. Unpainted plastic will stain. Body lines will accumulate polish residue. Mike P's recommendation on using a beach towel for the windshield is a great idea also.

detail11.jpg


detail14.jpg
 
I'm currently using 3M blue painter's tape. Does anyone else have a problem with it leaving a line after removal? I have to buff away where the product meets the tape line after I remove it.
 
Same problem here. Very annoying, actually. I now skip the tape entirely and simply allow myself approximately an inch between the spinning pad and the perimeter of the areas i'd normally tape off; a perfectionist's nightmare!

Maybe someone has a tip to avoid this problem?
 
04Golf said:
I'm currently using 3M blue painter's tape. Does anyone else have a problem with it leaving a line after removal? I have to buff away where the product meets the tape line after I remove it.
Click to expand...

How long are you leaving the tape on before removing it?
 
What is the idea behind the tape? I can see covering trim, rubber and plastics, but not edges.
 
Do you tape edges and body lines if you are going to use a DA instead of a rotary?

Do you tape edges and body lines if you are polishing and NOT compounding?
 
I have the residue problem also. I figure it comes with the territory. I just use Eraser to wipe it off.
 
Mike suggests prepping the tape by pressing the sticky side against your clothing to reduce it's stickiness.

"Burning the tape

This is when you apply the tape to your shirt or pant leg first to reduce the stickiness and then apply the tape to the paint. Kind of like how like a fresh lint roller sheet is super sticky, but as you roll it over cloths to remove lint the stickiness falls off."


Here is an entire thread dedicated to the topic

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/54320-some-buffing-questions-about-tape.html
 
allenk4 said:
Mike suggests prepping the tape by pressing the sticky side against your clothing to reduce it's stickiness.

"Burning the tape

This is when you apply the tape to your shirt or pant leg first to reduce the stickiness and then apply the tape to the paint. Kind of like how like a fresh lint roller sheet is super sticky, but as you roll it over cloths to remove lint the stickiness falls off."


Here is an entire thread dedicated to the topic

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/54320-some-buffing-questions-about-tape.html
Click to expand...

I'll try this out and see if that works:props:
 
Thanks for all the replies on tape, I knew I could count on you guys. but what about the number 2 and 3 questions?
 
Rustoleum Wax and Grease Remover was mentioned in that link. I think Ill try that. I have some polish on the black plastic that I can not get to come out, and where I mentioned first. I am leaning towards not using it except for plastic trim and borders on windows
 
I bought my Yukon used, so there was a lot of The Other Guys Wax around the Logos and lettering.

I wouldn't do it on someone else's vehicle, but I removed everything, buffed it out and reapplied using the 3M heavy duty double stick tape.

If you are going to do this; make sure and take before pictures so that you can accurately reposition the letters and logos. I also place a piece of tape below the letters to help with positioning.
 
One thing I wanted to mention about taping up on the windows. To keep the dusting from getting in the window trim moldings I find it much easier to run a second bead of tape on the windows themselves. Saves a ton of time with a brush getting down into all the cracks and crevices getting all that dust out later. :)

On the edging problem, I've run into that before as well. :doh: But I've pretty much moved to once the compounding is done I'll remove the tape so when polishing I can hit those edges and erase any that may have been a problem later on. (Still can keep tape on the upper parts of the trim, plastic trim, windows, etc., just remove it from the painted areas.)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top